Groan - running-in again... nuance vs misunderstanding?

[B-Road Explorer]

Sorry to drag this up but I hope I have a different perspective on running-in this time.

In 2008 I got my first boxer twin, a new R1200GS, and I ran it in as I interpreted the book. I stuck to the rev limit and didn't accelerate hard, but did stick to twisty B-roads and used engine-braking often. At the end of the week I'm trading it in for a new 2010 GSA and I want to do a better job of running this one in.

The controversial MotoMan method gets strong opinions both ways. I read it and ignored it last time. I've just read it again and noticed a discrepancy between what he says and what people seem to say on these threads.

Basically when people talk about it here, there are a lot of mentions of revving the engine hard. MotoMan doesn't talk much about revs, but he does talk a lot about opening the throttle wide.

Is the real key to this method that when you accelerate, you should accelerate by opening the throttle wide? If you do that, and stick reasonably close to the rev limits suggested in the BMW manual, do you get the benefits of a good gas seal - more power, better MPG, less oil consumption? Is there really a contrast between MotoMan and BMW, or just a misunderstanding by the reader?

I was looking at the manual for my 2008 again, and it doesn't mention a limit on throttle opening at all. It says to avoid placing heavy load on the engine. I'm not sure what that means. I think of load as trying to accelerate while in too high a gear (like from 30MPH in 5th). Is that load? And more importantly, is opening the throttle wide also a form of load?

In summary, I'm asking this: Is the MotoMan method just about throttle opening, and is this an independent factor from revs? For extra merit, what does engine-braking have to do with this stuff?

Let the fun begin At least I didn't ask which oil to use

 

[Account removed]

Sorry to drag this up but I hope I have a different perspective on running-in this time.

In 2008 I got my first boxer twin, a new R1200GS, and I ran it in as I interpreted the book. I stuck to the rev limit and didn't accelerate hard, but did stick to twisty B-roads and used engine-braking often. At the end of the week I'm trading it in for a new 2010 GSA and I want to do a better job of running this one in.

The controversial MotoMan method gets strong opinions both ways. I read it and ignored it last time. I've just read it again and noticed a discrepancy between what he says and what people seem to say on these threads.

Basically when people talk about it here, there are a lot of mentions of revving the engine hard. MotoMan doesn't talk much about revs, but he does talk a lot about opening the throttle wide.

Is the real key to this method that when you accelerate, you should accelerate by opening the throttle wide? If you do that, and stick reasonably close to the rev limits suggested in the BMW manual, do you get the benefits of a good gas seal - more power, better MPG, less oil consumption? Is there really a contrast between MotoMan and BMW, or just a misunderstanding by the reader?

I was looking at the manual for my 2008 again, and it doesn't mention a limit on throttle opening at all. It says to avoid placing heavy load on the engine. I'm not sure what that means. I think of load as trying to accelerate while in too high a gear (like from 30MPH in 5th). Is that load? And more importantly, is opening the throttle wide also a form of load?

In summary, I'm asking this: Is the MotoMan method just about throttle opening, and is this an independent factor from revs? For extra merit, what does engine-braking have to do with this stuff?

Let the fun begin At least I didn't ask which oil to use

The new motor is simple to run in, if you go by the book, I think not sure the first 200 miles at 5000 revs (could be 4000) then every 200 miles up a 1000 revs. first service has to be done at 600-800 miles.

 

[Dainese Brave]

I'm still running in my 2010 Gsa...

....I've been a little harder on acceleration with this one....

....but if you read the 2010 manual on running in it says (off the top of my head) up to 5,500 revs for the first 200-400kms, then 6,500 after that, up to 1000kms where you can use full throttle.

Even if I'm not exactly accurate with the time durations, the rev limits still allow 'brisk' acceleration from the off. I've kept within the guidlines, but not been afraid to do overtakes, or accelerate out of corners/roundabouts..and still be within the tolerances I'm sure.

The manual also suggests running it in on hilly terrain......try doing that in Norfolk!

By 'labouring' the engine they mean being in too high a gear and using the torque of the engine to drive it to the correct revs..something you shouldn't ever really do IMHO..better to knock it down a gear and keep the revs higher, and make the engine do the work.

....what I mean by this is, for example, coming to a bend, you're in third, brake, pull the clutch in a little, then accelerate out of the corner..the engine will 'chug' through the corner using the torque, under 'load' as it needed more revs.

....if you go into the same corner and go into second, the engine will be doing the work, and will 'drive' out of the corner, using the higher revs.

In short...I think you can ride the bike pretty much as you would in normal conditions straight from the box...with just an amount of caution when you first start, as you are not only on a new engine you're also on new tyres and brakes too.
Don't be excessive with the acceleration, don't thrash it, but be brisk, but with half a mind you've not got full throttle just yet.

Just my 2p's worth.

...and as for the is it revs or full throttle that this Motorman is on about?...I personally think he means using all the revs (therfore full throttle), ie hard acceleration.

.....when the engine is 'labouring', you could give the bike full throttle to try and power it through it...but it wouldn't be 'full revs'..just searching harder for them

Hope that helps....not makes things worse.

 

[Tartan Terror]

Why do you want to do a 'better job' this time? Was there anything wrong with your engine after your last attempt?

Turn computer off and get out and ride the thing.

 

[Dainese Brave]

Why do you want to do a 'better job' this time? Was there anything wrong with your engine after your last attempt?

Turn computer off and get out and ride the thing.

Good point ....but I do sympathise...

....I didn't feel I ran my 06 Gsa in 'correctly'..or as good as I should have (maybe it was the lack of hills )....but mine went for 4 years without one problem, used a little bit of oil at the start, but got better.

So like I said, I'd just ride it briskly from the off, you won't do it any harm, just don't thrash it, or full acceleration just yet.

 

[GADGET]

I finished running mine in yesterday, went to look at Redcaps panniers, chose a route which would keep me as far as possible off main roads, so I would not frighten/inconvenience anyone else, once the engine was warmed up, used the lower gears , mainly 2/3/4th to keep the Revs in the upper revs band, the last 50miles or so occasionly up to the red line. Not how I would normally ride it of course, but I want it bedded in properly and prior to this last ride I had changed the oil. Checked the oil when I got back (and during the ride) and the level had not moved. Have I done a good job.... time will tell.

 

[stolzy]

Do you really think you can do it better than the manual suggests - better in the sense that you would able to tell the difference?

I can guarantee one way to improve your biking experience






Get out and ride the bloody thing!

 

[davnjud]

I think working but not labouring or over revving the engine is good. For me this meant up and down lots of steep hills in low gears. The downhil part is good because the loads are reversed ie the piston and other rotating parts rubs hardest on the other side to normal acceleration. my 2010 used 300 ml in first 400 miles while I was running it in and hasn't used a drop since. Avoiding labouring, constant speed , and overrevving when still tight ie up to 200 miles is what felt best for me and I am very happy with the resulting power, smoothness and oil consumption. IMO the rev limits in the running guide are very generous - I rarely use these now in 'normal' riding.

also ignore the 'having a pop because i can safely behind my screen merchants' - when you get a new bike running in is all thats on your mind which is why it comes up so often on here and IMHO is worth giving people the space to discuss.

 

[Engineer]

Go by the book - anything else is just B.S.

 

[Edventure]

Here we go again.........

As I see it you have two choices;

1. Run it in as the handbook suggests.

2. Use another technique for running it in (such as Motorman)

I reckon it's a very personal choice, I've run in 4 bikes using the Motorman technique, each bike has run very smoothly and used little or no oil during the time I've owned them.

BUT, at the end of the day it's your call

 

[Fanum]

Go by the book - anything else is just B.S.

The book is B.S arse covering designed for mechanical idiots and written by corporate lawyers aiming to get the fewest problems possible...it doesn't in any way mean that it's necessarily the best way of doing it

 

[Steptoe]

Just vary the engine revs and load. Worse thing you can do is hold it at constant revs.

 

[Dainese Brave]

Just vary the engine revs and load. Worse thing you can do is hold it at constant revs.

In a nutshell!

 

[pistonbrokescooby]

my first gs used loads of oil first 10000,ran in real carefull.
moto mans method second gs ,uses no oil at all.
motor needs loading ,big hills and open throttle.

 

[littleredrooster]

Mine was run-in as per MotoMan.

Once warmed up, fairly short bursts of high loads but not revved to death, never held at a constant throttle.

It's the only GS which I have owned that hasn't used any oil at all between services, and the engine is extremely smooth and grunty.

 

[GSmonkey]

If you're changing your bike every two years I wouldn't bother running it in

 

[Engineer]

Just vary the engine revs and load. Worse thing you can do is hold it at constant revs.

Exactly! just like the book says

 

[SKON]

Any use? http://www.ashonbikes.com/node/620:nenau

 

[topbanana]

http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/runin.htm

 

[roddy]

Any use? http://www.ashonbikes.com/node/620

[URL="http://www.ashonbikes.com/node/620" ][/URL]

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