how much wobble /movement should there be in the back wheel

[sword]

I have an 03 1150 with 23k on the clock. I have noticed a bit of a wobble from the back wheel and was wondering what the standard amount of movement should be .I would appreciate any advice as to what to look for before I start dismantling the rear end of my bike.Thanks

 

[motobiker]

Simple answer - NONE.

could be the paralever bearing on its way out... needs tightening. do a search on here... loads to read on how to fix.

 

[good'oleboy]

Hi sword, I take it you mean that if you hold the rear wheel you can feel sideways movement. If this is so I believe there shouldn't be any. If memory serves me right I think that the bearing behind the wheel is Knackered this would cause the wheel to wobble. Also check out the swing arm bearings while you are at it. Maybe some of the other more knowledgable tossers could help you out.The haynes manual may help abit if you are tackling the job yourself, anyway good luck Dave.

 

[Dragon Master]

Hi Sword,

As said above, there shouldn't be any movement. I dunno about the bearing in the final drive, mine went a few years back and I couldn't detect any movement on the wheel, but I have had the pivot bearings go. Grab the wheel top and bottom and try to move it sideways as you watch the final drive/swing arm joint, you should be able to see if there's any rotational movement between them, again there shouldn't be any. If there is, it's your pivot bearings. Re-tightening them might help (read manual), but if they need changing it's not a major issue, just replaced mine today, shouldn't take more than a n hour start to finish. About £35.00 for new bearings from Motorworks.

Cheers,

Dave.

 

[sword]

Re wheel wobble

Thanks for the replies. It sounds like I should definitely have a go at the job and comforting to know I can always refer to this site fi I have a few bits left over.Roll on the weekend.

 

[ELIMINATOR]

Just be aware if you're tightening your paralever bearings that Loctite is used on them. This requires heating before attempting to either tighten or remove them, failure to do so may result in stripped threads.

Read this, I haven't done this job myself, but watched ot being done to my bike.


http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/Paraleler tool.html

 

[tagesk]

Handjob

Read this, I haven't done this job myself, but watched ot being done to my bike.
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/Paraleler tool.html

Two comments.

That special tool isn't needed. You set the RHS with all the torque that is required. You don't need Locktiht on it. Make a mark with a black pen and make it a habit to glance at it when whenever you see the bike. Before you say think about the torque in question, and look at your lugs holding your rear wheel. Do you use Locktight on those?

To set those dreaded 7Nm of torque, without tools, is explained here.

On the LHS you mark the newly set bolt with a pen, snug in the lock-nut with your fingers, hold the bolt with an allan while you tighten the lock nut firmly with a normal wrench. Then, when you attach your torque wrench to get those 130Nm your bolt will not move.
This has been discussed at lenght over at GSpot on ADVrider, and an overwhelming majority said their didn't move.

Now, 40.000 km later, I think it is safe to conclude that those bearings were installed correctly.

[TaSK]