HELP! No start no electics!

Lithium Polymer have the fire risk. Engine start types are less risky than lead acid.

Lithium motorcycle batteries are generally described as Lithium-Ion.
Lithium-Ion and Lithium-Ion-Polymer (Lithium-Polymer) batteries are the same chemistry, just different packaging depending on the application.

AGM Lead Acid batteries are extremely low risk. Never had an issue with one. So long as you accept the fact that they are consumables and change them out occasionally, they're fine.
Li-Po batteries on the other hand - I've had one 'inflate' and another damn near burst into flames.
Think i'll give it a few more years before going down that route, thank you very much.
 
Lithium polymer (LiPO) is not the same as a lithium starter battery LiFePo.

https://www.powerstream.com/LLLF.htm

The polymer has more clout but a very low tolerance to overcharging and will catch fire if overcharged. Special chargers are needed and a car/bike charging system is not accurate enough. They are OK as booster packs but not as normal starter batteries.

The dry cell LiFePo has a wider overcharge tolerance. Also they can only get to 95% with a standard car alternator or lead acid type charger. They have inbuilt circuits to stop overcharging in the event of alternator failure. This will probably kill the battery (as it does any battery) but it wont lead to a fire.
 
Lithium polymer (LiPO) is not the same as a lithium starter battery LiFePo.

https://www.powerstream.com/LLLF.htm

The polymer has more clout but a very low tolerance to overcharging and will catch fire if overcharged. Special chargers are needed and a car/bike charging system is not accurate enough. They are OK as booster packs but not as normal starter batteries.

The dry cell LiFePo has a wider overcharge tolerance. Also they can only get to 95% with a standard car alternator or lead acid type charger. They have inbuilt circuits to stop overcharging in the event of alternator failure. This will probably kill the battery (as it does any battery) but it wont lead to a fire.

JMT also does Lithium-Ion (LiPo) batteries.
LiFePo4....different kettle of fish.
 
Great when you have a garage with power.

I use Motobatt and I have no garage, bike lives outside, stands for long periods in containers between trips, never seen an optimate, never let me down in 5 years anf 75,000 miles and today I had to donate it to a WC owner who's super duper keyless ignition wonder bikes battery failed. The bikes had been in a container for 4 weeks and guess what? My old battery started the WC at the first touch of the button.
 
I use Motobatt and I have no garage, bike lives outside, stands for long periods in containers between trips, never seen an optimate, never let me down in 5 years anf 75,000 miles and today I had to donate it to a WC owner who's super duper keyless ignition wonder bikes battery failed. The bikes had been in a container for 4 weeks and guess what? My old battery started the WC at the first touch of the button.

Excellent stuff. However, Ive had stored bike batteries last less than a year. Hence my interest in a tech that's supposed to be fine for long term storage.

JMT also make lead acid batteries of all flavours.
 
New Motobatt Battery fitted and all is tickityboo again. Strange that it gave no symptoms though. :nenau
 
Not starting was a bit of a symptom, no? I think the Optimate masks the problem. My Motobatt experiences has been mixed but Odyssey in my 1150GS was excellent.
 
Some batteries just stop. Some run down slowly. Some when flat will still let you get home once started. Some will just go mental and do weird things to your bike. A bit like a woman really. Totally unpredictable.
 
My Odyssey is not scrap but I can't be arsed with it dithering sometimes and being fine at other times. (Starter motor is new BTW) It will go on another bike (if there's space) and it would have gone on the Panda 1200 if I'd not recently replaced it's battery.
 
For some reason I can't quote newmans posts, but today I experienced the same problem where newman said..

Got up to go to work, got bike out of garage, put key in and turned it on. Powers up as normal, put helmet and gloves on, press starter........ it turned over for a second and then stopped! Looked at dash and now have no electrics?????!

Not used my bike for 2.5 weeks whilst on holiday. This morning it powered up as normal on the dash but when starting the engine I just got a loud 'click', and wouldn't start. After turning ignition off and then back on, I had no electrics on the dash. Was running late for work so shoved it in the garage and got a lift to work off Mrs Bear. When getting home at 4pm I put the Motobat battery (8 months old) on charge with my Ctek.

Just now 10pm I've tried starting it again but got the exact same problem. The battery was showing 12.55v, with the ignition on it showed 13.05v

I connected my boost starter pack and the bike started. But wouldn't start again without it. Removed battery leads and refitted them and it started fine. With engine running the battery showed 14.55v

Ive put it back on charge for the night, and I'm hoping it will be ok in the morning.
 
For some reason I can't quote newmans posts, but today I experienced the same problem where newman said..

Got up to go to work, got bike out of garage, put key in and turned it on. Powers up as normal, put helmet and gloves on, press starter........ it turned over for a second and then stopped! Looked at dash and now have no electrics?????!

Not used my bike for 2.5 weeks whilst on holiday. This morning it powered up as normal on the dash but when starting the engine I just got a loud 'click', and wouldn't start. After turning ignition off and then back on, I had no electrics on the dash. Was running late for work so shoved it in the garage and got a lift to work off Mrs Bear. When getting home at 4pm I put the Motobat battery (8 months old) on charge with my Ctek.

Just now 10pm I've tried starting it again but got the exact same problem. The battery was showing 12.55v, with the ignition on it showed 13.05v

I connected my boost starter pack and the bike started. But wouldn't start again without it. Removed battery leads and refitted them and it started fine. With engine running the battery showed 14.55v

Ive put it back on charge for the night, and I'm hoping it will be ok in the morning.


The only thing different I did at the same time was replace the coils. Would coils prevent it from starting????


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The only thing different I did at the same time was replace the coils. Would coils prevent it from starting????


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

RAC bloke told me to ignore my optimate and that I needed Amps to get the bike started. He was explaining that the charger could easily show the battery as green but be of no use when trying to start a big twin. I think the CanBus is sensitive to battery charge myself.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
For some reason I can't quote newmans posts, but today I experienced the same problem where newman said..

Got up to go to work, got bike out of garage, put key in and turned it on. Powers up as normal, put helmet and gloves on, press starter........ it turned over for a second and then stopped! Looked at dash and now have no electrics?????!

Not used my bike for 2.5 weeks whilst on holiday. This morning it powered up as normal on the dash but when starting the engine I just got a loud 'click', and wouldn't start. After turning ignition off and then back on, I had no electrics on the dash. Was running late for work so shoved it in the garage and got a lift to work off Mrs Bear. When getting home at 4pm I put the Motobat battery (8 months old) on charge with my Ctek.

Just now 10pm I've tried starting it again but got the exact same problem. The battery was showing 12.55v, with the ignition on it showed 13.05v

I connected my boost starter pack and the bike started. But wouldn't start again without it. Removed battery leads and refitted them and it started fine. With engine running the battery showed 14.55v

Ive put it back on charge for the night, and I'm hoping it will be ok in the morning.

Your battery and the dear old Dutchess of Cambridge share the same problem.
And both of them are going to be a royal pain in the arse for the foreseeable future. I'll give you the same advice as I'd give to William. "Get rid" cheaper for you to do that though. Time for a new battery my friend.


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I've got a spare Odyssey battery (over 12 years old ) sitting in the garage that I use as a jumper battery ....it has started everything from bikes to cars, to tractors and even an old 7 1/2 ton Bedford TK Horsebox......... it is charged up maybe half a dozen times a year for a few days at a time.

I use Motobatt batteries on the Katana and the CCM and yes they are good and relatively cheap but they do not like being allowed to discharge and stand for any length of time ( found out with the katana when the Optimate failed over the winter).

Really doesn't matter what technology of battery you are using but especially with Lead Acid and even AGM if you are not using the bike on a regular basis ie weekly the bike really needs to be left on a suitable charger.

But as said batteries just sometimes give up the ghost and die due to age
 
I was surprised that the battery was an issue after the bike had been left for just 2 weeks. It otherwise gets used every day. The Motobatt battery is only 8 months old.
 


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