Honest answers please

Disaster Area

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Hi,
Following on from my last posting http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105670 I have decided to get the area welded up and then to retap the thread. Hopefully that will get it sorted. The question is this: How hard is it to remove the cylinder head? I'm not a complete muppet, but I realise that if things go wrong it could be expensive to put right. Is this something that a reasonably intelligent person can attempt or should I just admit defeat and get it done for me?
Cheers,
DA
 
Thanks for that

That link is superb - I just have one question. I get the idea about the cable tie on the chain and sprocket, and also about getting the tab on the sprocket back in the same place on the shaft, BUT, is there only one indent for that tab to fit into?

In other words, is the important thing not to let the chain move relative to the sprocket (which can then only go back in one place) or to make sure that the sprocket goes back on the shaft at the same point (i.e. if it came off the shaft at the 9 O'Clock position it has to go back at the same position).

Or, as I suspect, a combination of both points?

Hope that makes sense and that people don't think that I'm being dumb - I'm going to take my time (for once!) to get everything sorted in my mind before I start anything!

DA
 
Hi Disaster

Get yourself a Haynes manual, the info in it is spot on and I wouldn't recommend starting without it. There are a few things you need to know like torque settings for the cylinder head studs etc.
Your cam sprocket can only go on one way but, and I speak from experience, you can make a tit of it if the lug doesn't locate properly.

Kenny
 
How much is the welding etc going to cost you? Motoworks have secondhand heads for £97.50 IIRC. Not cheap but then neither is a proper ally welding job....Just a thought.

Adie
 
Other possibilities

Hi,
I did look at the motorworks website - to be honest, with the exchange rate I would be surprised if a second hand one would be cheaper than the welding. Although I wouldn't have to pay VAT, I would have to have it posted out to me and then I would have to pay someone to swap the valves over, which could be costly. I've got the names of some people who could do the welding, so I'll investigate costs later this week.

By coincidence I popped into the dealer yesterday to show them the gory pictures and he mentioned trading mine (a '94 1100 with 68,000 km's) for an ex rental 1150, showing 127,000 km's. They both appear to have the same level of fit (panniers, etc). Anyone got any comments on trading?
 
From my (limited) experience of ally casting welding, I know that the end result will depend on how porous the original metal is, how pure it is, and how well degreased it is before trying to weld.

Make sure the casting is thoroughly degreased and is spotlessly clean before attempting a weld repair, otherwise your welder will just blow holes in it as the oil and crap burns off.
 
Once did a repair for a suzuki in a similar place . Drilled it out as big & deap as i could then tapped it out (think it was 10mm) & drilled an m10 bolt down the center & tapped it to 6mm using thread lock screwed the bolt into the head then cut the head off & file it flat that was 5 years ago & still going strong worth a thought :thumb
 
Thanks for the replies; I'm going to contact some aluminium welding specialists during the week and see what they say. As its not a vital load bearing area I guess any weld is better than no weld.

I did consider drilling it out and putting another bolt in - does anyone know how deep I can drill before I hit oil (literally as well as metaphorically)? The other problem that putting another bolt in would cause is having to remove the remaining part of the original casting.

Oh the joys of spannering... Why is it that tackling one job always leads to about five other jobs?:rolleyes:
 
Good idea or not?

Right, I've found a company that will do the welding. The guy I spoke to said that it may not be necessary to remove the cylinder head from the bike. Is it wise to leave it on? I can remember the scene in LWR (was it Claudio's bike?) when they welded one of the bikes and the ABS and other electricals threw a wobbly. Also, do I need to take the valves out? :eek
 
Welding

My contact in BMW dealers recons that claudios bike was not damaged by welding. A man from bmw was sent outto collect the machine and found that they had not reconnected one multiway connecter, the man from bmw plugged it in and all was well.
dave gs.
 
i would have thought as long as your battery is disconnected and any electronic bits are unplugged and the welder puts the earth clamp/lead as close as possible to the weld site then everything should be ok

andy (tig/mig/mma welder retired):rob :thumb2 :beerjug:
 
just disconnect the battery - degrease it with brake cleaner and weld it up.

( does " i have decided to..."') mean ..i've tried to bodge it, but it didn't work...:D
 
just disconnect the battery - degrease it with brake cleaner and weld it up.

( does " i have decided to..."') mean ..i've tried to bodge it, but it didn't work...:D

I resent that remark ;)
For once I have taken my time, thought about what to do, asked for advice and will end up paying a professional before I make a gigantic prat of myself.

So, the list of things to disconnect stands at: Battery and ABS. Any other suggestions?

p.s. how do you disconnect the ABS?
 
Just been to see a man in a workshop full of machinary. He reckons that if I take the cylinder head and rocker gear off then he can clean it, de-valve it, weld it, re-valve it and drill it for about NZ$100 (about £40). Now that seems like a bargain, especially as I was quoted NZ$800 for a new head!

Any top tips for cylinder head and rocker gear removal? It's all gone too well so far...
DA
 


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