Ignition cut-out R1100GS

[PROTON1]

This week I came back from a 7000 mile bike holiday in Romania and Moldavia and nearly home (I live in Belgium), at midnight in the pissing rain near Aachen on the Autobahn my bike died, no ignition...I suspected the Hall Sensor. At 3AM I managed to get towed away from a very dangerous location, next day the bike was trailered home by a mate. At home I inspected the bike and got a new Hall Sensor plate ready which I mounted. There was visibly nothing wrong with the old one the wiring looked OK. Still with the new Hall Sensors in place: no ignition. Then I checkd the ignition wiring from the key switch to the connector under the tank. I took the contact from the key lock by loosening the small grubscrew, I measured the wires through to the terminal socket under the tank. All wires intact. No ignition.
The HV Coil gets Voltage...I am a bit in limboland now. Does anyone has further ideas? The bike has just 100.000 km (60000miles), it behaved well the entire 6Kmile trip...

 

[hops]

A common problem

Is the wiring loom that attaches to the bottom of the ignition switch. Normally the loom is cable tied to the frame and over time the constant turning of the bars and limited slack in the cabling causes one or two of the contacts under the barrel to fail. It's fairly easy to replace the loom.

 

[MarkShelley]

Is the wiring loom that attaches to the bottom of the ignition switch. Normally the loom is cable tied to the frame and over time the constant turning of the bars and limited slack in the cabling causes one or two of the contacts under the barrel to fail. It's fairly easy to replace the loom.

Happened to my bike. Now I think about it I must update the ad for my bike to say it has recently had new HES, even though it didn`t need one

 

[PROTON1]

Is the wiring loom that attaches to the bottom of the ignition switch. Normally the loom is cable tied to the frame and over time the constant turning of the bars and limited slack in the cabling causes one or two of the contacts under the barrel to fail. It's fairly easy to replace the loom.

I did measure from from the soldering points on the barrel to the pins of the socket under the tank, all wires are OK. Are you saying the issue might be inside the barrrel?

 

[hops]

No it's normally the wires close to the soldered connection. I appreciate you say you've checked them with a meter but it's worth giving the loom a bit of a wiggle and strip back the insulation to have a good look near the loom.