Ignition Switch problems for 1985 R80 g/s

RPMDAKAR

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Hi, I have inherited Cynthia Milton's Round the World "Old Girl" R 80 g/s and am in the process of recommissioning the sorely neglected machine having been stood in a garage for some 15+ years.
Have managed to get the surface crap off and now attempting to see if the motor turns over but have a major issue with the ignition switch which only has 2 positions, off & parking lights, the wiring resembles an electrical disaster with so many added circuits, that's my purpose for today. So I need some assistance please. Already have 2 x R100GS's fully functioning so I have a basic understanding of these models. I am of the opinion these were fitted with a 5 position switc as opposed to a 3 position which I have on the later models I own. Also need access to a wiring diagram if anyone could help. Will Post a blog later of the transformation of theis renowned machine, as I was the guy who flew out to Chile to resurect the wreckage after her massive off. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
I can confirm 5 position switch…..available from motorworks I believe.
Haynes manual should have the correct wiring diagram ( but it may be available somewhere on line)

Keep the updates coming on the resurrection.
 
RPMDAKAR said:
Hi, I have inherited Cynthia Milton's Round the World "Old Girl" R 80 g/s and am in the process of recommissioning the sorely neglected machine having been stood in a garage for some 15+ years.
Have managed to get the surface crap off and now attempting to see if the motor turns over but have a major issue with the ignition switch which only has 2 positions, off & parking lights, the wiring resembles an electrical disaster with so many added circuits, that's my purpose for today. So I need some assistance please. Already have 2 x R100GS's fully functioning so I have a basic understanding of these models. I am of the opinion these were fitted with a 5 position switc as opposed to a 3 position which I have on the later models I own. Also need access to a wiring diagram if anyone could help. Will Post a blog later of the transformation of theis renowned machine, as I was the guy who flew out to Chile to resurect the wreckage after her massive off. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
Often because you are using the wrong key! Or you need to wiggle it in and out a bit. Or experiment with different depths of key entry into the lock.
 
mikeyboy said:
I’d just fit a new main harness,
Not overly expensive and an hours work to install
Click to expand...
As far as I know all's well with the harness Mike, just the key only moves one position, as the bikes been stood for 12 years I want to see if it will turn over.
 

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RPMDAKAR said:
As far as I know all's well with the harness Mike, just the key only moves one position, as the bikes been stood for 12 years I want to see if it will turn over.
Click to expand...
before you crank the engine , i'd blow out the cylinders with comp/air , and add some oil , after a look inside to make sure it isn't rusty ! ( but you know that ) .
and crank it from the back wheel. ( but you know that too )
or power up the starter motor with a power probe . ( here endeth the egg sucking lesson ) :cool:
 
In addition to the above post from one and only,
I’d be removing the sump to clean out all of the solids that have settled out of the oil over the 12 years it’s been stood before even considering to crank it over.
Two reasons,
Any Shiite in the sump will be dragged up and will go, unfiltered through the oil pump.
Secondly you can get a torch and get a look at the camshaft to see it it’s rusty.
 
Seen in better days,
For people who are wondering who she is...
Use the search bar and input her name...
Photo credited too Roger Chatterton,taken at the Ace Cafe from 2008.....Round world Trip.jpg
 
I think Tim is on the right track with the ignition lock.

If you have the wrong key, it will only turn to the first position and no further.

Likely nothing wrong with the lock itself.

I have a lock with a similar problem and I can’t find a locksmith willing to take it on.

What an incredible lady and a great project.

Looking forward to seeing you breathing life back into it.
 
RPMDAKAR said:
As far as I know all's well with the harness Mike, just the key only moves one position, as the bikes been stood for 12 years I want to see if it will turn over.
Click to expand...
Then Why not just put a battery in, with the engine top cover off and supply 12V to the starter solenoid spade terminal ?

Or jumper the ignition wires to fake the ignition on ??
 
Gelandestrasse said:
Often because you are using the wrong key! Or you need to wiggle it in and out a bit. Or experiment with different depths of key entry into the lock.
Click to expand...
The solicitors gave my wife several bunches of keys, all with BMW tags on and she put them in the glove box of our car, while I was down the garage scratching my head she came along with all the keys and believe it or not the first one I tried did the trick, lord knows what the other BMW keys were to! So one down several to go!
 
theoneandonly said:
before you crank the engine , i'd blow out the cylinders with comp/air , and add some oil , after a look inside to make sure it isn't rusty ! ( but you know that ) .
and crank it from the back wheel. ( but you know that too )
or power up the starter motor with a power probe . ( here endeth the egg sucking lesson ) :cool:
Click to expand...
Turns over with no hesitation but a shagged battery so didn't last long, will fit a new(er) battery later this week, all the rear end framework is off Monday for Powder Coating. Rear bevel drives been rebuilt as it dumped oil on the trailer on the way home and the rear wheel did have a lot of play top & bottom, transpired someone fitted a gasket( @ .3 mm + 74,000miles wear & tear), now, all new bearing, shims & seal and it's back to factory speck! Work in progress!
 
Your bike your choice,
The bikes been stood 15 years,
I guess it has a lot of provenance and a bit of history.
I’d be making sure of the condition of the motor before trying to make it start/run.
I’ve said this before many times.
Heads/barrels/sump off.
Gearbox out and clutch / flywheel off.
Check oil pump.
It’s £100 in gaskets/seals and a days work.
If everything is fine you’ll be replacing the seals and gaskets that will probably start leaking anyway,
If you discover any issues,the strip is well justified.
 
Have got all my problems resolved, The bike runs albeit in need of the valve gear adjusting, sounded like the Anvil Chorus! No smoke, no leaks, all the spurious wiring eliminated, with minimum fuss, just awaiting the powder coating back and the seat recovering and it should be on the road soon, still looking for a RHS side panel if anyone's got one? Only horror story was the left slider fell off when I removed the unit from the top yolks, had unscrewed itself!!!!!!! Thanks for all the sound advice.
 
Ahh, so you have her bike, I was chatting to one of the lads from the old pub last night (The Taste of England, lower Henwick farm) and he sent me over the photos.
She did have one of the first 1200gs when they came out and had rather a lot of trouble with it. Unlike mine, which behaved itself.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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