How to use clutch for swift take off on 1150GS?

[metallic_lt]

Hello,

At the moment I am always dragging a clutch a little bit to take off:

1. Engaging clutch together with putting 1st gear in
2. Slow acceleration together with releasing clutch to 75%
3. Bike start moving, I release clutch completely and accelerating.

I am conscious that I my dragging clutch. This is my first bike with hydraulic clutch and it doesn’t give me any feel when clutch bites. Could somebody explain the correct way and how to swiftly take off as well?

Many Thanks

 

[JJH]

I think you are worrying too much. Just don't think about it. Pull in lever select 1st feed power and " balance" release of clutch to suit. That's assuming that every thing is working as it should. Maby the feel of the boxer is putting you off. If you are thinking of 75% you are very percise. Is the clutch slipping? The more throttle you give it the faster it will take off. Carefull now!!! Jjh

 

[Bem]

The clutch and torque reaction do take a little getting used to. I have no idea of your previous, but can recall I spent ages trying to find a way to make a "speedy start" on my 1150 (don`t ask why!) Eventually this came down to - easing out the clutch to biting point at tickover, then progressively increasing revs almost as clutch was out ie accelerating on the engine revs, rather than slipping the clutch beyond 2500rpm.
HTH
Brian

 

[pce13]

On my 2002 GS i pull in the clutch lever approx 1/2 inch to engage 1st gear, if i pull it in fully gear will not engage!
my mates 2002 GS is exactly the same! select first gear give it a slight twist of throttle and release the clutch.
It's all about feel! learning how your bike feels on the biting point, when released too quickly, released too slowly (riding clutch)
riding the clutch i would not worry about at all, it's all a learning curve, getting to know your bike!
that's what makes biking so great, each bike is different even if made same year and month.
Your bike is your bike and you have to learn it's characteristics, it's what makes biking fun...

 

[hops]

Slipping the clutch on these type of bikes is not to be recommended as they do burn out/overheat quickly in my experience. Start off fairly leisurely in first, get the clutch fully disengaged as soon as you can and give it plenty of right hand when and only the clutch lever is fully released.

 

[MarkShelley]

The 1100 is much easier to make a quick getaway on I reckon. Probably more to do with the ratio in 1st than the cable clutch

 

[Wreford Miles]

....don't ask just practice.

And if you find yourself having to think about this action or just feeling the need to focus your mind on this particular sequence of what should be automatic actions rather than observing the shyte going on around you I would consider taking the bus for your own and others saftey

 

[Grim Rider]

I suspect it is thinking about a "swift takeoff" which is your problem here - it is an 1150GS and tends to like doing things at its own speed . Once you get going clutch less changes are fairly easy once you get used to riding the thing; I rarely use the clutch lever except to get into first and when stopping.

 

[Slipperyeel]

Only just seen this thread. But I can only guess this is the op's first 1150 as I can identify with the question.

When I first got my GS (i should say "first got a GS" - first was flippin nicked!) I did have to 'learn' how to ride it and pulling away was one of those details.

In the end and it remains the same (it's going to sound daft) just giving it a bigger handful of throttle is the answer. No feathering of the clutch. Just let that out and accelerate, but probably more throttle than you're used to. With a Japanese bike it's very different as you have a lot more feel of the clutch in relation to throttle and it's bite...




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[Ogmios]

My 2 cents,
Do exactly as the first two replies suggest.
The only thing i can add is to really look for and FEEL the biting point.
Do it (irony dept ) slowly.
Ride around it and play at slow take offs. Again, noting the biting point.
This will show you at exactly which point in clutch release you can add more throttle and totally release clutch without stalling or over revving - just 'brisk progress'.
FWIW, i've taught this to riders of novice standard to RoSPA Gold and it's worked on them all... so far.
Good Luck - and ENJOY!

 

[Slipperyeel]

My 2 cents,
Do exactly as the first two replies suggest.
The only thing i can add is to really look for and FEEL the biting point.
Do it (irony dept ) slowly.
Ride around it and play at slow take offs. Again, noting the biting point.
This will show you at exactly which point in clutch release you can add more throttle and totally release clutch without stalling or over revving - just 'brisk progress'.
FWIW, i've taught this to riders of novice standard to RoSPA Gold and it's worked on them all... so far.
Good Luck - and ENJOY!

The op did say he wanted a 'swift' take off. The first two replies didn't really emphasise the need for more throttle to achieve this...which personally I'd say was one of the key details (I'm assuming on tarmac of course). These bikes seem to need a little encouragement!

 

[Slipperyeel]

Just another thought and probably aimed more at those more experienced with these bikes. But maybe there's nothing wrong with the op's operation of the bike and something else is up? As simple as the clutch slipping perhaps?

Metallic_it. As far as you know, is the bike working as it should? Might be hard to answer of you've not had one before!

 

[Tsiklonaut]

IMO, cable clutch does have better feel over what you're doing, it gives you feedback. Hydraulic clutch takes much more practice on the position of your fingers rather than the nonexistant feedback it gives you. Longer 1st means longer clutching on takeoff, simple as that. Practice, practice!

Ditto 1100 on having 1st gear ratio for quick liftoff w/o killing any clutch while it gives you enough optimum speed to go into 2nd and on. IMO, the standard 1150 1st gear is just too tall and special-order 1150 GS ADV box'es 1st is too short (works wonders in slow-moving traffic jams though!). In fact rato-wise the 1100 box would be ideal for 1150 too if it had just a slightly longer 5th. There's decency in 5-gear box, it's just feels and performs right. Like on cars the 6-gear boxes on bikes were made mainly for marketing hype to have that magic "number" the clients search, "economy" gear or whatever they call it ( ) (i.e. 1150 top speed is slower than 1100 while 1150 has longer 6th gear - it just doesn't have enough power to fight against the wind). Never liked kicking and fiddling through all 6 gears all the time anyway, if it's a bike or a cager. I'll get me coat now

 

[Steptoe]

IMO, cable clutch does have better feel over what you're doing, it gives you feedback. Hydraulic clutch takes much more practice on the position of your fingers rather than the nonexistant feedback it gives you. Longer 1st means longer clutching on takeoff, simple as that. Practice, practice!

Ditto 1100 on having 1st gear ratio for quick liftoff w/o killing any clutch while it gives you enough optimum speed to go into 2nd and on. IMO, the standard 1150 1st gear is just too tall and special-order 1150 GS ADV box'es 1st is too short (works wonders in slow-moving traffic jams though!). In fact rato-wise the 1100 box would be ideal for 1150 too if it had just a slightly longer 5th. There's decency in 5-gear box, it's just feels and performs right. Like on cars the 6-gear boxes on bikes were made mainly for marketing hype to have that magic "number" the clients search, "economy" gear or whatever they call it ( ) (i.e. 1150 top speed is slower than 1100 while 1150 has longer 6th gear - it just doesn't have enough power to fight against the wind). Never liked kicking and fiddling through all 6 gears all the time anyway, if it's a bike or a cager. I'll get me coat now

Yes lovely, the sun is shining and the birds are singing in the deep blue sky.............Just a shame the 5 speed box is so fragile and fails so often

 

[Myke Rocks]

You did ask:

[h=2]How to use clutch for swift take off on 1150GS?[/h]Put bike on mainstand.
These bikes are perfectly balanced on the stand.
Position yourself on the seat to have some weight on the rear wheel.
Engage first, Rev it up and dump clutch fast.
You have just lit the blue torch paper.
Myke

 

[sykospain]

These bikes have Dry clutches. A dry clutch should NEVER be slipped. Steptoe's sardonic reply puts it in context, I feel. He's the expert...There should be never be any kind whatsoever of 'feel' of a graduated take-off on a dry hydo clutch. A Jap bike with a multi-plate clutch immersed in oil: yes. But a BMW R-series clutch - never. I n or o u t. That's all.
To take off, snick into first, immediately let go of the lever and bang on a good handful of revs. That way, the only other bike that beats my Rockster off the red light is either a big Duke or an R1.
AL in s.e. Spain

 

[Giles]

All you 11** owners .......

You'd be ribbing the 1200 section if this was in there .....

(Just saying like .... )

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Try adjusting the clutch adjusting ring in the side of lever. Made a difference for me.

Here sykospain, I challenge you to a 100 m drag race with my r850r. I will win. My 850 is the fastest bike way from the lights, first time by time. The. 1150' much harder to hustle.

OP. KEEP THE FAITH, IT IS POSSIBLE!

 

[fizzer]

over a fortnight on this thread,when i first read it i thought it was a wind up .pulling away balls out or filtering through traffic and using your clutch,if you cant do either hand your licence back.

 

[sykospain]

Yes, the first 'new-style' boxer I had 20 years ago was an 850R - never sold in the USA. A lovely bike and when I swapped it for an 1100 I couldn't tell the difference really. But the 1150 Rockster is a real go'er. Polished ports as OEM, better pistons, bigger back tyre, etc. No I honestly think it's faster than an 850 up to the legal limit.