I have just changed the fuel level sensor on my 1200GSA here is a quick how to. left side of bike is as you would sit on it for reference
Tools required:
Hammer
Big screwdriver
torx bits to fit pannel bolts
torch
Lenght of pipe
container for fuel (depending on how full you tank is) if it is full you will have to remove the fuel BEFORE you start the job, syphening out from the filler cap, if your tank is nearly empty then you will be fine.
This is what you are replacing and what you get for your money
Ignore the sticker to the bottom right this is ontop of the fridge in the garage for the beers.
1. Remove both seats
2. Remove all panels on left side, there are three plus the small infill panel
3. Remove all panels on right hand side, there are three, plus the infill panel
4. Remove filler cap, 6 bolts and when lifting out take note to which way round the 3 rubbers below it go.
5. Remove centre panel
6. Remove upper section of mudguard, there are 2 bolts either side, pull forward carfully prising the sides outwards and it will come loose and come free. You will need to unclip the canbus lead if you have one fitted on this like I have.
7. Now you can get to the wires and fuel pipe to the top of the tank on the left side, remove these from their homes and put outof the way.
8. Take the big screwdriver (or you can buy/ make the proper tool to do this there really is no need though) and gently tap in counter clock wise motion on the metal outer ring with the loops on the top as in the pic above, this will come loose and you will be able to unscrew it by hand after a couple of knocks.
9. Once this is off you can now remove the fuel pump, carefully pull on the top bits and it should come loose with a good tug, be carefull not to damage anything when taking it out. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES USE A SCREWDRIVER TO PRIZE IT OUT OR YOU WILL DAMAGE THE SEAL AND NEED A NEW ONE.
10. Left in place should be a rubber sealing ring, take this should be checked for signs of wear and tear. if it looks bad replace.
11. On the bottom of the fuel pump will be a wire with a conector to the bottom, this will lead inside of the tank and go up to the top of the fuel level sensor, the top of the fuel level sensor is attached to the top of the filler ring, you will need to undo the wires on the pump and pull the fuel level sensor out from the top.
12. Refit the new sensor the same way you removed it and connect up the wire to the fuel punp
13. When refitting the fuel pump make sure that the sealing ring for the fuel pump is seated properly before you reinsert it.
All the rest of the job is a reverse of the above. I hope this saves you a few pounds getting a garage to do it, its not a hard job to do.
spike
Tools required:
Hammer
Big screwdriver
torx bits to fit pannel bolts
torch
Lenght of pipe
container for fuel (depending on how full you tank is) if it is full you will have to remove the fuel BEFORE you start the job, syphening out from the filler cap, if your tank is nearly empty then you will be fine.
This is what you are replacing and what you get for your money
Ignore the sticker to the bottom right this is ontop of the fridge in the garage for the beers.
1. Remove both seats
2. Remove all panels on left side, there are three plus the small infill panel
3. Remove all panels on right hand side, there are three, plus the infill panel
4. Remove filler cap, 6 bolts and when lifting out take note to which way round the 3 rubbers below it go.
5. Remove centre panel
6. Remove upper section of mudguard, there are 2 bolts either side, pull forward carfully prising the sides outwards and it will come loose and come free. You will need to unclip the canbus lead if you have one fitted on this like I have.
7. Now you can get to the wires and fuel pipe to the top of the tank on the left side, remove these from their homes and put outof the way.
8. Take the big screwdriver (or you can buy/ make the proper tool to do this there really is no need though) and gently tap in counter clock wise motion on the metal outer ring with the loops on the top as in the pic above, this will come loose and you will be able to unscrew it by hand after a couple of knocks.
9. Once this is off you can now remove the fuel pump, carefully pull on the top bits and it should come loose with a good tug, be carefull not to damage anything when taking it out. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES USE A SCREWDRIVER TO PRIZE IT OUT OR YOU WILL DAMAGE THE SEAL AND NEED A NEW ONE.
10. Left in place should be a rubber sealing ring, take this should be checked for signs of wear and tear. if it looks bad replace.
11. On the bottom of the fuel pump will be a wire with a conector to the bottom, this will lead inside of the tank and go up to the top of the fuel level sensor, the top of the fuel level sensor is attached to the top of the filler ring, you will need to undo the wires on the pump and pull the fuel level sensor out from the top.
12. Refit the new sensor the same way you removed it and connect up the wire to the fuel punp
13. When refitting the fuel pump make sure that the sealing ring for the fuel pump is seated properly before you reinsert it.
All the rest of the job is a reverse of the above. I hope this saves you a few pounds getting a garage to do it, its not a hard job to do.
spike
). Once fitted do you turn the ignition on before you put any fuel back in the tank so that the computer knows the tanks empty ? Or do you mean that it HAS to be calibrated by BMW once fitted and in a dry state ? I've done a search but it's all a bit confusing, some posts read as if you just chuck the thing in and it sorts itself and others that it has to be told where it's at by BMW
Oh and quoted me £195.82 fitted.
