identify part for f800gs

OMG_WTF

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Hello Awesome People,
I'm having problems identifying a part. It's a rivet nut that goes into the rear subframe. I hope I'm describing it correctly.
Here's a pic:
stuck4.JPG


It is what #6 screws into.

MicroImage.aspx


You can see the rivet nut in this diagram. It is on the right hand side of the photo.
MicroImage.aspx



Any idea what it is? I'd like to order a new one. It looks like BMW wants me to buy a new subframe. :blast
Thanks.
 
If it the threads that are damaged try running a tap in there. If not install a Helicoil. You wont be able to replace the rivnut with out special tools
 
yikes!
not what i wanted to hear.
i thought i could just drive one in using a mallet or something.

i may just put a nut on
the side where rivnut would have been.
 
You can put a rivnut in place without the tool - you need a bolt the same size as the new rivnut (or sometimes called nutserts), a spanner / ratchet for the bolt, a nut the same thread as the bolt, a few washers and some grease.

Drill the threads out of the nut so it is a close but free fit over the threads of the nut. Get the new rivnut in place, pop some grease in between the washers (use 2 or 3) and in between the bottom washer and the drilled-out nut.

To set the rivnut, hold the drilled-out nut with a spanner whilst tightening the bolt with a ratchet. You are aiming for a good friction between the nut and the rivnut, so if the rivnut slips hopelessly file some striations into the nut so that it grips.

Easy once you've tried a few - taken me longer to type this than to set a rivnut!
 
i wonder why there is a rivnut there to begin with.
the rivnut appears to have sheared into two pieces: the collar piece and the piece with the threads. :blast
i haven't retrieved it yet.

is there a downside to just backing up the bolt with a washer and nyloc nut??

thx for the responses.
 
The rivetnut tool isn't expensive, I had to buy one to fit a dog guard in my old Discovery. If you were local (which you're clearly not!), then you'd be welcome to borrow mine. The 'work around' above looks like a good solution.
 
haha..yes... you all come from places whose names sound somewhat...familar....instead of "new jersey"...it's "jersey"...."york"..."new york"....
and why do they call it "new england"? it's over 400 years old!!
:pullface

hopefully i'll get this all worked out soon. i'm just trying to put a friggin' luggage rack on.....:tears
 
haha..yes... you all come from places whose names sound somewhat...familar....instead of "new jersey"...it's "jersey"...."york"..."new york"....
and why do they call it "new england"? it's over 400 years old!!
:pullface

hopefully i'll get this all worked out soon. i'm just trying to put a friggin' luggage rack on.....:tears

If you ever get over here, you'll realise that 400 years is quite new!
 
Its difficult to get at the frame in that area, all the plastics need removing to get at the nut, but need to be refitted before you can bolt the rack on.
I had a similar problem with the pannier rack fitting, two bolt fit in holes next to the ones you are having problems with. One fitted easily but the next cross threaded a bit, when I tried to unscrew it for another go the tiny weld holding the nut in place snapped off. The bolt is still in place and I have no way to remove it or fully tighten it up.

One Idea for fixing your problem,
Knock out both nuts and remove them.
Cut a length of steel bar 3mm thick to slide into the frame, mark off the hole positions and remove.
Drill clearance holes through the bar.
Weld m? nuts under the clear holes.
Insert the bar into the frame and check the holes line up.
Refit all the plastics and you should now have access to two nice new threaded holes. No spanner is needed to tighten as the bar prevents rotation.
 
Its difficult to get at the frame in that area, all the plastics need removing to get at the nut, but need to be refitted before you can bolt the rack on.
I had a similar problem with the pannier rack fitting, two bolt fit in holes next to the ones you are having problems with. One fitted easily but the next cross threaded a bit, when I tried to unscrew it for another go the tiny weld holding the nut in place snapped off. The bolt is still in place and I have no way to remove it or fully tighten it up.

One Idea for fixing your problem,
Knock out both nuts and remove them.
Cut a length of steel bar 3mm thick to slide into the frame, mark off the hole positions and remove.
Drill clearance holes through the bar.
Weld m? nuts under the clear holes.
Insert the bar into the frame and check the holes line up.
Refit all the plastics and you should now have access to two nice new threaded holes. No spanner is needed to tighten as the bar prevents rotation.

The bolt I have is just spinning because the rivnut split into two pieces.
The bolt is in the hole that's furthest from the camera in this photo. (It is surrounded by spacers).
stuck4.JPG

As you mentioned, it is hard to get to the rivnut since it is in the rectangular subframe. I have to remove the plastic tail assembly, but the bolt gets in the way of the plastic.
Catch-22. :censor:
I get a dremel and took off the top of the bolt. Out came the spacers. After work tonight I'm going make another cut, hopefully close enough to allow me to peel back the plastic. I have to avoid cutting the plastic instead of the bolt!!
As you can see, the bolt is somewhat recessed under the plastic.
I have a dremel grinding bit that should help get closer as well.

Once I have everything out, I will reinstall. My hope is that I will be able to get a spanner+nut+washer underneath the bolt with all the plastics installed.
Maybe I can stick some tape on the nut+ spanner and reach in there. Haha....shows how desperate I am!!
As you can see in the photo, the plastic needs to go on before the bolt. I think I will have enough room to back the bolt up with a nut if everything is loose enough.

Your idea seems sound, though. The welded nut idea is better than the rivnut. Who am I to question German engineering? :rolleyes:
I hope my plan works, I do not want to do any welding.

Hopefully you can get your bolt out, too.

Funny how a small thing turns out to be a HUGE project.....:mad:
 
Ok. I got the rivnut out. I had to pry up the plastic and cut the bolt from underneath (between the frame and the plastic).

photo6.JPG


The plastic is slightly marred from me poking around, but it looks brand new from 10 feet away......
photo5.JPG
 
One Idea for fixing your problem,
Knock out both nuts and remove them.
Cut a length of steel bar 3mm thick to slide into the frame, mark off the hole positions and remove.
Drill clearance holes through the bar.
Weld m? nuts under the clear holes.
Insert the bar into the frame and check the holes line up.
Refit all the plastics and you should now have access to two nice new threaded holes. No spanner is needed to tighten as the bar prevents rotation.

you really understand my problem.
there isn't a lot of space there for me to get a nut behind the bolt.
what if....instead of welding i use JB weld ?
i could just stick the washer+nut under the hole in the frame.
~or~
what if i just duct tape the washer and nut behind the hole.
i just need it to stay there while i put the plastic back on, and to thread onto the bolt....but then again it will rotate.....

any ideas besides welding?:nenau
:blast:blast:blast:blast
 
There are some pretty good adhesives on the market these days. I seem to remember one titled something like 'no more welding'. So you could glue a nut into place. However, now you've got it apart you may as well stay with a new rivetnut. They cost pennies and are usually fit and forget. I doubt you'll have the same problem twice!
 
You are lucky to be able to get that one out,i had one of the riv nuts "go" in the sub frame.I was fitting a tool tube and hadn`t even tightened the bolt fully just pinched it.When i went to remove it for further adjustment it just rotated in the sub frame:( .Bless Vines though after i had explained it WAS a warrenty issue they replaced the sub frame.
 
I doubt you'll have the same problem twice!
I certainly hope so!

You are lucky to be able to get that one out,i had one of the riv nuts "go" in the sub frame.I was fitting a tool tube and hadn`t even tightened the bolt fully just pinched it.When i went to remove it for further adjustment it just rotated in the sub frame:( .Bless Vines though after i had explained it WAS a warrenty issue they replaced the sub frame.

Wow. I guess a lot of people have had this problem. I don't think mine is a warranty issue. I just need to be a lot more careful. I think the rivnut threads are purposely soft to prevent the bolt from coming off......


Does anyone know what the size rivet I need?
I will check it out myself, but it would be nice if someone could tell me if they know already. I don't want to order the wrong one.

What do you all think about this technique to install the rivnut?
http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/rivnuts.htm

Thanks!
 
What do you all think about this technique to install the rivnut?
http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/rivnuts.htm

Thanks!

Looks similar to siwhite's idea. Should work fine. I used to deal with 'Rivetnut' over here, exactly the same idea.

Don't forget that BMW's are metric! Atleast they are over here. I'm not sure what size thread this is, I think it is 8mm. However, I'm sure your dealer can tell you the thread size from the part number of the bolt.

I've just looked on RealOEM.com, and it looks to be 8mm. Put your vin No in and see.
 
Looks similar to siwhite's idea. Should work fine. I used to deal with 'Rivetnut' over here, exactly the same idea.

Don't forget that BMW's are metric! Atleast they are over here. I'm not sure what size thread this is, I think it is 8mm. However, I'm sure your dealer can tell you the thread size from the part number of the bolt.

I've just looked on RealOEM.com, and it looks to be 8mm. Put your vin No in and see.

Thx. I will check once I get home from work.
Your help is much appreciated.
 


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