GSA-2006 Outer rear seal : Final Drive

[twizzle]

Just been out for a ride and have noticed oil around the dust cover on the final drive, (Rear Axle) searched here and found everything from “terminal destruction mate” to "easy, ten minute job!!

So, following the advice i can confirm the following....
No rear wheel play at 12/6 or 9/3....
No other leaks from the drive system
Has not been Jet Washed in my ownership

2,000 miles since last service BMW Main Agent (Previous Owner) where all oils were changed.

Removed the dust cap and wiped out the oil and cleaned the area..... Now, it looks like i can remove the spring retaining clip, (Will probably ping off, never to be seen again) pull out the seal, (I have a seal puller, and self-tappers should I need) and push a new one home.... (Just need to find something the correct diameter to balance the seating)…..replacing the clip..... Is it that simple? before i start on a journey to self-enlightenment......

Cheers

 

[Spout]

Yes.

Use the old seal to push the new one home.

Using the old specified amount of oil in the FD can cause seals to leak (no breather). BM reduced amount to170cc (??? - please check).
Ask whoever changed the FD oil what amount they used.

 

[Pukmeister]

+1 for suspected overfilling of the FD oil. Not enough room left for expansion when hot, FD pressurises and forces oil film past the seals. Mine did it years ago before they decided to reduce the level.

 

[twizzle]

Stupid question..... Can I do this without draining the oil from the FD??... Bit like a fork seal? Or do I need to drain off the oil first?

 

[twizzle]

Found some old 2006/2007 threads... Looks like it's easy enough and no need to drain oil if bike on side stand... Result!

 

[doyle]

Found some old 2006/2007 threads... Looks like it's easy enough and no need to drain oil if bike on side stand... Result!

As you have found ,there is minimal leakage of final drive oil when changing the seal. I replaced the one on my GSA and changed the oil in the final drive just to be safe.However in hindsight it probably wasn't needed.I put 190 in mine ,Original Factory was 220.
Was the final drive oil changed at the service? If not its easy and worth doing even just to lube the coupling along with changing the oil.

 

[Pukmeister]

A pity I'm in Gravesend all week, otherwise it's probably quicker to pop over and sort it for you than try to explain in words how to.

 

[spm0912]

Having just changed the FD oil on my 2012 TC and refilled with the recommended 180cc. Can someone please confirm that the later bikes have a breather so no need to reduce the oil content. Thanks

 

[twizzle]

Big thanks to all those who helped/offered help, and to the OP who posted in 2006! Can't remember who you where!

A quick £14.21 to Bahnstormers in Alton, a nose at the R9T in the sowhroom, a sniff round the WCGSA and home ... dust cover off..... pingy thing out without "pinging off" two self tapers in the old seal, quick tug, out she comes, clean rag wipe round.... centre new seal, place old seal over the top, piece of wood over old seal and gently tap home..... Pingy thing back in.... dust cover on.... test ride with rag and phone in my pocket..... check every ten minutes for a quick 30 minute ride.... job done!!

 

[Bendy toy]

Having just changed the FD oil on my 2012 TC and refilled with the recommended 180cc. Can someone please confirm that the later bikes have a breather so no need to reduce the oil content. Thanks

After reading Patzx threads about premature needle roller wear in his (admittedly older model) final drive, I'm quite happy to use at least 200ml even if it does risk an oil leak.

I've never seen a seal damaged by too much oil just clean up the dribble and drop the level a little. Seals however do get damaged by knackered bearings.


Sent from my phone with mangled spelling