easyman05
Registered user
well, Tim you puzzled me - I was sure the Kaz cops press money out of Russian travellers only.
Did they remember the LWR "stars" paid too?
Did they remember the LWR "stars" paid too?
Heavy Metal around Mongolia and Central Asia
- Thread starter Timolgra
- Start date
I like to sample the local brews so here I stop and buy a big bottle of kymys, it's fermented mare's milk.
Later that evening, Pete did take a photo of me having my first swig but think I spat most of it over his camera.
First impressions are a cross between baby vomit and sour milk, second impression after swallowing was the same, in fact so was the fourth and fifth.
This is the national drink after all so tried hard to find the attraction....but failed.
Over another high pass.
We tumble down and down a twisting valley road with a roaring river at our side.
The road was better than anything I've ridden in the Alps or elsewhere, so good in fact that we couldn't break the rythmn to stop and take photos.
It was getting late, thunder clouds were building and we'd ridden a few miles of narrow tracks trying to find a campsite eventually stopping here.
My bottle of kymys is beside the tent and we retreat just as a fantastic thunder and lightening storm hits.
I take a few more swigs from the bottle but give and just watch the storm.
We break camp in the morning and head up higher into the mountains.
Later that evening, Pete did take a photo of me having my first swig but think I spat most of it over his camera.
First impressions are a cross between baby vomit and sour milk, second impression after swallowing was the same, in fact so was the fourth and fifth.
This is the national drink after all so tried hard to find the attraction....but failed.
Over another high pass.
We tumble down and down a twisting valley road with a roaring river at our side.
The road was better than anything I've ridden in the Alps or elsewhere, so good in fact that we couldn't break the rythmn to stop and take photos.
It was getting late, thunder clouds were building and we'd ridden a few miles of narrow tracks trying to find a campsite eventually stopping here.
My bottle of kymys is beside the tent and we retreat just as a fantastic thunder and lightening storm hits.
I take a few more swigs from the bottle but give and just watch the storm.
We break camp in the morning and head up higher into the mountains.
chad
Registered user
that last pic is just feckin stunning
We arrive in the ancient city of Osh to stock up on supplies.
This was the region where recent ugly and violent ethnic clashes between the Kyrgyz and Uzbeks took place.
The Uzbeks dominate business there but the Kyrgyz impose a corrupt municiple administration upon them, ripping them off at every opportunity.
We find a perfect camp with friendly people who visit and it's hard to imagine such unrest below the surface.
No sign of any clashes here.
We had asked if it was ok to camp on this grazing land, it was and the family joined us.
I laid my detailed maps out on the grass and the children gathered around and pointed out all the place names.
One of the boys only had one arm, I wondered what misfortune became him.
Always of interest, the map of our journey was pored over with tiny fingers tracing our route.
In the morning we were brought round cheese balls, they gummed your mouth up and were disgusting.
Reluctantly, I spat mine out when they had gone and felt ungrateful.
This was the region where recent ugly and violent ethnic clashes between the Kyrgyz and Uzbeks took place.
The Uzbeks dominate business there but the Kyrgyz impose a corrupt municiple administration upon them, ripping them off at every opportunity.
We find a perfect camp with friendly people who visit and it's hard to imagine such unrest below the surface.
No sign of any clashes here.
We had asked if it was ok to camp on this grazing land, it was and the family joined us.
I laid my detailed maps out on the grass and the children gathered around and pointed out all the place names.
One of the boys only had one arm, I wondered what misfortune became him.
Always of interest, the map of our journey was pored over with tiny fingers tracing our route.
In the morning we were brought round cheese balls, they gummed your mouth up and were disgusting.
Reluctantly, I spat mine out when they had gone and felt ungrateful.
Popeye
Registered user
That is a show stopper of a picture and is the very essence of proper long distance travel. Brilliant.
Wonder what the little fellas are doing right now all those miles away
bubbles
Registered user
Just finished reading this from start to finish, truly inspirational stuff Tim thanks for taking the trouble to share it with us 
.
.
Blowzorn
Registered user
Tim love your adventure. Love the photo's. Best thing that's been on here in ages.
But can you just confirm that of the the three bikes that were left on the tour 2x 1150 and 1x 1200 it was the two 1150s that needed repair.
But can you just confirm that of the the three bikes that were left on the tour 2x 1150 and 1x 1200 it was the two 1150s that needed repair.
It's time to press on south towards Sary Tash and the Tajikistan border.
Pete and Baz grab some shade at a coffee stop.
We ride through wonderful country towards the Taldyk Pass.(Edit
the Kyzyl Art Pass)
I really need to return to this part of the world.
Pete and Baz grab some shade at a coffee stop.
We ride through wonderful country towards the Taldyk Pass.(Edit
the Kyzyl Art Pass)
I really need to return to this part of the world.
Do I really need to put a caption with this!
Finally, the top of the Taldyk Pass.
A lorry had overturned on one of the hairpins, other lorries would have to wait.
We were told it's normally the Chinese drivers who get it wrong.
No problem for the bikes though.
Here we meet Kyle, an American cyclist travelling alone and a great guy who camped with us later that night.
You may have noticed I have a couple of Che Guevara stickers on my bike.
Throughout Russia and much of Central Asia it was instantly recognised even by the police and given the big thumbs up.
Kyle, was the only one to ask why I had it.
I avoided a direct answer.
One last look back at the way we'd come and it's time to drop down to Sary Tash.
Finally, the top of the Taldyk Pass.
A lorry had overturned on one of the hairpins, other lorries would have to wait.
We were told it's normally the Chinese drivers who get it wrong.
No problem for the bikes though.
Here we meet Kyle, an American cyclist travelling alone and a great guy who camped with us later that night.
You may have noticed I have a couple of Che Guevara stickers on my bike.
Throughout Russia and much of Central Asia it was instantly recognised even by the police and given the big thumbs up.
Kyle, was the only one to ask why I had it.
I avoided a direct answer.
One last look back at the way we'd come and it's time to drop down to Sary Tash.
And here it is, Sary Tash.
Situated at the convergence of three roads, ours, left for China, bear right then left for Tajikistan and.....the Pamir Mountains....YEHAA!
The others had dried bread for lunch on the pass, I waited and had a great chicken meal with Kyle and a Polish backpacker in Sary Tash..that seemed to be a problem with one of the others so I headed out to ride alone for a bit til we all cooled off.
Stop for a smoke and just chill for a while.
Situated at the convergence of three roads, ours, left for China, bear right then left for Tajikistan and.....the Pamir Mountains....YEHAA!
The others had dried bread for lunch on the pass, I waited and had a great chicken meal with Kyle and a Polish backpacker in Sary Tash..that seemed to be a problem with one of the others so I headed out to ride alone for a bit til we all cooled off.
Stop for a smoke and just chill for a while.
Rhodie
Registered user
Stunning stuff - if you don't want to add captions...
how about gps coordinates
Methinks, however, that there may be a parallel story riding solo developing here
as ever cracking stuff
But how come there are no totty pix
in this version....
or, are they only for Trippy's viewing over on the 'merican side
how about gps coordinates
Methinks, however, that there may be a parallel story riding solo developing here
as ever cracking stuff
But how come there are no totty pix
in this version....or, are they only for Trippy's viewing over on the 'merican side
A look back to Kyrgyzstan and we need to find a camp.
It's over 11,000 ft up and will be cold so won't press on to close to towards the mountains as we want the early morning sun.
We find a place and Kyle joins us.
The altitude is noticable as we pitch tent.
It's a great place to be.
A great place with your bike, your tent and some good guys.
It's cold and we're fairly high up.
Tomorrow we go to Tajikistan and the Pamir Mountains....I'm excited again.
After a very cold night we caught the early morning sun as I'd hoped and it's time to go................
It's over 11,000 ft up and will be cold so won't press on to close to towards the mountains as we want the early morning sun.
We find a place and Kyle joins us.
The altitude is noticable as we pitch tent.
It's a great place to be.
A great place with your bike, your tent and some good guys.
It's cold and we're fairly high up.
Tomorrow we go to Tajikistan and the Pamir Mountains....I'm excited again.
After a very cold night we caught the early morning sun as I'd hoped and it's time to go................
easyman05
Registered user
speechless
Tim, sorry I missed - what month was that? Sary Tash I mean? And the road is unpaved on the pass, right?
Tim, sorry I missed - what month was that? Sary Tash I mean? And the road is unpaved on the pass, right?
JALFREZI
Registered user
Having gone through your report again, l can't imagine the excitement all of you must of experienced seeing this beautiful scenery and meeting mostly very generous people for the first time, something l'm sure none of you will ever forget.
Brilliant report Tim.
l'd better start saving up for fork seals.
Brilliant report Tim.
l'd better start saving up for fork seals.
speechless
Tim, sorry I missed - what month was that? Sary Tash I mean? And the road is unpaved on the pass, right?
Yes the road is unpaved.
According to the photo of my GPS
we were there on July6th
and were lucky, this photo borrowed from ADVrider was also taken in July this year! It took the rider 3 hours to ride 12km....a GS would have taken considerably longer!!
EDIT I'd put the included the wrong photos of the Taldyk Pass which I've removed, the picture below is of the Kyzyl Art Pass on the Kyrgz/Tajik border which is next!
I took this photo with my phone whilst out on my Africa Twin this afternoon, as always I do wonder if/when I return, is this is the perfect Adventure bike?
It's certainly in a totally different league to a GS offroad even with standard suspension, but it's the long, hard road rides at speed which would be it's shortfall...(although only comparatively).
easyman05
Registered user
Yes the road is unpaved.
According to the photo of my GPS
good for you!
my Navi III+ does not indicate a date/or I do not care about it/ but now I know more about use of GPS, tnx a lot! Hope to ride there next summer. Wanted to do it this year but failed due to ride to the French and Swiss Alps instead. But the weather in August must be more predictable and stable, I guess - no sudden snow on the passes like in July.
chad
Registered user
It's certainly in a totally different league to a GS offroad even with standard suspension, but it's the long, hard road rides at speed which would be it's shortfall...(although only comparatively).
that sums up the @ perfectly tim
ive had three of them first was the RD07 followed by the RD04 and i have a very tired RD03 project in bits at the mothey do long hard runs but you just feel like your over working the bike a bit , i will always have a soft spot for them
If you had to base a trip around just one country in Central Asia then I believe it's a toss up between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan with Tajikistan coming out on top.
High altitude scenery along the 'Roof of the World' Pamir Highway, wonderful people and the stunning Wakhan Valley which it shares with Afganistan just over the river with it's views of the Hindu Kush and passing by old Silk road forts, this has to be a major highlight of any trip.
For a great ride report on the Wakhan Corridor on the Afgan side I'd recommend you also read this fantastic account http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=504942
This is our route coming from Kyryzstan.
Over the Kyzyl Art Pass to Murghab along the Pamir Highway to a few miles past the village of Alichur.
Then on a little used track south to the Pamir river, for the next few hundred miles Afganistan is just over the river.
On to Langor, Ishkashim and turn north to Khorog.
We continued north alongside the Pyanj River to Kalaikhum following the river southwest before eventually turning away from the river to Kulyab, Dushanbe and Penjikent.
High altitude scenery along the 'Roof of the World' Pamir Highway, wonderful people and the stunning Wakhan Valley which it shares with Afganistan just over the river with it's views of the Hindu Kush and passing by old Silk road forts, this has to be a major highlight of any trip.
For a great ride report on the Wakhan Corridor on the Afgan side I'd recommend you also read this fantastic account http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=504942
This is our route coming from Kyryzstan.
Over the Kyzyl Art Pass to Murghab along the Pamir Highway to a few miles past the village of Alichur.
Then on a little used track south to the Pamir river, for the next few hundred miles Afganistan is just over the river.
On to Langor, Ishkashim and turn north to Khorog.
We continued north alongside the Pyanj River to Kalaikhum following the river southwest before eventually turning away from the river to Kulyab, Dushanbe and Penjikent.
We leave our camp and head for the border.
Once through the Kyrgyzstan side there's a rough track which climbs through 'no man's land' to the Tajik border control.
It's high here and cold, a couple of the offices are old tankers from trucks with windows and doors fitted.
The soldiers bring us into the warmth of their hut where they also sleep to complete the paperwork. They give us tea and sweets.
It was only in the 1990s that a violent civil war in these parts claimed over 50,000 lives.
Once through the Kyrgyzstan side there's a rough track which climbs through 'no man's land' to the Tajik border control.
It's high here and cold, a couple of the offices are old tankers from trucks with windows and doors fitted.
The soldiers bring us into the warmth of their hut where they also sleep to complete the paperwork. They give us tea and sweets.
It was only in the 1990s that a violent civil war in these parts claimed over 50,000 lives.
