Ignition Switch problem

Big Fred

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Hi to All,
Noticed today that the rear light and front sidelights weren't working.
However, wiggling the ignition key in the lock a little gets em working again but turning the key the whole way turns em off again. All other ignition functions/lights are fine. I suspect the ignition switch but before i start delving, has anyone else had this happen?
There is a large white plastic plug at the bottom of the ignition switch which i guess is the main connection, does this just pull out?
Pulling on the wiring here a little causes the fault to happen so i'm looking at a poor connection I think.
If this is the problem, Motorworks do a replacement. No problem, but if it turns out to be the ignition barrel, do i have to remove the whole lock to replace it? ( I'm thinking here about the shear bolts that are holding the lock to the headstock and how I don't want to tackle it!)
I've searched the forum and can't see it covered anywhere else
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
 
Sent you a pm with more info, its fairly straight forward to change the loom which is most likely at fault.

Cancel that youre not a subscriber it seems so I cant send a pm to you. pay your £12 for more info or try a search of the forums, its all in there.
 
The wiring to the switch may be the problem. Over time, it gets brittle and with flexing as the bars turn, you get a break. Give the wiring harness a waggle to check.

To remove the sub harness, look at the barrell of the switch. You'll see a blob of paint covering a small grub screw. Scrape it off, remove the screw and pull the white connector down - job done. You can then detach the sub harness at tghe point where it plugs into the main harness. Try Sherlocks or Motorworks for a sh replacement or buy new.
 
To remove the sub harness, look at the barrell of the switch. You'll see a blob of paint covering a small grub screw. Scrape it off, remove the screw and pull the white connector down - job done. You can then detach the sub harness at tghe point where it plugs into the main harness. Try Sherlocks or Motorworks for a sh replacement or buy new.

How useful is this if you need to hotwire an oilhead?
 
Thanks Scotboxer
That's very helpful. I'll have a go tomorrow and report back.
£12 eh? Remember when bikers used to help each other out for nothing?
 
Thanks Scotboxer
That's very helpful. I'll have a go tomorrow and report back.
£12 eh? Remember when bikers used to help each other out for nothing?

Hi Big Fred.. lots of guys on here in the trade and earn their living fixing bikes.... but i must say........ i pay my subs and the help and guidance i have received including phone calls to talk me through things has saved the £12.00 many many times over.... trust me its worth it!

if its the part ignition loom its easy enough to replace the main block is under the tank and the key end removal has allready been detailed..... get the part and its a ten minute job... common fault on older 1150s.
 
Hi Big Fred.. lots of guys on here in the trade and earn their living fixing bikes.... but i must say........ i pay my subs and the help and guidance i have received including phone calls to talk me through things has saved the £12.00 many many times over.... trust me its worth it!

if its the part ignition loom its easy enough to replace the main block is under the tank and the key end removal has allready been detailed..... get the part and its a ten minute job... common fault on older 1150s.

Funny how BMW does not learn from past mistakes, I had to do exactly this on a 90's K1100LT.
 
Funny how BMW does not learn from past mistakes, I had to do exactly this on a 90's K1100LT.

Never cable tie the ignition loom wiring, or cut the cable ties if you have them securing the ignition loom and you'll never have the problem.
 
.
£12 eh? Remember when bikers used to help each other out for nothing?

It was so Hops could send you a PM (one of the subscriber benefits) rather than post on a public forum how to steal your bike....

And if it wasn't for all those that pay their £12 yearly subs you wouldn't be able to ask here as it wouldn't exist. :rolleyes:
 
Well thats me told then.
Not like i was asking the earth though was it?
Thank you anyway

You weren't asked to cough up money - the only reason money was mentioned was so you could get the "delicate" info by PM, which is only available to subscribers.

But you took it the wrong way. :rolleyes:
 
Hi Big Fred.. lots of guys on here in the trade and earn their living fixing bikes.... but i must say........ i pay my subs and the help and guidance i have received including phone calls to talk me through things has saved the £12.00 many many times over.... trust me its worth it!
Thats a very fair point, I was obviously ignorant of this. Please accept my apologies.
But you took it the wrong way.
Yes I did and again, I apologise
If you don't like your free advice you know what to do.
Yes I do, of course. And you can be sure that I will. (pay the subscription, I mean)
 
You weren't asked to cough up money - the only reason money was mentioned was so you could get the "delicate" info by PM, which is only available to subscribers.

But you took it the wrong way. :rolleyes:

Mr Steptoe is right :). However, I did cut my wire loom loose and still had this problem. I had to open the switch and had to solder one wire and another wire had stretched and split. ;)
 
Just spent hours today trying to work my way through this same problem. Thinking it was fixed and switching off and screwing all back together again only to find when I turned the bugger back on the tail light was off again. So has any one got a part number for the fix on an 1100, please.
 
That info was only known to the experts on here and you get it for nothing . Pay up , we all pay for the advice and great help this site offers , we bikers still help each other for free .
 


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