Head Races

[Redboots]

A bit of advice/help from them that know would be appriciated:

Just replaced the head bearings and reassembled the forklegs to yokes, inserted axle.
No handlebars cables/wires mounted.

I have done the initial adjustment to the head bearings.

Now, grasping the axle and push/pulling, there is some play but it seems to come from the leg. Would I be right in assuming that the fork must be under an amount of compression before you can decide that the fork bushes are u/s?

Thank you.

John

 

[Rob Farmer]

Theres only one small bush in the forks

I'd ask Steptoe.

The bush is part no3 on the drawing:

 

[Redboots]

I'd ask Steptoe.

Steptoe?


John

 

[Rob Farmer]

Steptoe?


John

The font of all knowledge on all things BMW. Neil has his own BMW workshop in London. Despite being a Southerner he's really helpfull and knows what he's talking about

PM him from any of the sticky links on the Technical section or anywhere else you see his postings. http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81991

 

[Redboots]

The font of all knowledge on all things BMW....PM him from any of the sticky links

Will do. Thanks.

John

 

[dustmuncher]

There are two bushes in the fork assembly Rob, one is located at the top of the slider as you indicated the other is at the bottom end of the chrome tube or staunchion (please excuse the spelling).

John if you want to know where the play is, pull the sliders off and grab the tubes and give them a shake. assuming the triple tree clamps are all tight any play would indicate the bearings are loose, no play would indicate the movement is between the slider and tube.

Incidently how did you get the cups out of the the steering head on the frame?

Jon S

 

[Redboots]

Incidently how did you get the cups out of the the steering head on the frame?Jon S

Thanks Jon.

I used a long "L" shaped drift that I already had.
Just ground it up so I could get a bite on cup and tapped away... with a dirty great hammer

Not easy though! and I did acually bugger the thread up on the aduster nut. A new nut cost me €61 here in France

John

 

[dustmuncher]

I'm having a bugger of a time getting the two cups out of the steering head. The current tool in question is a much modified tyre lever which I have yet to grind just right so it doesn't just pop out of the groove. I had a local M/C mechanical remove the race off the lower triple clamp and they managed to burr the stem thread (M22 x 0.75). Guaranteed to give the wallet hysterics to get that fixed. Ended up using a 0.75mm thread file made by Snap-On to get out of trouble.

Thanks for the tip.

Jon S

 

[Tarka]

Although the headraces seem a bugger to get at in the headstock,it only needs a long bar (old engine bolts can be ideal) that has the end ground sufficiently to allow the bar to sit at an angle inside the headstock....and with a bit of a lip on the tip to locate the race.

Another, slightly 'rougher' and time consuming way ,is to use a Dremel with a cutting wheel to split the bearing race so it`s a doddle to knock or pull out.

Alternatively....and done in seconds.....tack weld a bit of bar across the inner face of the bearing race.
Often just the thermal shock is enough for the race to fall out of the bottom of the headstock.

 

[Rob Farmer]

I've heard the best way is to use a Dremel, or similar, with a small grinding wheel, cut a slot and then whack it with a hammer, apparently, the bearing shatters. I haven't tried it though. You will need safety glasses.

 

[Tarka]

I've heard the best way is to use a Dremel, or similar, with a small grinding wheel, cut a slot and then whack it with a hammer, apparently, the bearing shatters. I haven't tried it though. You will need safety glasses.

It does indeed shatter,Rob