HELP!!! - Final Drive Oil Volume

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Fitting a new hugger, I decided to drop the final rive to grease the splines (please let's not start the "should I/shouldn't I debate again).

I then realised I have inadvertently drained the gear oil. Yes, a schoolboy error.

Can someone tell me the correct volume of oil to replace it with, please? Rider manual gives spec of oil (SAE 70W80) but not volume and I don't have workshop manual yet. Just off to Halfords...

Any tips for replacing it?

Thanks,

Q.
 
Hi
I try for 180/190mil, which is just below the "hole".
 
I did mine yesterday after my spline lube, I previously had bought off E-bay a 200ml plastic syringe to measure 180 ml of oil out. It's important to get all the oil out of the final drive through the drain plug on the bottom (incidentally there is a magnet in the recess of the drain plug that can be cleaned whilst the plug is out).
I used the syringe to refill the final drive after reconnecting the paralever arm and refitting the drain plug and wheel speed sensor, it is easier to get the oil into the final drive if you squirt it through the gap between the teeth of the crown wheel gear, only depress the plunger on your syringe SLOWLY as the oil can back up through the filler hole, you won't know how much you have spilled, and it will have to be drained again as it's import the quantity is correct. I also fitted a new 'o' ring on the drain plug and new copper washer on the filler plug.

Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk
 
If you search on You tube for
'R1200RTW 12K Mile/20KM Service Part 2/6' about 15 min into video it's all there, the videos are excellent, the bike is a 1200 RT but it's the same as the 1200 and 1250 GS/A.

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Fantastic, thanks.

Any idea of the torque settings for:-

Final drive drain plug
Final drive filler plug
Speed sensor bolt
Rear brake caliper mounting bolts

Sorry to be such a pain
 
I do beg your pardon the actual oil refill is in Part 3 of the video series (part 2 deals with stripping of the final drive for the shaft lube... there are 6 videos in total).
This Boxflyer guy is an aircraft pilot who services BMW's for a hobby, he's a older guy and very patient and thorough in his explanations, well worth a watch for anyone who is contemplating home boxer twin work.

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All torque settings.. and Torx sizes for the bolts are stated in the 6 videos series. As I mentioned an excellent production. Old doddering people are good, because they tend to know lots of interesting facts.


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I did mine to following ...
Final drive paralever bolt to
56 N/M... please note that I obtained and fitted a new M10×60mm bolt as it has micro encapsulated loctite on it. (T50)...
Final drive filler plug and new copper washer to 20 N/M (6mm allen)...
Final drive drain plug and a new
'O' ring to 20 N/M (T45)...
Rear brake caliper mounting bolts with nut lock applied to threads to 24 N/M (T40)...
Wheel sensor retaining screw to 8 N/M (T30)...
Rear wheel bolts to 60 N/M (T50)
Rear crud catcher 8 N/M (T30)..
The new paralever bolt, copper washer, and O ring were about £5 from BMW... please note that
if the paralever bolt comes loose catastrophic consequences can occur.

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All torque settings.. and Torx sizes for the bolts are stated in the 6 videos series. As I mentioned an excellent production. Old doddering people are good, because they tend to know lots of interesting facts.


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I watched the video but he omitted to give the torque settings for the drain plug and filler plug. Everything else...

Great vids though.
 
I did mine to following ...
Final drive paralever bolt to
56 N/M... please note that I obtained and fitted a new M10×60mm bolt as it has micro encapsulated loctite on it. (T50)...
Final drive filler plug and new copper washer to 20 N/M (6mm allen)...
Final drive drain plug and a new
'O' ring to 20 N/M (T45)...
Rear brake caliper mounting bolts with nut lock applied to threads to 24 N/M (T40)...
Wheel sensor retaining screw to 8 N/M (T30)...
Rear wheel bolts to 60 N/M (T50)
Rear crud catcher 8 N/M (T30)..
The new paralever bolt, copper washer, and O ring were about £5 from BMW... please note that
if the paralever bolt comes loose catastrophic consequences can occur.

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Thanks, really helpful. Mostly what I would have guessed at (or very close).

I fitted a new paralever bolt (came with the hugger) and also recommended 56 Nm. Encapsulated threadlock on it too. I'll be keeping a close eye on everything for the next few rides to make sure nothing works loose.
 
All sorted now, looking spangly with a new Puig hugger.

The stat of the final drive oil - less than 100 miles on the clock - was a revelation. The first bit that leaked out through the speed sensor when I dropped the final drive unit was almost clear. When I drained it properly, it got progressively darker and the last bit was really sludgy. I don't know if changing the final drive oil is a 'first service' item but I hate to the think of the potential wear it might cause if not.
 
I think that the blackened sludge may well be the remnants of the assembly paste molybdenum type grease. I've dropped my final drive twice now and the blackened sludge was only apparent in the magnetic drain plug this time. It is magnetic and quite difficult to tease out of the plug. The very first time it much more visible in the oil.

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d523a6dd95027a21e90f0caf6b660b02.jpg


All the info you require is on here


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I do beg your pardon the actual oil refill is in Part 3 of the video series (part 2 deals with stripping of the final drive for the shaft lube... there are 6 videos in total).
This Boxflyer guy is an aircraft pilot who services BMW's for a hobby, he's a older guy and very patient and thorough in his explanations, well worth a watch for anyone who is contemplating home boxer twin work.

Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk

Thanks!
I do enjoy working on this series of bike and sharing anything to help the BMW community.

If you have any questions about what's contained in the videos or you need links to my files, let me know…I monitor this Forum for PM's

Boxflyer
BMW%20GSW%20Panel%20Screw%20Locations-1-M.jpg
 
Just watching your videos it's apparent you enjoy this type of work, as I do too, (maybe it's an age thing, as I'm the wrong side of 60 myself).
Unfortunately there's often squabbling on forums between 'opposite ends of the spectrum' but if we can all be respectful to each other and offer any advice if asked for in a post, or maybe a link to YouTube videos like yours, the world of BMW ownership would be a more satisfying hobby. Thankyou for your kind words and keep up the excellent work .

Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk
 
I did mine yesterday after my spline lube, I previously had bought off E-bay a 200ml plastic syringe to measure 180 ml of oil out. It's important to get all the oil out of the final drive through the drain plug on the bottom (incidentally there is a magnet in the recess of the drain plug that can be cleaned whilst the plug is out).
I used the syringe to refill the final drive after reconnecting the paralever arm and refitting the drain plug and wheel speed sensor, it is easier to get the oil into the final drive if you squirt it through the gap between the teeth of the crown wheel gear, only depress the plunger on your syringe SLOWLY as the oil can back up through the filler hole, you won't know how much you have spilled, and it will have to be drained again as it's import the quantity is correct. I also fitted a new 'o' ring on the drain plug and new copper washer on the filler plug.

Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk

Hi, does the wheel speed sensor have an oil seal. Removed mine but don’t have one?
 
Yes it does. I can't find the dimension for 34528536789 but I measured it at 11.0x1.5mm.
It's the same O-ring as on the front speed sensor pickup, and since it's not holding back any gear grease lube, you could rob from that one as long as you ensure you have clearance on the front speed ring.
 


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