GS-GSA fuel tank swap problems

[gingerbeemer08]

Ok, so finally got round to doing the tank swap on my GS and so far, its been a bit of a mare!
Have to swap all the internals too and having some problems with fuel leaking from the filter/ pump cap on the underside of the tank. Keeps leaking and I'm dubious about graunching up the securing nuts in case the threads sheer off.
Anyone done this before? Any hints or tips?
Is there any way to pressure test for leaks without just filling it up (and potentially wasting 30litres of fuel)?
Thanks

 

[MikeO]

Ok, so finally got round to doing the tank swap on my GS and so far, its been a bit of a mare!
Have to swap all the internals too and having some problems with fuel leaking from the filter/ pump cap on the underside of the tank. Keeps leaking and I'm dubious about graunching up the securing nuts in case the threads sheer off.
Anyone done this before? Any hints or tips?
Is there any way to pressure test for leaks without just filling it up (and potentially wasting 30litres of fuel)?
Thanks

Did you fit a new O ring to the pump plate? They have a habit of expanding when old and you'll not get a seal in that case. Don't fuel up until it's sealed!

Mike

 

[Fanum]

As Mike says, the O ring can be tricky to seal......one cheaty way around it would be to smear the tiniest layer of RTV silicone on it, but they're only a quid or two from Motorworks so unless it's urgent, best to get a new one.


Prepare the grove, maybe using a fine wire wool , so there are no paint flakes or spots of crud in it.

Take your time doing the nuts up.....lightly finger tighten the opposite edges 12 o clock and 6 o clock then go to the 3 and 9 positions then 2, 8 etc etc(I can't remember if there are actually 3 and 9s precisely, but you get my drift)

Then tweak them up in a similar fashion.....opposite sides, 3's and 9's, 2's and 8's etc etc.....it's pretty obvious it'll seat the pump/gubbins plate evenly without (hopefully) the O ring being squidged out to one side.

Hmmmm....thinking about it, I actually seated my O ring with a smear of axle grease last time I was in there.......it helped keep in in the right position as I tweaked things up slowly.

The nuts don't have to be too tight at all.....you don't weant to crush the rubber O ring, you're only trying to make a seal against it...No idea what the torque is, but it's way less than a fist ....it's probably only a one white finger or two at most, by pre-torque measures

HTH.....

 

[Sunny Jim]

graunching up the securing nuts in case the threads sheer off

As Mike says - new 'O' ring is a must!

Make sure the float is in the correct position (you should be able to work this out with the pump holes to bolts - if you know what I mean).

Torque suggested is 5Nm Ginger - did this on my 1150 years ago and sheered one of the bolts but got away with it.

I'll be changing the fuel filter on my GSA shortly and will be ignoring the suggested 5Nm using my fingers on the spanner to feel I have good purchase - you decide what you want to do but be careful.

While you're in there you might want to consider changing the petrol filter too.

Good luck!

 

[Steptoe]

Any hints or tips?

It's very very simple - You should be able to push the cover plate flat against the fuel tank with one hand before you start to tighten the nuts up.

If it's not fully flat the seal/"O"ring isn't in place properly and you'll get a fuel leak..

 

[davegs]

Seal

Make sure you coat the tank studs with copper slip this will stop the nuts rusting up and save undue force when undoing and breaking studs!.