help diagnosing final drive problem please.

davidgibson999

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just back from a 1000 mile jaunt round ireland and 40 miles from home I thought I felt a knocking from the FD. Pulled over after 10 miles and oil everywhere - seems to be coming from the rear brake disc side. What's the likely problem?
 
just back from a 1000 mile jaunt round ireland and 40 miles from home I thought I felt a knocking from the FD. Pulled over after 10 miles and oil everywhere - seems to be coming from the rear brake disc side. What's the likely problem?

Oil filler plug bolt or speed sensor loose / missing?

They live behind the wheel so you will have to take the wheel off.

See here: http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141208&highlight=trot

Sounds like Blowzorn's bike on the Turkey Trot last year. A little bit of oil goes a long way.
 
Thanks.
Here are a few pictures:

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The thing is this - I was alerted by feeling a knocking or something off in the FD, not from seeing oil on the rim or feeling the bike slide from an oily tyre (although this did happen!) - if it's a case of draining what's left of the oil and topping up again and tightening up the ABS sensor/filler then great but is it likely to be that easy given that I felt a problem in FD unit itself?
Also, thought that the bike jumped out of gear a time or two but put that down to pilot error but I'm not so sure - could that be connected? When going from 5th to 6th on two occasions the gear selector showed 4th very briefly.
 
Find out where it is coming from, first.

Paraffin and a stiflish paint brush will take all the gooky oil off. It's probably got into the pads, too, though those are like cheese anyway. :D

This may well be handy: http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/reardrive.html http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/brakepads.html

I'll get cracking with the brush and paraffin tomorrow.
I've done an oil change before so I should be ok on that front. The leak does look to be centred around the fill plug though.
 
Was there any movement in the fd with the wheel fitted when you wiggled it or any grinding noise or feel? It would also be interesting to find out how much oil is left in the fd.
 
Was there any movement in the fd with the wheel fitted when you wiggled it or any grinding noise or feel? It would also be interesting to find out how much oil is left in the fd.

No movement from side to side with the wheel fitted. The bike rode fine but as I say, I was aware of some movement/knocking when riding which caused me to stop and check it out. No grinding noise.
 
Because the FD has no breather (sealed for life), if it is overfilled with oil it becomes pressurised and the oil blows out past the lip seals. Mine did this through the input pinion seal when I accidentally added 250ml of new oil rather than the required 220ml. I'd say yours has leaked past the crownwheel inner lip seal judging by your pics and I'd suspect it would be prudent to replace the seal which involves a bit of work and some special tools.

If it were my bike, I would thoroughly clean everything then degrease with an aerosol of brake cleaning solvent spray and a clean cloth. I'd then drain the FD and refill with 220ml of castrol SAF-XO oil (£15 a litre) then go for a slow short ride and stop frequently to check for leaks. If the leak is fixed, fit new brake pads ASAP. If it continues, you've wasted £15 (you haven't really as you can always use it in future) and know where you stand requiring a FD rebuild with new seals. Patzx12 on this forum rebuilt his FD, perhaps he could advise you based on his experience as he clearly knows whats involved and how difficult it is.

The knocking/clunking you experienced was most likely due to the oil loss resulting in a reduced oil film which normally providing a cushion between the crownwheel and pinion.
 
Because the FD has no breather (sealed for life), if it is overfilled with oil it becomes pressurised and the oil blows out past the lip seals. Mine did this through the input pinion seal when I accidentally added 250ml of new oil rather than the required 220ml. I'd say yours has leaked past the crownwheel inner lip seal judging by your pics and I'd suspect it would be prudent to replace the seal which involves a bit of work and some special tools.

If it were my bike, I would thoroughly clean everything then degrease with an aerosol of brake cleaning solvent spray and a clean cloth. I'd then drain the FD and refill with 220ml of castrol SAF-XO oil (£15 a litre) then go for a slow short ride and stop frequently to check for leaks. If the leak is fixed, fit new brake pads ASAP. If it continues, you've wasted £15 (you haven't really as you can always use it in future) and know where you stand requiring a FD rebuild with new seals. Patzx12 on this forum rebuilt his FD, perhaps he could advise you based on his experience as he clearly knows whats involved and how difficult it is.

The knocking/clunking you experienced was most likely due to the oil loss resulting in a reduced oil film which normally providing a cushion between the crownwheel and pinion.


Many thanks Adam. Helpful response!
 
David is there ANY movement of the brake disc carrier?

There should be but there was a batch of early bikes that had tolerance issues and consequently the wheel wobbled or clunked

Keep the pads out but refit the wheel and check for any movement?
 
Dave,

Didnt you get it rebuilt before by Brian? Any warranty on that repair?

Permission to use my "should have brought an 1150" comment. :D

Trev
 
Dave,

Didnt you get it rebuilt before by Brian? Any warranty on that repair?

Permission to use my "should have brought an 1150" comment. :D

Trev

Yes Brian did replace a seal or two in the FD August 2008.

I'll ignore your 1150 comment ;)
 


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