GS Alternator belt change at 24k!

[Wapping]

Now I do my own servicing, I may try cutting up some plastic 2 litre milk bottles into strips of tough polyurethane plastic and use them as protective shimming under the belt whilst I tease it onto the pulleys, or maybe cut up an old thin Ikea plastic kitchen cutting board. I may also try putting the belt in a warm oven first to allow the rubber to become more pliable before fitting.

Good luck!

Seriously. I tried (only to see how easy it was) and it is a very painful process. If you end up with just one written-off cut belt (as Whatton found on his much easier to change 1150) you are not far short of half-way to the cost of the 'wonder tool'.

Not least, you may be left wondering how you are going to ride your bike the X number of miles, to buy a second - or third - replacement belt.....

Sod's Law says you are not going to have an oven around when the damned thing breaks anyway.....

This bloke's report is pretty accurate:

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=134046


Expensive? Yes.

Does it work 100%? Yes.

Will you be able to sell it on when you have finished with 1200GS ownership? Yes.

 

[Wapping]

Is it definately a requirement for the 24000 service?

I had differing opinions from two dealers, but I do remember one of them wanting £100+ to change the belt

Shep

Leave it and report back? There again, like many surveys on here, the result may not be conclusive.

£100 looks steep. I assume that includes the time removing / reinstalling the cross member of the GSA's crashbars, cleaning the residue from the old gasket, a fresh belt and the new gasket itself?

 

[Colin Brown]

Hi

Found this on GSPOT and all credit to Rdcyclist

Well, I'm a tightwad and also need immediate satisfaction so I didn't want to wait for the tool. Here's what I did on a Sunday afternoon:

1. Remove the primary spark plugs. Usually you're gonna be doing a major service when changing the belt so you'll probably have all of 'em out.

2. Remove front cover. If you've got crash bars those are gonna have to come off first.

3. A 1 5/16" socket fits the crankshaft nut. I think. You'll find out whether I'm right when you get the cover off.

4. I used a long screwdriver to pry the old belt towards the front of the bike while turning the crank with the socket/ratchet.

5. Now to the patented Mark's I'mchangingthisbelttoday workaround: In the front of the crankpulley, there are three holes about 1/4" from the outer edge. Sorta look like balancing holes but they aren't. IIRC, they are something like .15 or so in diameter. Find a drill bit that is a good fit into the holes.

5a. Fit the new belt around the alt pulley and part way onto the crank pulley. Put the socket/ratchet onto the cranknut. Then fit the shank end (the end without cutting stuff) of the drill into one of the holes inside the belt. I wore a leather glove so as not to cut my delicate hand with the cutting surfaces of the drill. Then turn the crank with the socket/ratchet, whilst holding the drill into the hole and against the belt and as easy as pie, you've changed the belt without the need for fancy tools!

It really went that easily. Surprised even me.

I've saved the old belt for long trips so I have a back up out in the hinterlands. It's also insurance against ever breaking a belt: Nothing ever breaks that you're prepared for...

 

[Wapping]

Hi

Found this on GSPOT and all credit to Rdcyclist

I've saved the old belt for long trips so I have a back up out in the hinterlands. It's also insurance against ever breaking a belt: Nothing ever breaks that you're prepared for...

That's quite neat and can see how it would work. The drill bit acts as 'stretching roller' (I am sure there's a better word) levering the belt on. I guess it lifts the belt, just enough to clear the very sharp lip of the wheel?

Good tip for the side of the road, if nothing else.

 

[Colin Brown]

Hi Wapping

Found the same thread with pics www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156210

 

[Owen Snell]

Would be simple to make a 'special tool' with a bit of round bar turned down to fit the hole, so the larger diameter section of the bar meets the outer edge of the pulley and the belt would slide on easily.

 

[Powerful Pierre]

My bikes have always been serviced at SLM . '04 1200 GS the belt was changed at 36,000 . '06 1200 GSA was told that the belt was now a lifetime item not requiring a change even at 36,000 . '08 1200 GSA only done 12,000 so far , will let you know the position in 10 months time !

 

[Pukmeister]

Good luck!

Sod's Law says you are not going to have an oven around when the damned thing breaks anyway.....

Fair comment, but the plan was to complete a quality belt change procedure inside the planned intervals without using an expensive dealer tool and not need to do a roadside repair.

Interested in the drill bit trick, might have a go.

 

[Wapping]

Fair comment, but the plan was to complete a quality belt change procedure inside the planned intervals without using an expensive dealer tool and not need to do a roadside repair.

I thought as much.

The drill bit trick will probably do for everything else.

 

[Steve E]

Just had my Gs in for its 30K service at NoG. I asked to have the Alternator belt changed at the same time and was charged £28.90. I have read that people have been quoted/charged over £100 for a job that takes 10minutes.

My advice is to book it into NoG. At their price it is not worth trying to do it yourself.


Steve

 

[Rushy]

Just an observation on keeping your 'old' belt as a spares back up . Why when a new one is just over a tenner?

I had a new one fitted a couple of weeks ago at RGM and was offered my old one . I actually thought about keep it as a spare for second then I thought NO. They are a pain to change so why go through all the pain to fit an old/used belt that will need swapping again quite quickly because you can't trust it not to go pop because its an old belt.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Okay So the Guff is that the front "rib" of the pulley will cut the belt?

The Belt is Multi groove as per the 11500 and 1150's N'est Pas?

Someone will probably cut me up on this one BUT.............

Why not start the fecker (not recommended if you are a complete eejit with mechanical equipment! Call this a disclaimer!, I've done something similar and still have my fingers you may not be so lucky!) and use a decent file and gently round the outer lip so it's not sharp???

So If one happens to be in the "wilds" one can "spin" a belt on???

 

[davegs]

Belts

A few years ago a friend was staying with me for a while having been ejected
from home, his large milage 1100 gs needed a belt change, 86000 miles on the original!! (yes true!!). We took it off and it looked like new, had a job to pursuaed him not to put it back. I changed mine on my 1150 after 36000 and it had started to shred!. So may be worth a look at 24000.
Dave (Abba fan) GS.

 

[The White Rabbit]

Mine went at 16k, however it was covered in crap inside the housing as the bike was used a bit which may have resulted in premature wear, so it is worth checking.

You can get the belt on by hand, its easy with two people, just watch fingers.

All this stuff covered in Jim Von Baden's maintenance cd he sells on advrider, svaed me a few quid.