HELP Strange noise from paralever?

Rushy

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Wouldnt you know it . I lend my car to a good friend for 2 weeks and now the bike sounds terminally ill. Or is it?

1150GS 20,000+ miles. Just been given the 18k and annual service 2 mths ago.

Forgive me if I sound like a numpty who doesnt know the names of certain components of the bike but here goes;

When i bounce up and down on the bike there is a loud groaning / creaking noise coming from aoround the gaiter that is between the top/driveshaft part of the paralever and the back end ( bevel box?).

Its a really dry creaking sound that can be heard at very low speed when I hit a bump or drop off a kerb etc. What is it??? Shoud I stop riding the bike immediately? Cant afford a big bill at the moment. :eek: :eek: :eek:
 
Dry paralever bearings. Regrease or just carry on driving. They'll be fecked anyway and won't cause any grief carrying on riding as they are.
 
Thanks Neil,

Anybody know if I can regrease by just removing the gaiter and gaining access or is there more invloved in it than that? If there is then I'd be happier leaving a professional to do the work.
 
No, you'll need to undo both pivots and after that you'll need a serious torque wrench to retighten. Very easy job with the right tools
 
Rushy said:
Thanks Neil,

Anybody know if I can regrease by just removing the gaiter and gaining access or is there more invloved in it than that? If there is then I'd be happier leaving a professional to do the work.

So, yes there is more to it, first you need a heat gun to soften the loctite which is used to retain the pins which hold the bearings, or you will most likely strip the threads from the aluminium. Then to put it back together you need a tiny torque wrench, the pre load is small on the taper needles. Have you checked that it is not the tension rod bearings squeaking?

Otherwise this is a good link if you want to do the job, it is easy if you have the tools, done it myself using the wife,s propane kitchen torch:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11349

African Welsh :beer: :thumb
 
carbold said:
No, you'll need to undo both pivots and after that you'll need a serious torque wrench to retighten. Very easy job with the right tools

True, but as I am in the heavy engineering game, getting a big torque wrench is a doddle (we torque 100mm bolts) but a tiny one is an issue we do not ply with little stuff.

Welsh :nenau
 
Yeap, watch out for the pivot bolts, they have threadlock compound so warm them up before releasing them.

Also make sure all the threads are clean before replacing the pivot bolts, especially the LHS one... because you hardly apply any torque to it and traces of thread lock can cause it to feel like it has reached full torque before it is properly seating with the bearings in the final drive.
 


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