Heavy Metal around Mongolia and Central Asia

single best thread i have EVER read!!! simply amazing what you guys have done

Think a trip like this would be possible on one bike 2up?? Maybe minus the tricky sand stuff??

Its soo fuel for thought and gettin a bank loan and just doing it!!! :clap

Definately possible two up but uprate your suspension and go:thumb
 
Fabulous adventure and I loved the photo quality and framing, very professional looking.
Another place to go to on my list of "do before I die"

JB
 
"Jagshemash! My name a Borat. I like you. I like sex, it's nice. These are my country of a Kazakhstan."

And I guess that's all most of us know about Kazahkstan but of course there's a whole lot more....the Aral Sea catastrophe, stunningly beautiful women of Almaty, police corruption at it's very best, the worst tarmac roads anywhere, incredible generosity of the rural people.....

Kazakhstan is a vast country and relatively empty.
During the Cold War it was conveniently far from Moscow also from the eyes of the west.
So, a great place to carry out 460 nuclear tests just west of the city of Semey, never mind the population of that region who are still, and will continue to suffer the consequences.

It was near here that we entered Kazakhstan.
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Pete and I stop in Semey, a man with snot running across his face wearing a worn shiny suit and broken spectacles talks with us in English as I find a shop and buy us a cream cake.
Inevitably he asks for money...for vodka. A nasty looking woman approaches, he's begging on her patch, she kicks then punches him in the face breaking what was left of his glasses and spreading the snot into his eyes.

"Let's go" I say to Pete, and we hit the road.
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We meet some British riders at a cafe, they're going all the way to Magadan.
My thoughts return to Siberia and to how much we haven't seen.
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I had been warned to take care, particularly in the north where people could be hostile and dangerous.
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We found the opposite to be true.
Stopping at a cafe for coffee and a pack of biscuits, cars stop the occupants jump out take photos of themselves with our bikes and leave with a wave.
This girl from the cafe asks us to wait before leaving.
Why?
Pete and I are unsure.
She returns with a big bag of donuts for a our journey.

They say it's Kazakh tradition to give a passing traveller your last sheep.
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At another family run cafe, we help the girl who is learning English.
As we leave, her father gives me an old wood and leather horse whip, beacause I guess he needed to give something.
How different to our own societies.
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The open land of Kazakhstan makes it difficult to find secluded camp sites.
Hmmm better not try here even as a last resort:eek:
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So let's have a look down here.
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A perfect place to sit amongst the sweet smelling herbs and........
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...watch the sun set.
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Then wake for another day on the road.
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At another camp we all have our first wash for several days in the river.

Almaty gets closer and for Baz that means the possiblity of getting his bike back on the road.
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With the tents pitched right next to the river we're a target for viscious biting insects and a sleepless night as hundreds of very loud frogs croak their way to dawn:mad:
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A family come to the river at dawn to wash their car and picnic.
One man, part Cherokee, is a writer and gives Pete a copy of his book.
Despite our protestations they insist on giving us the food from their picnic even though we've already had breakfast.
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In brilliant sunshine Pete and I ride a great road south eventually to the outskirts of Almaty and wait for the Landrover.

In the city we get lost, probably through watching the hoards of beautiful women instead of the road, then get lost again.:rolleyes:

It's very hot, the bikes are overheating and we're getting pissed off.:mad:

A bus scrapes my pannier, Pete's outraged and kicks the bus,:D it swerves into him, he topples and falls. The driver, also outraged jumps out of the bus ready to lay into Pete.:eek:
Now Pete's a great guy but when he's pissed off it's best keep out the way, luckily the driver saw this as Pete ran towards him so beat a hasty retreat to his cab and sped off.:clap

Almaty's road network is a grid system with few obvious landmarks in the city to orientate yourself. Just about every car tooted and waved as we negotiated our first heavy traffic for a very long time.
We eventually find a hotel where we can sort the bikes out, sort this and sort that before heading to Kyrgystan and Tajikistan where the Pamir mountains await us.

The staff are just like grumpy Russians at first but after a couple of days they were almost human. So it's up to our room a cold beer and view[the backdrop of the Zailiyshy Alatau mountains over the rooftops of this leafy city.:beer:
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Many in Almaty knew of two other motorcyclists with a rather bigger budget and celebrity status who passed this way a couple of of years ago, they asked if I knew 'him'. "Ewan who"? I'd reply.

They also asked my opinions on the film Borat since the government take an extremely dim view of it, but Almaty is a modern city and it's young people appear to be very liberal minded.

Talking of young people, Rick shaves and leaves his moustache which is blackened with a felt pen to fit in with the locals....you like? :D
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Good to have you back Tim, have been missing your report.
Keep it coming young handsome chap.
 
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A visit to the DHL office and we learn Baz's parts are held in customs, the receptionist is very pretty, Baz works his charm and she gets them for him.

She also leaves a letter and email address, good lad.;)

You can see the broken bolt and paralever.
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So let's take it off then.
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Now we're getting that smile back:)
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A joint effort, Baz brings me coffee, I fix his bike it's a good deal.
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You can't rush these things so it's time to roll a smoke.
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Clean up a bit and fit the new one:thumb2
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The rear sub frame is also cracked just as mine had been.

The hotel maintainance guy who must be in his 80's has a welder.
Careful preparation with an audience he prepares to weld.....the rod was flapping like Andre Previn's baton on speed, our 'technician' disappears to his shed for a large glug of vodka, returns and begins melting Baz's bike but at least it's fixed.

Then it's time to start her up.....the battery's flat :blast
We sort it and Baz races up and down the street like a kid with a new toy, his gratitude was humbling but I was as pleased as he.
Rick too, now he could have his own space back in the Landrover and munch biscuits without guilt :D:thumb

That night we eat, drink, and drink, Baz is up for anything:blast
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Our Tajikistan visa has been issued for the wrong dates so we get a taxi to the consulates place...at least we thought we had.

Possibly the most beautiful woman any of us had ever seen came to our assistance.
We explain with great politeness our predicament whilst trying desperately not to look down her cleaveage.;)

She listens with patience as we grovel our way toward a new visa before informing us that in fact we are at the Liberian consulate.:blast

We retreat to the taxi with tail between our legs all vowing to ride to Liberia:bounce1

Eventually the taxi driver finds the right place but we'll have to get our paperwork in Biskek, Kyrgystan.

Q. What's the differance between a thieving, robbing smug b*stard and a Kazakhstan policeman?
A. One wears a blue uniform:mad:

A great ride west from Almaty was rudly interupted at a police and military checkpoint. With machine guns weilded and cops armed we three riders are marched into a room where a fat b*stard is seated behind a desk.
He says we were speeding.
We were not!
It's $100 each to get our license back.

From that moment on I never gave my real license to anyone just one of the fakes I'd made at home.;)

So it was with a bitter taste in our mouths that we left what had been an intersting and friendly country but consoled ourselves that cops the world over can do that to you one way or another.

Anyway, feck 'em we're going to Kyrgystan next:clap
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Good to have you back Tim, have been missing your report.
Keep it coming young handsome chap.

Ha ha ha
Thanks for your edit Tim, your modesty is quite overwelming.
If these women are so beautiful, where are the hot totty pics, or is it just your imagination:augie
 
Ha ha ha
Thanks for your edit Tim, your modesty is quite overwelming.
If these women are so beautiful, where are the hot totty pics, or is it just your imagination:augie

I'm generally too shy with the camera as you know after seeing my phone, but this was later in Turkey for your imagination...take your pick:kissy2
 

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Glad to see that your high standards have not slipped since we last met. Something l still hope to maintain when l reach your age:augie
I am also pleased to hear you still have your phone, it must have been of great comfort to you alone in your tent for 3 months.
 
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Over the border into Kyrgyzstan we soon arrive in Bishkek, visas are sorted ......and I change a rear bevel box oil seal on Baz's bike:comfort

Leaving town Rick has his credit card swallowed by a machine whilst I'm interviewed on local TV.

They want know about our trip and the state of roads and safety in Kyrgyzstan, in particular Bishkek.

We haven't been in the country long so can only give my views on the capital. I explain the main danger comes from not being able to keep your eyes on the road as the women on the pavement are so distracting.:augie

Kyrgyzstan has had a unsettled past with 300 people losing their lives through 'ethnic violence' in 1990, followed by a shrinking economy and trouble again only around 10 years ago.

Despite this, it's a wonderful country and one where I'd love to spend more time. :thumb2

Although technically illegal since 1991, the traditional way for a man to find a bride was to kidnapp her.
With Kyrgyz women demanding a 'bride price' the abduction method is continuing again since it considerably reduces the costs of getting married.:D

Into the mountains.
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Once over the Dolon Pass we drop to the lovely high meadows.
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We ride through a wide green valley and pass hundreds of horsemen who'd been competing at a national event. The horse is still of great importance here.
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Aside from political unrest, another Soviet era legacy has been left in this beautiful country.

Uranium was mined here and up to 50 abandoned mines leak unstabilised nasties into the ground water.
In 1998 2 tonnes of cyanide and sodium hydrochloride was spilled into the Barskoon River which feeds Issyk-Kol leaving a trail of human and animal devastation.

Kyrygzstan is a mountainous country. Dwindling grazing has lead to foreign plant invasion whilst around villages the land is overgrazed, leading to degradation and soil erosion.

The potential for hydro electricity is vast and with it, change.
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