Rodeo Ron
Registered user
A few folk have commented about occasionally getting loudish clacks from the gearbox when changing gear. This seems to be caused by part of the change mechanism hitting its travel stop at the end of each stroke.
An effective cure is to prevent this stop being reached, or at least to significantly reduce the impact force in play when it is reached. This is done by limiting your foot movement to no more than just the distance needed in order to change the ratio rather than, as is a common occurrence, of using much greater movement and force than is needed. But how much force and movement is necessary? A good guide is: instead of applying the movement and effort you habitually apply in order to change gear... reduce both to that needed to find a false neutral between the gear you are moving out of and the gear you are looking for. A smidge of pre-load on the lever makes things easier. There seem not to be any false neutrals so this is ok to do.
By doing this, and by using full clutch lever travel, from setting 4 if you can reach, I quickly achieved more than 90% success rate of silent or near silent changes both up and down and I have expectations of reaching close to 100%. The knack is easier to acquire in road and dynamic modes than in the rain setting as, in my case anyway, rev sync is easier to time accurately.
Although it may take some folk longer than others, It does not take too long to reprogram your muscle memory to the state when everything becomes automatic, it’s almost like going through the same process as changing from BMW’s much missed, by some anyway, 3 button indicator system to the new 1 button switch.
It works beautifully for me, good luck to all who persist until they have it cracked.
An effective cure is to prevent this stop being reached, or at least to significantly reduce the impact force in play when it is reached. This is done by limiting your foot movement to no more than just the distance needed in order to change the ratio rather than, as is a common occurrence, of using much greater movement and force than is needed. But how much force and movement is necessary? A good guide is: instead of applying the movement and effort you habitually apply in order to change gear... reduce both to that needed to find a false neutral between the gear you are moving out of and the gear you are looking for. A smidge of pre-load on the lever makes things easier. There seem not to be any false neutrals so this is ok to do.
By doing this, and by using full clutch lever travel, from setting 4 if you can reach, I quickly achieved more than 90% success rate of silent or near silent changes both up and down and I have expectations of reaching close to 100%. The knack is easier to acquire in road and dynamic modes than in the rain setting as, in my case anyway, rev sync is easier to time accurately.
Although it may take some folk longer than others, It does not take too long to reprogram your muscle memory to the state when everything becomes automatic, it’s almost like going through the same process as changing from BMW’s much missed, by some anyway, 3 button indicator system to the new 1 button switch.
It works beautifully for me, good luck to all who persist until they have it cracked.
Pardon,
