Ground loop Quest / Autocom

robb

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I've just fitted a "3.5mm Minijack Ground Loop Isolator / Noise Filter RCA" from ebay rather than the autocom filter and can't recommend it enough.

It was only £8, completely removes the ground loop buzz with minimal loss of volume. I can actually hear the Quest instructions at 70mph with earplugs fitted.

The autocom part works but I found it reduced the volume to such an extent that I could only hear rhe Quest at 30/40 mph. I also found that the input port was a little hit and miss and quite frequently had to reseat the input cable.

Rob
 
I've just fitted a "3.5mm Minijack Ground Loop Isolator / Noise Filter RCA" from ebay rather than the autocom filter and can't recommend it enough.

It was only £8, completely removes the ground loop buzz with minimal loss of volume. I can actually hear the Quest instructions at 70mph with earplugs fitted.

The autocom part works but I found it reduced the volume to such an extent that I could only hear rhe Quest at 30/40 mph. I also found that the input port was a little hit and miss and quite frequently had to reseat the input cable.

Rob

yea i think some have a different ratio in the windings.... plus the price is a lot cheaper than the autocom part
post a link to the item you used
 
Rob does this supress the schhhhhhhhhhhhhh noise you get in the background when playing music throhg an Ipod?
 
Rob does this supress the schhhhhhhhhhhhhh noise you get in the background when playing music throhg an Ipod?

Ask me one on sport :augie

If you're powering your IPOD and Autocom from the bike then possibly.
Google "ground loop" and see if you've got one. It occurs when two devices use the same power source (bike battery) but are earthed at different points.
My Quest uses the front socket and the Autocom the one under the seat.
 
Ground Loop

Robb, Great post I have ordered one of these cables. Out of curiosity do you also use the automcom bluetooth connection as well?
 
An Autocom official wrote this comment concerning Isolation cables. I quote,

"The main reason someone blows their accessories (or Autocom) is normally because they fail to understand the importance of using ISOLATION leads when BOTH the Autocom and the accessory are bike powered.

If your accessory runs on its own batteries, and you also use separate batteries in your Autocom, you can connect your accessory to your Autocom using a standard hard wired lead, because each device has its own independent isolated power supply.

If either device is run on internal batteries, and the other device is bike powered, you can still use a standard hard wired interface lead, because each device still has its own (independent and so isolated from each other) power supplies.

If BOTH your accessory and Autocom are bike powered, it means that they now share a common earth point (the bikes battery) and so now you have to be very careful not to use standard hard wired interface leads between your accessory and Autocom, because you will cause what’s called EARTH LOOPS (or ground loops)

Many audio devices use amplifiers that have what’s called common earth, in other words the amplifier/speaker earth is common to the power supply earth. Common earths are also particularly usual for audio inputs, to help reduce undesirable electrical interference noise. ALL Autocom Aux inputs use common earth (relative to the power supply) so that any noise picked up on the accessory leads is sunk to the power supply earth and so reduced/eliminated.

THE PROBLEM IS, that many accessories use what’s called INDEPENDENT EARTHS on their audio outputs, and while these don’t mind being connected to your Autocom if either of both devices are used with their own independent batteries, they are a problem if both devices are bike powered and you do not use isolation interface leads.

If both devices are connected to the bikes power you then create a COMMON power earth. If you now use an ordinary interface leads between the accessory and Autocom you cause the accessories audio output to become connected to its own power earth (via the standard interface lead, through the Autocom, down the Autocom power lead, to the bikes battery, back through the accessories power lead and BANG! You over heat the accessories audio amplifier until it BLOWS!

To stop this happening you HAVE to use ISOLATION leads when both your accessory and Autocom are bike powered."
 
Bit of a hijack but could one use an Autocom part 1546 to power both the Autocom and accessory "in parallel" and thereby eliminate ground loops? The max rating of 3A would have to be observed but it could also provide a switched power source (electrics are not a strong point of mine)
 
Have a mate with a Quest and who just bought an Autocom cheap now they have gone bust....

How simple is it to run a lead from Quest to Autocom? Is the Quest's output suffcient for the Autocom? One lead? Have read the above and have no idea what it's about. Derr!
 
Have a mate with a Quest and who just bought an Autocom cheap now they have gone bust....

How simple is it to run a lead from Quest to Autocom? Is the Quest's output suffcient for the Autocom? One lead? Have read the above and have no idea what it's about. Derr!

Very simple .........

Use a RAM-HOL-GA15 cradle to hold the Quest and an ACQ 35 audio pick off unit which then attaches to the cradle (35 means 3.5mm and refers to the pin size of the mono socket) You then connect the above to the Autocom with a suitable cable (the Autocom website will tell you which hole on the box to plug into)

Running on the Quest's own internal battery means no issues with ground loops and extra hardware and you should get at least 12 hours from a charge

No problems with the audio output level but be aware that the passenger and pillion volume controls on the Autocom work in the reverse sense ie clockwise for down and CCW for up
 
Interestingly, I bought one of the ebay isolators and found that it cut the volume so much I couldn't use it. I've since bought a different brand from the states which was still half the price of the autocom one, it's better but there's still a loss of volume and it takes the 'sparkle' off the music. Think I'm basically stuck with that, and make sure I turn the ipod music all the way up when it's connected.
 
robb,

Your link to the item doesn't work, is it this one?

If so, I bought one of these a couple of years ago but never got round to fitting it.

From the description you'll see it says it uses 1.3dB gain audio transformers, which suggests there is a step-up transformer in there rather than a 1:1. If you are connecting the device between the Audio lead and the Autocom (i.e. the isolator is under your seat) then, if the isolator is anything like mine, the plug/socket on the device, as supplied, are the wrong way round, what is marked as the input becomes the output and visa-versa. If this is the case then the transformer will actually be stepping down and reducing your volume slightly instead of increasing it. It is a simple matter to break the sealant on one end of the isolator and slide the PCB out to reverse the leads by desoldering/resoldering them.

If the Device is connected at the other end of the lead, i.e. between the audio lead and the audio equipment (e.g. Zumo, iPod, etc) it is not a problem.

I mention this because I have seen one or two connected the wrong way round but the users were happy with their volume levels.

Bob
 
......... ALL Autocom Aux inputs use common earth (relative to the power supply) so that any noise picked up on the accessory leads is sunk to the power supply earth and so reduced/eliminated.

THE PROBLEM IS, that many accessories use what’s called INDEPENDENT EARTHS on their audio outputs......

Good post beemerboy9, and reminded me that I never did connect the Isolator between my Zumo and Autocom. I was going to check whether the Zumo audio output was a common earth or not but never got round to it. If it is a common earth i shouldn't need to bother with the isolator. Does anybody here know how the Zumo Audio output earth is configured?

Bob
 
Interestingly, I bought one of the ebay isolators and found that it cut the volume so much I couldn't use it. I've since bought a different brand from the states which was still half the price of the autocom one, it's better but there's still a loss of volume and it takes the 'sparkle' off the music. Think I'm basically stuck with that, and make sure I turn the ipod music all the way up when it's connected.

See my previous post regarding the plugs/sockets being the wrong way round. If your eBay isolator is one of these with a 1.3dB gain then this will result in either a 35% increase, or decrease, in volume.

Bob
 
See my previous post regarding the plugs/sockets being the wrong way round. If your eBay isolator is one of these with a 1.3dB gain then this will result in either a 35% increase, or decrease, in volume.

Bob

Just had a bit of a head-desk moment. I'd had mine configured so that the isolator plugged into the headphone socket of the iphone and then the cable from the autocom plugged into the socket on the isolator. As I understand it this is the correct way for it to work, but it still cuts the volume substantially. I'll try it under the seat and see if it works.

Thanks for getting me to actually think about what the device is doing, rather than just plugging it in.

J.
 
Just had a bit of a head-desk moment. I'd had mine configured so that the isolator plugged into the headphone socket of the iphone and then the cable from the autocom plugged into the socket on the isolator. As I understand it this is the correct way for it to work, but it still cuts the volume substantially. I'll try it under the seat and see if it works.

Thanks for getting me to actually think about what the device is doing, rather than just plugging it in.

J.

Yes, I would say that is the right way round. As I said earlier, I've not actually fitted mine to the bike, when i get home, if I have time before going away again, I'll have to try installing it at both ends of the cable (effectively reversing it) and see what the difference is.

Bob
 
On the Autocom part, its defintely the source that plugs into the isolator socket, and the short lead from the isolator into the Autocom input.

Obviously not sure how your one compares to the Autocom.

Mike
 
Very simple .........

Use a RAM-HOL-GA15 cradle to hold the Quest and an ACQ 35 audio pick off unit which then attaches to the cradle (35 means 3.5mm and refers to the pin size of the mono socket) You then connect the above to the Autocom with a suitable cable (the Autocom website will tell you which hole on the box to plug into)

Running on the Quest's own internal battery means no issues with ground loops and extra hardware and you should get at least 12 hours from a charge

No problems with the audio output level but be aware that the passenger and pillion volume controls on the Autocom work in the reverse sense ie clockwise for down and CCW for up

Thnaks As far as I know he has the Garmin cradle with the audio female jack socket as standard. I tihnk he waqs worried the volume from unit wouldn't be good enough.
 


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