HID lighting hardware

ThreeDawg

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I've just received a set of Hella/HID lights from Les Wassall (excellent service BTW) but am having trouble cramming all the hardware in.

I made up a plate to sit under the beak of my 1100 with a spacer so the silver boxes could be stacked (see photo) and have fitted the lights to a Migsel bar. So far, so good, but I could do with ideas on where to stash the black boxes.

I'm working towards getting all this fully sorted for the National Rally of Scotland and I have the shocks to do as well so some ideas would help move things along would be gratefully received.

Three Dawg

BMWGSLights.jpg
 
you should have stuck the whole lot to the inside/rear of the beak with sticky back velcro:blast
 
you should have stuck the whole lot to the inside/rear of the beak with sticky back velcro:blast

Any pictures please? I've just attached mine under the beak (2k 1150GS) but am not really happy with the installation there. Ideally I'd have liked to put the ballast in the empty ABS pump space under the tank but obviously the wiring would need to be extended; also I'm not sure how the ballast would like the heat from the engine in that position?

Cheers,

Mick
 
Any pictures please? I've just attached mine under the beak (2k 1150GS) but am not really happy with the installation there. Ideally I'd have liked to put the ballast in the empty ABS pump space under the tank but obviously the wiring would need to be extended; also I'm not sure how the ballast would like the heat from the engine in that position?

Cheers,

Mick

Wires can be extend by using "fluke" tester silicone leads.

Just cut the hid loom wires ,now strip back to bare wire
Ad some shrink wrap before to cover connection, (you can also) use silicone air line pipe thats used in fish tanks. this will slip over the shrink wrap wires.

solder together, heat shrink wrap up, then slip over silicone pipe.. Job done...test yer conection..

The fish tank silicone pipe gives more protection against rubbing against anything.

My balast is fitted under my tank near battery box (still have poxy ABS unit fitted) the original wires were extended by this method...

Ive rode over 1000 plus miles later it works fine..

My bike is the 1100GS


ugg
 
Last edited:
My bike is the 1100GS

How'd you find the lighting with the single set up the 1100 has?

I've been told that on the airheads, also single set up, that it's all a bit of a compromise as the filament has to move backwards and forwards for low / high. Or did you just set it up for low beam and as it's so good, not bother with high?
 
How'd you find the lighting with the single set up the 1100 has?

I've been told that on the airheads, also single set up, that it's all a bit of a compromise as the filament has to move backwards and forwards for low / high. Or did you just set it up for low beam and as it's so good, not bother with high?

mines a bysexual fitting....er bi-xenon a think.:augie

the beam on dip is ok, when full beam is used the difference is it goes a lot further , but not as high a spred as a Halogen H4 bulb.

The intesity is there but, could be better..
I used Lez,s HID 50W set up . other bulbs in there class were poor.

Lez,s bulb splits into two parts , so it fits in the 1100 bulb housing without any problem.
You will need this bulb type because the other cheaper type wont fit over the spring coil type fitting on the 1100 headlight.:mad:

I bought a cheaper set and couldnt make it fit at all, because the bulb was the type that didnt split for insalation.

The other thing i found was my aux lights were changed as the hid Bi-xenon runs on one power flow.

Ie the halogen bulb is duel filiment....two sources of power to switch from low(dip) and high (full) beam...

The Bi-xenon bulb has only one power source..

Ie the bulb operates by a magnetic sliding mechanism, there is only one coil not element .

This means when you switch on dip..and aux lights

Then switch to full and spot lights...
the power is still running to one coil in the bulb , ie no hight beam circuit to switch to..the circuit is still open on dip , therefore both sets of aux light are still lit up..

There is a way of bypassing this on your relay, but we havnt figured it out yet.????

sounds bloody complicated a know:confused:


Im not very good at explainin' stuff , hope ye can make sense of this:D

ugg
 
Nope its the main headlight bulb ive fitted a HID
the aux lights are H3 single beam bulbs


its the hid bub that alters your power on switching path, on the aux lights because its a single coil(element) set up...

ugg

I have a bi xenon H4 setup too, my aux lights are on a separate switch, I only use them for car scaring and conspicuity these days, Ugg, my Bi Xenon takes its switching signal from a connector with the same connectors as the back end of an H4 bulb, which connects to the original bulbholder, could you not take switching signals from the original main/dip lives there ?

Stewart
 
I have a bi xenon H4 setup too, my aux lights are on a separate switch, I only use them for car scaring and conspicuity these days, Ugg, my Bi Xenon takes its switching signal from a connector with the same connectors as the back end of an H4 bulb, which connects to the original bulbholder, could you not take switching signals from the original main/dip lives there ?

Stewart

I also have a seperate switch to turn each set of lights on or off.

they are wired to live dip and full, but run through a relay to keep power surge down.

Its the relay being confused as there is a power link open when using dip and full beam on the aux lights.

on h4 set up the relay switches between dip and full because one element switches to another ,ie switching the relay..

there will be a bypass on the relay...digger06 will figure it out, hes had more experience with relays than me.


ugg
 
Doesn't matter, I've sorted it by pairing the black boxes and fixing them to the lightbar at one end and the fairing stay at the other. They're light so should be OK.

Three Dawg
 
I stock the factory extenstion leads for the HiD's if need'd :thumb2
 


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