I have a question after speaking to two BMW dealerships who gave me conflicting advice.
Please bare with me...
I have an Adv tank (well actually 2. But that's another story) that I wish to swop the internals from my standard tank with. OK so far?
I've booked the tanks in for a swop over with one dealer who never mentioned any problems with the procedure. Unfortunately they can't do it for 3 weeks due to all the fair weather riders who've come out of the woodwork
I called in another dealership to see if they could do it sooner BUT the technician came out of his workshop to state that it can't be done as there are 3 (?) pipes or something needing connecting (I thought there was only two which join both tank lobes but what do I know?).
He then informed me that there would be a lot of unused fuel left in one of the lobes (I assume the left hand side as the pump is in the right).
The comments on this thread seem to show the procedure as being fairly straight forward but being an eternal pessimist I want some reassurance that it will work.
Can you clarify a couple of other things for me?
Does the yellow fuel warning come on early and after how many miles? I think the mileage of an Adv tank is about 300+ miles soit will need clock watching I suppose? Does it matter that much if you don't bend the fuel float arm thingy?? Does the fuel flow from the left lobe to the right one by simple gravity, osmosis, pressure drawing from the fuel pump.
I'm a bit stumped now having the 2nd dealership throwing me this curveball.
Any reassurance welcome.
Steve
Please bare with me...
I have an Adv tank (well actually 2. But that's another story) that I wish to swop the internals from my standard tank with. OK so far?
I've booked the tanks in for a swop over with one dealer who never mentioned any problems with the procedure. Unfortunately they can't do it for 3 weeks due to all the fair weather riders who've come out of the woodwork
I called in another dealership to see if they could do it sooner BUT the technician came out of his workshop to state that it can't be done as there are 3 (?) pipes or something needing connecting (I thought there was only two which join both tank lobes but what do I know?).
He then informed me that there would be a lot of unused fuel left in one of the lobes (I assume the left hand side as the pump is in the right).
The comments on this thread seem to show the procedure as being fairly straight forward but being an eternal pessimist I want some reassurance that it will work.
Can you clarify a couple of other things for me?
Does the yellow fuel warning come on early and after how many miles? I think the mileage of an Adv tank is about 300+ miles soit will need clock watching I suppose? Does it matter that much if you don't bend the fuel float arm thingy?? Does the fuel flow from the left lobe to the right one by simple gravity, osmosis, pressure drawing from the fuel pump.
I'm a bit stumped now having the 2nd dealership throwing me this curveball.
Any reassurance welcome.
Steve
So let me think about this.
The Q/D's have a habit of breaking, as you've found out by already breaking one, so you don't want that to happen again do you ??.
So you've solved your problem by adding another Q/D. Doubling your opportunity of breaking a Q/D when removing the tank.
Pure genius.
Long story short - You have one more piece of pipe than standard.
it connects the two sides of the tank, you can see the spigots on the lobes. You connect a Q/D in the pipe so you can undo it when you remove the tank, and not lose any fuel.
Tip of the day......... Don't look into the tank as you fill it, it'll sting. Don't believe me ? Ask Ewan.
rocks
Registered user
About to do the same..
Have read this thread with great interest.. this arrived at weekend..
Its a plain adv SE tank with no internals.
I am hoping to collect all the other internals/additions to allow me to do a straight swap without having to mess with fuel tank.
I am I right in think it consists of the following;
1) Filler cap
2) One way valve/filler neck unit/overfill item?
3) Fuel pump
4) Fluel level float
5) Fuel Filter
6) Pump O ring
7) Fuel tubing (not sure on lenths but probably in order of 2m worth??)
8) Three Quick Disconnectors (mine is 2000 GS so not quick disconnectors on fuel lines)
Have read this thread with great interest.. this arrived at weekend..
Its a plain adv SE tank with no internals.
I am hoping to collect all the other internals/additions to allow me to do a straight swap without having to mess with fuel tank.
I am I right in think it consists of the following;
1) Filler cap
2) One way valve/filler neck unit/overfill item?
3) Fuel pump
4) Fluel level float
5) Fuel Filter
6) Pump O ring
7) Fuel tubing (not sure on lenths but probably in order of 2m worth??)
8) Three Quick Disconnectors (mine is 2000 GS so not quick disconnectors on fuel lines)
Glad to see you're the voice of reason, again. Realised that there would be only another pipe to join the two sides of the tank but couldn't work out what BM technician was going on about in not being able to get the fuel from the left hand side. Maybe he just didn't want to do it.
Looking forward to putting the SE ADV tank on the bike.
Now my glass is half full
Steve
Geordie Foote
Registered user
Steve....
Let me know how you get on. I fitted my tank a couple of months ago (with help from Steptoe etc), best thing Ive done to the bike. Did you manage to find any internals, or are you planning to use yor old ones? Dont forget to do the filler neck modification if you havnt already.
If I can be of any help please shout.
Good luck!
Let me know how you get on. I fitted my tank a couple of months ago (with help from Steptoe etc), best thing Ive done to the bike. Did you manage to find any internals, or are you planning to use yor old ones? Dont forget to do the filler neck modification if you havnt already.
If I can be of any help please shout.
Good luck!
Don't now if it's been posted - But the fuel gauge on an ADV isn't progressive. it reads full, and the bars don't start to reduce until about 100-120 miles, and then it reduces the same as a standard tank.
So don't try to bend the float arm expecting it act as a standard tank from full to empty.
So don't try to bend the float arm expecting it act as a standard tank from full to empty.
Let me know how you get on. I fitted my tank a couple of months ago (with help from Steptoe etc), best thing Ive done to the bike. Did you manage to find any internals, or are you planning to use yor old ones? Dont forget to do the filler neck modification if you havnt already.
If I can be of any help please shout.
Good luck!
Many thanks for the offer. I intend to use my standard tank internals. Have now got all the parts necessary to do the swop.
Brian O went through the process on the phone last night and gave me a lot more confidence (being a complete techno numpty) in seeing that it isn't too complicated a process. Will let you know how it goes. Thanks for the reminder. I intend to do the neck filler mod too.
Another good point by Steptoe again
Think I might do a full to empty tank ride out and see how many miles it will do and then access all future journeys using milage rather than the inaccurate fuel gauge.
Thanks again all
Steve
rocks
Registered user
Quick Disconnectors..
Anyone one got a decent source for quick disconnectors?
Motorworks want near £40 for a pair and Steptoe recommended Halfords, but my local one doesnt have any in.
Any other places anyone can recommend?..
Anyone one got a decent source for quick disconnectors?
Motorworks want near £40 for a pair and Steptoe recommended Halfords, but my local one doesnt have any in.
Any other places anyone can recommend?..
Connectors.
Halfords are the same connectors and the same price as TT , have seen a site on here for inddustrial connectorsd do the same things for about a fiver. Do a search and see. Or try another halfords.
dave gs. ( or have a look on rs components siote).
Halfords are the same connectors and the same price as TT , have seen a site on here for inddustrial connectorsd do the same things for about a fiver. Do a search and see. Or try another halfords.
dave gs. ( or have a look on rs components siote).
URGENT
Last question (I promise) but does anyone know the bore of the fuel pipes. I've found a small parts shop that will cut me any length as apposed to having to buy 1.2 metres from BMW.
Parts all off the bike so next we'll see if I've remembered where they all go when putting it back together.
Thanks in anticipation. Need to buy it tommorrow so I can get it all back together before the Gathering next week.
Steve
Last question (I promise) but does anyone know the bore of the fuel pipes. I've found a small parts shop that will cut me any length as apposed to having to buy 1.2 metres from BMW.
Parts all off the bike so next we'll see if I've remembered where they all go when putting it back together.
Thanks in anticipation. Need to buy it tommorrow so I can get it all back together before the Gathering next week.
Steve
Warthog
Registered user
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Having bought a large tank from Mr Elderfield, I did the swap. Easy in mechanical terms. A bit fiddly, but not complicated.
Also a good time to do Steptoe's fule filter outside the tank mod.
I did this. After faffing getting the tank off and swapping internals, I can well see why it would be a pain to do that at each fuel flter change.
Recommended.
Also a good time to do Steptoe's fule filter outside the tank mod.
I did this. After faffing getting the tank off and swapping internals, I can well see why it would be a pain to do that at each fuel flter change.
Recommended.
Geordie Foote
Registered user
Fuel line diameter....
Fuel line diameter is 6mm, thats the inner measurement. I think thats an industry standard. Top tip, buy more than you need, its always good to have a spare length. And lastly dont forget to get a shed load of clamps 9-13mm.
Feel free to fire any more questions, Im in all day, board, its pi**ing down!!
Fuel line diameter is 6mm, thats the inner measurement. I think thats an industry standard. Top tip, buy more than you need, its always good to have a spare length. And lastly dont forget to get a shed load of clamps 9-13mm.
Feel free to fire any more questions, Im in all day, board, its pi**ing down!!
Most car spares shops will have fuel hose, in a selection of diameters.
If your using any fuelline inside the fueltank, you must get the correct type hose that can be immersed in fuel. Standard fuel line isn't made to be immersed in petrol. BMW K series fuel tank internal hose is the best.
I wouldn't bother doing the outside fuel filter modification. Next fuelfilter change, mine is going back inside the tank. I've used several different types of fuel hose, and they all show signs of perishing on the bends of the outside hose.
Maybe because of the acute bends needed to fit everything in the available space.
And it's not that much a bother changing it inside the tank so long as the tank isn't full.
Plus the more joins in any system means more potential failure. Just my 2p's worth .
Sorry but one more question...
Forgot about ordering the O-ring seals and have had to go to 2 diffeent dealers as neither had both. Whilst buying the filler cap 'O-ring' I noticed on the exploded view on the parts microfiche that there was what appeared to be TWO ring type thingamees. One was decribed as the 'O-ring' and the other as 'gasket'. I bought the O-ring and now doubt has set in as to whether I have the right one. The lad behind the counter wasn't exactly sure which was which. The O-ring I bought is round. No, I mean the rubber is round and not flat as the gasket appeard to be on the microfiche.
Question is..have I bought the correct one? Or is the 'gasket' the one I need?
Who said this would be starightforward. Hope putting the thing together is less confusing.
Any bored members around who can advise before I go to pick the 90 degree QR connector and fuel pump O-ring.
Forgot about ordering the O-ring seals and have had to go to 2 diffeent dealers as neither had both. Whilst buying the filler cap 'O-ring' I noticed on the exploded view on the parts microfiche that there was what appeared to be TWO ring type thingamees. One was decribed as the 'O-ring' and the other as 'gasket'. I bought the O-ring and now doubt has set in as to whether I have the right one. The lad behind the counter wasn't exactly sure which was which. The O-ring I bought is round. No, I mean the rubber is round and not flat as the gasket appeard to be on the microfiche.
Question is..have I bought the correct one? Or is the 'gasket' the one I need?
Who said this would be starightforward. Hope putting the thing together is less confusing.
Any bored members around who can advise before I go to pick the 90 degree QR connector and fuel pump O-ring.
O rings.
The O ring for the pump assembly is about 4" in dia and about 5mm thickness and is round. You don't require a new one the old one will do, the o ring under the filler is much smaller thickness and a bit smaller diameter.
If your having problems look at the ones on your original tank as they are the same. This conversion is really a simple job so don't worry about it just do it.
I quite agree about outside filters not worth the hassel, q.d. connectors are the answer and in any case filters are fragile and if hit by a stone will puncture.
For good insight into spares go to bob's bmw site and look at the micro fish
this will show you all you need to know.
dave (adventure tank).gs
The O ring for the pump assembly is about 4" in dia and about 5mm thickness and is round. You don't require a new one the old one will do, the o ring under the filler is much smaller thickness and a bit smaller diameter.
If your having problems look at the ones on your original tank as they are the same. This conversion is really a simple job so don't worry about it just do it.
I quite agree about outside filters not worth the hassel, q.d. connectors are the answer and in any case filters are fragile and if hit by a stone will puncture.
For good insight into spares go to bob's bmw site and look at the micro fish
this will show you all you need to know.
dave (adventure tank).gs
Geordie Foote
Registered user
Steve....
The smaller o ring that you have bought is indeed the one you need to fit the filler cap assembly to the tank.
The gasget is to seal the filler cap to the filler cap assembly. Unlock your filler cap, you should now be able to see the gasget.
Note: The 2 tank o rings do not need replacing everytime you swap your internals, only if they are damaged.
Note 2: Once you have removed your internals, you may notice that the o rings seem to be bigger that you require. Sinply leave them to one side for half an hour or so and they will return to there normal size. Something to do with them expanding due to the fuel....I think!!
The smaller o ring that you have bought is indeed the one you need to fit the filler cap assembly to the tank.
The gasget is to seal the filler cap to the filler cap assembly. Unlock your filler cap, you should now be able to see the gasget.
Note: The 2 tank o rings do not need replacing everytime you swap your internals, only if they are damaged.
Note 2: Once you have removed your internals, you may notice that the o rings seem to be bigger that you require. Sinply leave them to one side for half an hour or so and they will return to there normal size. Something to do with them expanding due to the fuel....I think!!
