Hexhead Oil Temp & Analysis

[Gavin Buckle]

I’m aware there have been numerous oil threads, however none can give me a definitive answer.

I have a 2008 R1200GS and was stuck on traffic a while ago. The temp gauge indicated 7 bars (just below triangle indicator). I’m not sure how long the indicator was on 7 bars, however the bike showed no signs of overheating (pinging, rough idling, excessive heat coming from the engine, low oil pressure warning) etc. I’m well aware that the 2008 boxer is an oil/air cooled engine and needs air flow to keep the engine cool.

I discussed the following with my local BMW dealership:
• 2004 – 2007 GS: The bar indicator flashes if the engine overheats and general warning light lights up.
• 2013 GS: General warning lights up red and temperature symbol appears on display.
• 2008 - 2012: Has only the horizontal bars and no other warning mechanism.

The dealership requested clarification from BMW Germany and their reply was:
“The truth is there is no warning regarding over temperature and the display will never reach the top. (since the sensor is not able to read more than 148 degree c no matter what the real temperature is). We could spend much time trying to explain how this can be. But it is and we have to handle it.”

• Question: Has anyone ever tested the temp sensor to clarify if the readout passes the 7 bar mark?

I took a sample of the engine oil to an oil analysis company and according to them the oil showed very little indication of degradation.
The owner of the business stated that as long as the oil is flowing, the engine should be ok.
• Question: What should I look for in the oil analysis results that might indicate oil overheating?

All the literature I’ve read relating to oil states that:
• Viscosity decreases with increased heat.
• Certain additives break down with increased heat.
• Long term viscosity might increase due to the breakdown of certain additives.

According to a post on ADVrider/GSpot FAQ: Part 5 (Oil):
For oil temperature LCD readout, there are 10 BARS, with no bars showing to be taken as zero bars:
0 33.5° C ..... 92° F
1 40° C..... 104° F
2 65° C..... 149° F
3 80° C..... 176° F
4 90° C..... 194° F
5 105° C..... 221° F
6 130° C..... 266° F
7 150° C..... 302° F
8 160° C..... 320° F
9 170° C..... 338° F
10 175° C..... 347° F

As far as I can tell there are only 9 horizontal bars.

• Question: What damage might occur if the maximum temperature is exceeded apart from the lack of lubrication?
• Question: Has anyone ever experienced more than 7 bars?
• Question: Has anyone ever overheated and damaged a boxer?

Numerous GS owners have experienced the bike’s 7th Temperature Bar being illuminated while in town traffic. According to the advice they have received from Official BMW Service Centres this occurrence is nothing to be alarmed by.

 

[Deleted account 211025001]

Bleeding heck

Well, in answer I'd say that my '05 bike has got VERY hot on a number of occasions, hot enough for the hydraulic cam chain tensioner to loose pressure and sound like the engine was about to pop a rod.

It's been off roaded, had long stints a high speeds on autobahns and generally used for what it was designed for.

I use a good quality oil, as per the handbook, and change it, as per the handbook.

The engine's done a few miles now in nearly 10 years of ownership and guess what, it still starts when I press the button and it still gets me to my destination

Andres

 

[(RIP) Johno23]

What oil are you using?

 

[Gavin Buckle]

Castrol GTX 20/50 High Mileage ... as per the dealership's recommendations.

 

[(RIP) Johno23]

Had six or seven bars up a few times, in south of France at tolls, stuck in towns etc, heat can build up quickly when it's 32 degrees.Never had a problem though, drops back down to 3/4 normally.
At last oil change,Riders indicated that BMW now recomended fully synthetic even for mine, 59 plate GS. So I purchased whatever they recomended at about £15 a litre. Bike runs warmer with this in it, as slightly thinner oil 10/40 I think. I was down at Cardiff Motorrad yesterday talking to Phil and he said to go back to 20/50 as that is the correct oil for mine (which I had always used previously), so I will be going back to that.

 

[GBDamo]

Had mine very hot in Madrid, 38+ ambient temp, and it overheated. That is the bars were well up and something made me stop to allow it to cool, I can't remember whether it was a warning light or just the bars and smell or the sun tan I was getting from the cherry red headers???

All started fine after 30 mins and has run fine since, didn't get the oil analysed.

 

[Deleted account 190920001]

You don't need an oil analysis to tell you if the oil is cooked or not you can smell it.
It's an air cooled engine it will let you know long before its going to destroy itself by rattling or running bad. People have left their bikes on idle long enough to have melted the oil level glass and the bikes have ran fine since. These bikes are ridden all over the world in a lot hotter temps than found in the UK or Europe for that matter.
I don't have any scientific reasoning for you but I do have this.
http://youtu.be/d-diB65scQU

 

[adventuredon]

Fully synthetic only if more than 10k on the clock, iirc

 

[Deleted account 190920001]

Fully synthetic only if more than 10k on the clock, iirc

Not on a hex head it isn't. You can use it and dealers may use it but the book clearly states 20/50 Dino juice is good enough.

 

[jeff]

Fully synthetic only if more than 10k on the clock, iirc

2010GSA. Dealer put in full synthetic at 12000 miles. First and only time it has ever used oil. On semi synthetic never used a drop in 24,000 miles.

Incidentally BMW Motorrad Greece recommend 20/50 mineral oil. Real good British trained mechanic in Crete Motorrad said fully synthetic is like piss in a hot climate. It's an agricultural air cooled comparatively slow revving twin, BMW are conning UK bikers into uneccessary huge expense by specifying full synthetic for what can only be additional profit. Stick to any good quality 20/50 mineral oil and your bike will be fine.

 

[Bryn]

So in good old blighty... where it is never likely to go over 30C fully synth should be fine , but expensive..... unless of course you get the deal that was on with Tesco last winter....

Castrol Power1 10/40 fully synthetic at £2.50 a litre

 

[jeff]

So in good old blighty... where it is never likely to go over 30C fully synth should be fine , but expensive..... unless of course you get the deal that was on with Tesco last winter....

Castrol Power1 10/40 fully synthetic at £2.50 a litre.

I'm sure it's fine but my bike burnt it in April in UK and France last year when it was cold. My main point is why waste money on something that is not necessary and provides no benefit (except to BMW & Castrol) My Toyota has run for 10 years from new on Lidl's finest and would probably do another 20.

 

[Bryn]

So in good old blighty... where it is never likely to go over 30C fully synth should be fine , but expensive..... unless of course you get the deal that was on with Tesco last winter....

Castrol Power1 10/40 fully synthetic at £2.50 a litre.

I'm sure it's fine but my bike burnt it in April in UK and France last year when it was cold. My main point is why waste money on something that is not necessary and provides no benefit (except to BMW & Castrol) My Toyota has run for 10 years from new on Lidl's finest and would probably do another 20.

I know what you mean.... I'll be using the Castrol Power1 as it was cheap

 

[Haggler]

Now I'm confused just picked up oil from BMW and they said now using 15-50 instead of the 10-40. In theory should be good as 50 when hot instead of 40. Still chuffin dear though £15 a litre (Decided to use their stuff while still in waranty period) but will see how it goes, not used any oil in last 6000 though.

 

[Bryn]

Now I'm confused just picked up oil from BMW and they said now using 15-50 instead of the 10-40. In theory should be good as 50 when hot instead of 40. Still chuffin dear though £15 a litre (Decided to use their stuff while still in waranty period) but will see how it goes, not used any oil in last 6000 though.

Just have a look in the owners manual.... and there's a range of oils that could be used , dependent on the range of temperatures..... 10-40 will work, 20-50 will work and so will 10-50 so don't worry too much .....

 

[Martyn H]

I asked Castrol a few months ago for their recommendation, & had a really comprehensive reply back.
The tech. chap said he personally wouldn't use a 40W oil in the Boxers.
He also said that he thought a fully synthetic oil was overkill in the UK, which is generally cooler than many other parts of Europe, let alone the rest of the world.
He recommended Power 1 15W-50, for all my bikes which range from a 1979 R100 to a (last of the air-cooled) 2013 R1200. It does make life simpler, keeping just one oil in my garage

 

[bikemad]

Iv owned a lot of bikes normally use Castrol or silkoline had a few old 70s & 80s japs I put cheap 20/50 in never had clutch probs though just changed my GS oil as there is no record when last done used 10/40 power 1 still looks clean though glass my diesel vans I always change oil at or below half rec manufacture mileages in fact some are plain silly nowadays reason why turbos etc wear out but oils depends on use if you stop n start a lot I do in my van it's degrading it quicker cos engines not up to operating temps I'm never goner worry overheating my bike it'd have to be bloody hot out & I think as others said you'd know by the smell.

I do always remember a reliant trike guy had wrong rads on he used to have to pour water in every half hour or so from big jerry can wacky races comes to mind my mate was with him when it finally cooked apparently smelt like a foundry