GSA GPS Mount

[Jon P]

I tried several options to fit the Garmin to my GSA - including Ram and Touratech. In my opinion all looked crap. The Touratech one is too big & clumsy and the Ram one is too crude.

I bought the BMW mount that clamps to the top bar - very very neat. To this I bolted teh Garmin bike mount and I made my own power lead again with the Garmin lead soldered to the BMW plug that goes down near the headstock that you can get as a spare part.

The BMW mount is very secure - I gave travelled many miles at high speed (80+) off road on the logging roads of Northern Maine.

I have to say, in my experience (18 years on GSs) the BMW stuff just works - they fit, they work, job done.

 

[GSmonkey]

Had a look at the OEM mount on the test bike I've just ridden. Looks simple and robust. Can't cost a lot, as the dealer agreed to supply one for nowt. Much better than the whole Touratech setup which looks complex and way OTT.

 

[Shrek]

My Zumo is mounted pretty much the same as the photo's earlier. It works well. The only thing I want to change is to wire it to the ignition, not direct to the battery.

I tried to get dealers to sell me a cable that would 'plug' in easily and give a watertight seal. They all seem to clam up or tell me they don't have such thing available.

I asked the question when my GSA had it's first service this weekend, and the nice man from Oxford BMW got me a cable from the store and charged me £7 for it.

All I need to do now is wire it in.

If you want to know the BMW part number, I still have the bag.

 

[custard]

half the price of touratech

Have a look at these two sites, they do everything to mount all sorts of GPS and at half the cost of Touratech. Just as an example there is a bar reducer that they sell for about £1.50, Touratech almost £5, the same thing.

http://www.gpsw.co.uk/

http://www.ram-mount-uk.com/

 

[Brian ROSEN]

GPS Mounting

I have to agree that GPS warehouse seem to be less expensive and very efficient. I was told that the Ram mounts were rather lightweight (hence the price) and tend to vibrate. The GPS is a hefty box to hang on your screen support and I was advised to buy an (expensive) Motorrad Concepts mount that works VERY well. Unfortunately they went bust - but surely someone else can supply something similar?

 

[Stujw70]

I have to agree that GPS warehouse seem to be less expensive and very efficient. I was told that the Ram mounts were rather lightweight (hence the price) and tend to vibrate. The GPS is a hefty box to hang on your screen support and I was advised to buy an (expensive) Motorrad Concepts mount that works VERY well. Unfortunately they went bust - but surely someone else can supply something similar?

Have a read of this thread, you will find Migsel now makes the MC mounts as mentioned above.

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126712

 

[kKop]

Not a Garmin, but works for me (and they're only about $150 right now):

TomTom ONE with RAM mount and bar clamp:

 

[custard]

Hi kKop

I also run a tomtom one on a ram mount, I just have to place a small waterproof bag over it when it rains.

Did you take your power straight from the battery.

 

[MIKE R]

Unfortunately no pictures of my mount at the moment, but this is what works for me....

My bike is an 07GSA with the fog light switch attached to the h'bar clamps. I removed two of the bolts that hold the switch on and replaced them with 2 longer ones. These longer bolts hold on a handlebar ram mount with the U bar removed. An arm then takes the cradle away from the clocks etc and it all plugs into an extra aux socket in the same place as was standard on the 1150GSA.

My GPS is a Quest and I suffer no vibration. The entire unit can be set up on the bike in about 30 secs and removed in 10 for safe storage.

The reason I don't use the hidden BM socket under the headstock is that I have 2 bikes, both fitted with the same size aux socket.

Hope that makes sense!

Mike

 

[kKop]

Hi kKop

I also run a tomtom one on a ram mount, I just have to place a small waterproof bag over it when it rains.

Did you take your power straight from the battery.

I butchered my wife's motorola cell phone charger , destroyed the 12V plug to free the guts that step the voltage down from 12V to 5V, and then soldered that to the bmw 'repair cable', Covered it with shrink tubing, then plugged into the switched canbus connection by the handlebars.

Works great! I have the TT set to switch off when it loses power, and the canbus switches off about 20 seconds after I turn off the bike.

 

[custard]

kKop

Could you explain that again, how did you get power, how do you reduce the power from 12v to 5v. the lead that you used, is that a house mains charger, or a car cigarette lighter one.

Does that then plug straight into the TomTom.

if you have any more pics that would be great.

 

[kKop]

kKop

Could you explain that again, how did you get power, how do you reduce the power from 12v to 5v. the lead that you used, is that a house mains charger, or a car cigarette lighter one.

Does that then plug straight into the TomTom.

if you have any more pics that would be great.

Sorry, no pics of the butchering job

Here's what you need to do:

- buy a car cell phone charger that ends in a mini-usb plug.

The car supplies 12V to the plug, and at the mini-usb end it's 5V, so it follows that the voltage is stepped down somehow. Usually, this is done by a component built into the plug. So:
- Open the plug
In the one I used, there was a small chip that was wired to the plug and to the cable. I freed the wires from the plug to the chip by touching them with a hot soldering iron. Then:
- Remove the chip (which is now only connected on one side, to the mini-usb cable)
- goto your nearest BMW dealer and order this part:
PN 83300413585 Description REPAIR CONNECTOR-3 P

It's a little three-wire cable that has a connector on one end and three wires at the other that plugs into the canbus connector by the handlebar. Wire one and three are ground and hot, wire two is not used.
- solder wire one and three to the chip you removed from plug earlier, in place of the wires that you removed from chip.
- Cover the exposed parts with shrink tubing or electrical tape

That's it. The mini-usb end in the TT ONE, the other end with the BMW connector in the canbus connection, and you're in business.

 

[kKop]

kKop

Could you explain that again, how did you get power, how do you reduce the power from 12v to 5v. the lead that you used, is that a house mains charger, or a car cigarette lighter one.

Does that then plug straight into the TomTom.

if you have any more pics that would be great.

Sorry, no pics of the butchering job

Here's what you need to do:

- buy a car cell phone charger that ends in a mini-usb plug.

The car supplies 12V to the plug, and at the mini-usb end it's 5V, so it follows that the voltage is stepped down somehow. Usually, this is done by a component built into the plug. So:
- Open the plug
In the one I used, there was a small chip that was wired to the plug and to the cable. I freed the wires from the plug to the chip by touching them with a hot soldering iron. Then:
- Remove the chip (which is now only connected on one side, to the mini-usb cable) and discard plug
- goto your nearest BMW dealer (or online) and order this part:
PN 83300413585 Description REPAIR CONNECTOR-3 P

It's a little three-wire cable that has a connector on one end and three wires at the other that plugs into the canbus connector by the handlebar. Wire one and three are ground and hot, wire two is not used.
- solder wire one and three to the chip you removed from plug earlier, in place of the wires that you removed from chip.
- Cover the exposed parts with shrink tubing or electrical tape

That's it. The mini-usb end in the TT ONE, the other end with the BMW connector in the canbus connection, and you're in business. Switches on and off (with a slight delay) with bike.

 

[Saw Doctor]

Yes and yes. And as a picture is worth a thousand words ..... What you get is the lever and the shiny metal bit that will allow a Garmin 4 hole mount or BM Nav 2 / 3 and maybe even 1 to bolt onto it.

John, would you have a part number for the mount, that would be great, Thanks

 

[Westy]

As above please !

 

[prop]

price £30.50 part number 71 607 7 699 082

Prop

 

[THE DOCTOR]

I made my own..

Here!