horn-indcator change!!!

Loz

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hi guy's
i just can't get on with that fuggin horn button and was thinking of swaping the horn and indcator wrie's over,is this possible?
(25 years of jap bike's) cheer's....loz
 
Certainly is Stanley :eyebrow I have done this mod being an ex jap bike owner too and find it way better than the standard config. I didn`t find switching the flashers on a problem but turning off again whilst trying to turn the twist grip was a feckin pain in the arse not to mention the incessant indicating left when trying to advise a dozy cage driver of my prescence! See here for some other views.
It`s a easy mod as long as you have a tiny bit of electrikery and spannering practice. If it is an 1150 you have I can give you some pointers.
Cheers, L. :)
 
lukate said:


It`s a easy mod as long as you have a tiny bit of electrikery and spannering practice. Cheers, L. :)

Oh well, he'll be getting someone else to do it then.....:D Two left hands & a hammer won't do the job I fear.
 
pointer's

lukate said:
Certainly is Stanley :eyebrow I have done this mod being an ex jap bike owner too and find it way better than the standard config. I didn`t find switching the flashers on a problem but turning off again whilst trying to turn the twist grip was a feckin pain in the arse not to mention the incessant indicating left when trying to advise a dozy cage driver of my prescence! See here for some other views.
It`s a easy mod as long as you have a tiny bit of electrikery and spannering practice. If it is an 1150 you have I can give you some pointers.
Cheers, L. :)
hi mate
i have got an 1150 so point away:) thank's in advance....loz
 
Right then

Sorry for the delay in responding Mr Loz, I`ve been out and about.

Here is your very rough guide to a switch swap....................

First pm me with you`re email and I will send you a wiring diagram.

Then, if you don`t already have quick release fuel hose connectors fitted, I heartily recommend you buy some. Not essential though. If you do, beware that some only have a stop valve in one end, get some with valves at both ends. You will require two fittings.

Get your tools out, including a multimeter.

Now........Seat and side panel off.

Next...........disconnect fuel hoses, breather pipes and electrics from the tank. All on the offside. The fuel lines are hose clipped onto hard lines that run into the airbox, tag them so you know which goes where and if you don`t have quick release fittings you will need to clamp the hoses somehow. The breather pipes run out under the back of the tank and over the frame rail. They are about 6mm dia and black, you can trace them up from behind the footrest hanger where they end, there should be a straight connector near the frame rail in each pipe so you can pull them apart. The electrical connector is a simple pull apart block type attached to the frame just below the tank. Double check you have disconnected everything then remove the tank retaining bolt and lift away the tank. Grasp it front and back and gently lift from the rear first then up and away.

Now to the electrical fun.......You will see a mass of block connectors fixed to the top of the frame. They are all slotted together so take a close look and you should be able to work out what slides off what, and in which direction to pull them apart. The two you are interested in are the top row outermost ones. To double check this, trace the wiring back from the handle bar switch blocks on either side. Now work out which pin/wire goes to which switch. wiring diagram/multimeter. Only use the diagram as a guide, 12V wire colouring often varies. Confirm using your multimeter.

Extract and swap relevant pins around.

Job done,
Now put it all back together again :D and larf insanely :boozer as you repeatedly honk the horn at every left turn for the next 1000miles until your brain :idea eventually gets used to yet ANOTHER new format! :D

Good luck :thumb
 


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