I need to refurbish

[Packer]

my 1150GS.

It is now in it's 7th winter of use and neglect. Winter 1 I just used it and rinsed it off occasionally. Winter 2 and 3 someone told me about Scotoil 365(?) so I used that and then discovered ACF50 which I have used since then. However the damage had already been done and large slabs of paint are peeling off the engine and gearbox. The rear subframe is gradually transforming from black painted steel to ferrous oxide and it is time for a refurbishment.

The bike seems to go as well as it ever has and the mileage is only 57½K so I don't want to start tearing it down.

First question is can the entire engine, gearbox unit be blasted and repainted as one lump?

Second question, any suggestions as to who could provide a top quality service to do this? The bike is a keeper so I don't mind spending money on it.

Next, I have mechanical sympathy so don't abuse the clutch etc. but would it be sensible to at least seperate the engine and box for inspection or can I happily expect it to last 100k miles?

If I do get the whole lump blasted and painted as a single piece am I going to have problems with damage to the finish when repair or maintenance is required in the future?

What finish would be the most durable for the subframe?

Lastly, I don't want a 1200 and even if I did I'd need to do someting to the 1150 or pay someone to take it away

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

So us some pics of what you're trying to correct

I wouldn't split the engine and box until its ready to do some work ie new clutch

Difficult to repaint the whole engine in situ, and the labour to mask it up would be extortionate

Search and see what others have done to a 'part patch' up

Subframe is pretty easy to remove and have powdercoated, as are ancillaries like footrests/stands/handlebars

Hammerite smooth silver will be your friend

 

[Schtum]

I think even if someone would blast and paint the whole engine assembly as one, it's not a good idea. You really want to dismantle the engine into its external sub assemblies, ie rocker covers, cylinder heads, cylinder barrels, sump and separate the crankcase from the gearbox. It's not a good idea to paint over a machined mating surface.

As to finish, I'd suggest that the best is two-pack epoxy, if you can find someone whose solvent allocation allows them to do this.

My recommendation is on the other side of the country from you but I think it's worth it. Talk to Lindsay Henderson at Henderson's Metal Cleaning Service. http://www.hendersonsmetalcleaning.co.uk/

Lindsay's a really nice guy and a bit of a star with a paintgun. I got him to paint the rocker covers off Mike O's bike and he painted most of the parts, including the frame, on a friend's VFR. I've also had him do several sets of alloy wheels both for me and other people. A good guy who takes care with his work. I don't get commission but he is the brother-in-law of a friend and ex-colleague of mine and that's how I know him.

 

[sproggy]

I will be facing this task on my 850 in the spring. Well, the engine anyway - the subframe is fine. Pretty much the whole engine needs re-painting so probably a similar situation to you.

I plan to do the work myself because it's mostly unskilled labour and this is what I have in mind:

1. Remove forks (they also need repainting), fork bridge (ditto) and telelever wishbone.
2. Remove tank (maybe not necessary, but easy), throttle bodies, belly pan, exhaust headers (also need re-finishing) and anything else easily removed from the outside of the engine.
3. Remove the front cover from the engine (not the plastic one - the metal one that supports the alternator) and paint that off the bike - easier, and will probably give a better finish.
4. Mask off things like inlet and exhaust ports, front of engine, rocker covers etc, degrease, wire brush, degrease again, rub down (etc) all of the engine.

I have no intention of splitting the engine into its constituent parts when it doesn't need a rebuild - maybe that's the optimum solution for painting but it's not practical or economical IMO.

Then paint it and put it all back together with stainless bolts wherever possible. New oil seal on the front cover, new alternator belt.

I had been planning to use etch primer and then smooth hammerite but someone recommended Wurth paint recently so I've yet to decide.

 

[MikeP]

I had been planning to use etch primer and then smooth hammerite but someone recommended Wurth paint recently so I've yet to decide.

I tried (and used Wurth) on my K75 tart-up (against my experience of Hammerite). I've had to re-do some parts in Hammerite. The Wurth stuff is less forgiving to apply and isn't as tough.

I've currently got my 1150GSA in pieces and doing a similar job. I'm using Hammerite Smooth Satin Black for everything that needs re-painting.

 

[sproggy]

I tried (and used Wurth) on my K75 tart-up (against my experience of Hammerite). I've had to re-do some parts in Hammerite. The Wurth stuff is less forgiving to apply and isn't as tough.

Good to know Of course the added bonus is that Hammerite is a fair bit cheaper than Wurth and doesn't need a lacquer either.

 

[Packer]

Then paint it and put it all back together with stainless bolts wherever possible.

Remember that stainles reacts much more with aluminium and magnesium than plain steel. I'll look for the thread were someone recommended a special paint to inhibit corrosion in the threads.

 

[Packer]

So us some pics of what you're trying to correct

I wouldn't split the engine and box until its ready to do some work ie new clutch

Difficult to repaint the whole engine in situ, and the labour to mask it up would be extortionate

Search and see what others have done to a 'part patch' up

Subframe is pretty easy to remove and have powdercoated, as are ancillaries like footrests/stands/handlebars

Hammerite smooth silver will be your friend

These are two of the bad bits that I can see

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2562/4209035640_73dddd4d5d.jpg

The front cover is also manky along with the crankcase area to which it is affixed.

What I don't want to do is a local repair which looks like a l0ocal repair and then starts flaking away at the join in another few months.

 

[MikeP]

Remember that stainles reacts much more with aluminium and magnesium than plain steel. I'll look for the thread were someone recommended a special paint to inhibit corrosion in the threads.

Try this stuff:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AEROSOL-SOLUT...ultDomain_3?hash=item2ea939f080#ht_1047wt_732

I've not used it aerosol form, I have a tub of it as a paste, but since using Alu-Slip, I've never had a problem with anything seizing in aluminium threads.

 

[Stumpy]

Why not just keep it lagged in ACF50

You have never been a "polisher" and your bike always has a nice "well used" but "well maintained" style about it. Its unlikely you will sell it for a long time, if ever. Spend the money on fuel or gin and if you ever need to take the engine apart in the future well have it done then

 

[rockchunk]

Why not just keep it lagged in ACF50

You have never been a "polisher" and your bike always has a nice "well used" but "well maintained" style about it. Its unlikely you will sell it for a long time, if ever. Spend the money on fuel or gin and if you ever need to take the engine apart in the future well have it done then

+ 1 to the above ,,makes seance to me

 

[Schtum]

+ 1 to the above ,,makes seance to me

.....in the medium term, at least.

 

[Packer]

It's already coated in ACF50 but the rot is under the paint and spreading. I can see the value dropping faster than my RBS shares in the last 3 months.

Seriously, is the corrosion simply a surface and superfifical problem or is it going to eat through thegearbox/ crankcases in another year or two and render the otherwise superb mechanicals useless?

 

[monkeyboy]

I got my GSA a few years ago from a bloke that had used it for a year then then put it away dirty in his garage for 2 years before I bought it. The corrosion is shocking. The rear subframe is begining to look like that one on eBay for the last two months. All the paint on the engine fins is falling off and the rear wheel centre has serious metal acne. The tips of the clutch and brake resovoirs are nearly clean of paint and the mirror stems seem to have developed the ebola virus. It's done 70k now and it's used every day without any sort of preventative treatment but it doesn't effect the physical operation of the bike and never will. There is no way it will rot through or corrode beyond chucking the paint off (for the major aluminium parts anyway) and as long as the bike keeps being used and getting warm then I'm confident it'll keep going. As you rightly say, anything but the full dismantle and proper repaint is going to look like a pikey eBay special IMO so you might as well go for the 'used abused and proud' look, especially as it's a keeper and so it really doesn't matter how much it's worth to anyone else

 

[motobiker]

KTMark... I believe stripped and repainted his engine block, using a hot air blower and a stiff brush. And subsequently repainted the thing - Hammrite..

I've seen it: it looks rather good. (I'm sure he'll be along to elaborate)

 

[Mzokk]

If you are painting anything with hamerite use the special metals primer. I've done me fork lowers and fork bridge off the bike and the lower portion of the camchain tunnels and front of the barrels and I think the finish and longevity of the finish is better than original if this primer is used before the topcoats are applied

 

[RIXTER]

hammerite

Do hammerite or anyone else do paints for the barrels & heads? Wanna do mine but want to do 'em while they're still on the bike.Any tips for prepping & painting fellas ?

 

[waldo]

stainless bolts

Remember that stainles reacts much more with aluminium and magnesium than plain steel. I'll look for the thread were someone recommended a special paint to inhibit corrosion in the threads.

I'm a new arrival so I just found this- hi everybody! THE thing to use is zinc chromate paste- trade name Duralac. Put a blob on the threads before you screw the bolts in. Using this stuff stainless bolts can be withdrawn from aluminium masts after years in a salty environment. I'm a yacht surveyor and all too familiar with the problems of disimilar metals in hostile conditions. Buy it online or from a good chandlery.