higher seat DIY

F104

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Aug 20, 2008
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belgium
I'm 6.4. I posted some time ago about a diy higher seat (that is the putting the optional high seat higher) . Never followed up as i got hit by a car, and four months later again. The bike kind of survided the first one but i had broken bits, I had nearly nothing in the second, but bike and seat construction were totalled. Now have a 05 GS, and just raised the seat by 30mm in a different & better way. I now can't get two feet flat on the road. Did a short road trip, and just back from an organised two day offroad trip (14hrs on the bike), and i'm happy with it. The higher seat gives a better leg angle without having to lower the pegs, and as your upper body is higher you now lean forward a bit more, a position which feels better to me and my lower back. I'm not happy yet with windscreen turbulent flow and noise (std screen) but believe the higher position gets my helmet almost outside the turbulent flow. Thinking of cutting the top inch of the screen (the bit which is curved up) first, or find a screen that has a flatter angle. If you like the "on the tank" position for cornering - this nearly allows it!

I used an alu 30x30x2mm profile with rounded corners I had laying around. Drilled these so they fit under the 4 brackets in which the seat is fitted. So removed the brackets, and used them as a jig to drill the holes. They have a metal sleeve inside which is great for this purpose. Use the whole bracket as a jig, not the rubber pad only as the rubber deforms and the holes won't be aligned. Got 8 female-female M5 thread bits. I could only find 30mm length, another reason for the 30*30, put these over the existing M5 studs which are I believe friction welded to the frame (bit of WD40 and they easily screw on), increased the holes in the profiles to 9mm for the OD of these thread bits, and with minor rework they fitted great. Spent the extra Euro on better looking allen head M5 capscrews (20mm long, leaves 4mm spare) to fix the brackets onto the thread bits, and it doensn't look half bad.
Oh yes, seat lock has to go. No biggy in my view, the front seat can be unlocked by simply pushing on the lever on which the lock acted, and once you know where the spring is which locks the rear seat it's dead simple to push it in with any tool ( I have my topcase on the position of the rear seat). The rod which operates both driver seat locks now runs over the tool tray. And don't think you could still get a U lock in there (rod is a bit in the way) - but i don't have one.

Watch outs:
- 30*30 profiles with sharp corners won't work. They are that little too wide and interfere with the weldings (and look out of place) . I had to to minor work on mine. Steel profiles have round corners but drilling and rework will be more difficult with hand tools
- cut these just as long as the rubber pads underneath the mounts. Any longer and they interfere with airfilter housing, frame, tool tray, and/or rear plastic module.
- +30mm height gives still acceptable spacing to the tank. 40mm (i had on the old bike) would give a noticeable gap. And it is simply not possible to move the seat brackets forward (eg offset vs the studs on the frame). Airfilter housing is in the way, and i can't figure out how to get the nuts on, unless you use U profiles which are less sturdy.
- cut off the two hooks on the front of the seat wich "lock" with the tank. I put some heavy duty tape on the tank where this area could touch it.

The downside: Seen from the side the area underneath the seat looks a bit unfinished. However I'll see if i can do a "tray" under the the seat to finish the sides nicely and to be able to use the space which is now there.. rain suit, chain lock etc.
 


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