Help please, Final Drive problem

[nbaker]

Hi,
decided to change final drive oil and lube spline.

I have drained oil removed wheel etc, but I cannot disconnect rear spline it appears that the front (gearbox) spline has disconnected. I am now at a loss as what to do.

any help much appreciated.

Nige.

should of said this is on a 2015 R1200GS Watercooled.

 

[mrtee43]

Maybe use some sort of lever to carefully prise off the driveshaft from the final drive spline would be my thought, avoiding causing paint damage to the housing.

 

[nbaker]

The front spline has definatley disconnected I thought this had a circlip holding it in place?

As the front has disconnected I cannot see the rear spline to get any purchase on it.

 

[autogs]

you should be able to pull back the rubber gaiter nearest the fd and hold the uj and allow the shaft to disconnect,there is a circlip at the other end but its just a push to locate and pull to disengage.

 

[younger06]

I have a FD from a late 2016 GSA with minor cosmetic damage (bit of road rash) that only has a couple of thousand miles on it..............would make a great spare or parts donor, if anyone was planning to keep their LC long term.



(sorry for the blatent opportunism)

 

[Victor c]

Why not just remove the FD pivot bolt. The FD and shaft can then be separated on a bench.

 

[knutk]

In order to be able to disconnect the driveshaft from the final drive, you have to disconnect the top link arm (obviously) then tilt the drive back in order to get a gap between the swingarm and the gaiter. Squeeze a large screwdriver through the gap and make it enter into the gap in the universal joint. Then you swing the FD back up again and make it push the universal joint as far as possible into the swingarm. Use the screwdriver to hold back on the driveshaft, and now the drive will disconnect from the driveshaft.


If the driveshaft has already been disconnected in the front, you might not be able to push the universal joint far enough into the swingarm to manage to disconnect the drive. If that is the case, remove the lower bolts holding the final drive to the swingarm and pull the drive straight back.

The driveshaft is only held onto the drive by staying in position, no clips or any other stuff holding it. The purpose of bringing the universal joint as far forward as possible is merely to make the angle between the driveshaft and the spline on the final drive as straight as possible.

 

[nbaker]

Thank you everyone, I left it as is for today and will continue in the morning.

I think I will have to do as suggested and remove the pivot bolt and remove the shaft as I cannot get access to the rear FD spline.

 

[malcopopolo]

Thank you everyone, I left it as is for today and will continue in the morning.

I think I will have to do as suggested and remove the pivot bolt and remove the shaft as I cannot get access to the rear FD spline.

Good call, once you have slept on it you will have a different perspective on the challenge.

 

[beaver]

yes, think thats the best bet... then holding the shaft in a vice you can tap the final drive off... must be rusted on there I guess... And people say you don't have to grease them!!

 

[spoonz]

If it is rusted on I would check the boot for splits

 

[tanneman]

Jim von Baden video? Google it.

 

[roamer]

My gs did the same,
try soaking the rear spline through the universal joint with wd 40 or similar and the boot pushed back ,
and then tap the side of the shaft to break the rusty grip, then wiggle the shaft in a stirring motion, mine came free fairly easily,
i cleaned and painted the shaft as it was quite rusty at the FD end
re fitting the front joint with lube first [fiddly] then the rear,

 

[GSBruce]

...if anyone was planning to keep their LC long term. ...

I appreciate your sense of humor. I have a 2018 GS and a 2000 GS, both original owner. The 2000 GS is a bike you can keep for the long term. The LC's will have relatively short operating lives due to the complexity and expensive, dodgy software/hardware and significant reduction in quality (see "Chinese wheels"). It's a nice bike, but the point at which it becomes a potential or real liability will arrive much sooner than with earlier models.

 

[nbaker]

Well managed to remove final drive ok, wasn't rusted at all.

New problem now though I cannot reconnect the shaft to the front gearbox spline a I cannot line it up.

 

[beaver]

Why?.. just push the front boot back and get your fingers in to work it on.. once its on, a sharp tap from the back and it will pop onto its clip...
grease first....

 

[nbaker]

You make it sound so easy, hehe.

Its very difficult to align as you are pushing the shaft up at an angle then the universal joint moves the wrong way.

 

[beaver]

you could take the shock off and chock up the arm to make it level... but its not that out of line is it (can't remember)... mine came off easy and back on after painting the prop.. I know this does not help you though

 

[Victor c]

You make it sound so easy, hehe.

Its very difficult to align as you are pushing the shaft up at an angle then the universal joint moves the wrong way.

For both the front and rear ujs, once you have the rubber gaiters pulled back, thread a length of electrical wire through the joint yolk. This will make it easier to hold it in position to enter on the splines.

 

[knutk]

You make it sound so easy, hehe.

Its very difficult to align as you are pushing the shaft up at an angle then the universal joint moves the wrong way.

If you have a nylon strap with a ratchet (the kind you use for securing stuff), wind the strap around the swingarm and secure the strap over the pillion seat and down to the bracket holding the right footrest, and then you jack up the swingarm to a much straighter line....