GS1250 exhaust flap valve problems!

[schneazle weazle]

Repair 4
I took off the top cover and used a paint brush and industrial cleaner to see if corrosion and dirt in the top was possibly the problem-NO
undid the lock nuts on the cables and pulled them out of their slots and removed the end can to give access to the inner pivots.
I then sprayed plus gas penetrating fluid inside and out whilst pushing the valve closed and using the cable to pull it open, trying to work it into the bearings. Still stiff and I wasn't convinced it would work for long.
A BMW mechanic at Alan Jefferies told me after replacing the first set of headers that the cure for problems with the Twin Cam flap valve - was too used a socket on an extension bar as a drift on top of the valve and give it two or three good whacks with a hammer.They felt it gave a couple of thou's clearance and seemed to solve the problem.
But as this is the 4th time, I did as instructed and gave it a few softish clouts. It did seem to turn better, So I gave it two good whacks. It seems much improved!!
I am wondering if the heat expansion and top spring push-pull the valve up?
I put some copper grease on all the pivots and used WD40 to try to wash it into the bearings whilst opening and closing the valve many times. It feels freer than it has on my previous attempts. I will keep you posted about how it works long term!

hi a picture would paint a thousand words here, for the thickos like myself, not sure where to place the bar or socket for that matter.

 

[Santa-2512]

Or push it into the open position,

disconnect the cables from the actuator cam & remove and forget

 

[casbar]

Or push it into the open position,

disconnect the cables from the actuator cam & remove and forget

The rest position is open, they hardly ever stick closed (never heard of one, but bet someone has had it stick closed). If you have a 1250, the flap sticking will show an orange engine warning light on the dash. You need the flap freeing or new headers and a GS911 to cancel the warning. If you disconnect the cable but leave the servo, the servo will spin and throw the ecu warning as the spring on the top of the flap resets the servo. If you have a 1200, none of this matters as there is no visible warning on the dash. On my 1250 (on my second set of headers) if it sticks again, I will disconnect, cancel warning and fit a servo buddy.

 

[malcopopolo]

what temp do you think the flap reaches after a 30 minute spin on the bike.

Certainly hot enough to evaporate wd40, now copper grease is good for up to 1100 centigrade so may be ok? However at some point in the temp scale it is going to thin out and run...

The flap is relatively useless.