Take the time to enjoy DL, take time to smell the flowers 
Yes, it gets much cheaper as you head east ... enjoy
Yes, it gets much cheaper as you head east ... enjoy
Iran and back in a month on a 650.
- Thread starter Drumacoon Lad.
- Start date
Ride safe. Subscribed and will be following you DL. Enjoy the ride! 
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This was a day of borders, routing problems, getting hot, splendid Islamic architecture and a near miss.
Blue skies today and the waterproofs and goretex liners are stored, hopefully for a few weeks. Leaving Nis and finding the right road to Sofia and the Turkish border was no picnic. The GPS wanted to send me off on a tiny road heading into the mountains, while there looked to be a main road heading the right direction. I stopped and discussed the route with 2 other bikers in GS's with Slovenian plates. They also seemed confused and we had to get maps out, desperate times! We agreed the main road should work and eventually it did, leading to a motorway which was a work in progress. Some bits were finished, but most not, and there was a lot of contraflow and sharing a single carriageway, but probably quicker than the old road. I'll mention without comment the new motorway is being built with EU grants. Anyway, got to Sofia expecting to be routed to the infamous Sofia ring road but the GPS had a better idea, through the centre of Sofia. Well at least I've seen the centre and with the slow traffic had time to look around.
I was passing through 2 borders today and had expected delays on the Turkish border but had not expected to take over 30 mins to get out of Serbia into Bulgaria (EU). And here is where I nearly became a cropper(not where did that phrase come from). I joined the queue for the border officials leaving Serbia. I started to take my gloves off and the car in front began to reverse, spotting a shorter queue. I shouted and he kept coming, now where is the damn horn! Shouted again and eventually he stopped with inches to spare. I rode up the side of the car and the elderly couple in a German reg car were very apologetic, and insisted I go in front of them. It was close.
Getting through the border into Bulgaria I may have spotted an old friend or at least an acquaintance. 3 years ago when I came down here on a 1200GS I went through this border late in the evening. As I pullsd away from the last police check I looked to my left to see an Alsatian sunning towards me. I expected him to bark but he had more serious intentions. Before I could get fully away he had his jaw around my leg. I opened the throttle and he had to let go. Luckly i was wearing long sturdy boots and no damage done but it was an interesting "welcome to Bulgaria". So today as I left i instinctively looked left and there was an Alsatian, this time lying in the sun.*
So next it was on to the Turkish border this time on a new finished motorway which the GPS did not know about. It only had one service station but if Heineken did service stations...
The forecourt was immaculate, no oil or petrol stains. I out my side stand carefully so not to scratch. The attendant appeared immediatly and I normally prefer to fill my 2 tanks personally but there was no way I was getting the nozzle of this guy. He tolerated my supervision but made it clear it was unnecessary. I went inside to pay and the cashier beamed. I looked around at the perfectly laid out interior and she beamed even more. They are very proud of their new service station.
There was quite a queue on the Bulgarian side and even more so on the Turkish side. The big delay was custome who were emptying cars and searching suitcases on tne pavement, the most thorough physical search I've seen. Last time they xrayed my whole bike and I was prepared for that again. I of course was in the lane with the most dilligent searcher. I had visions of spreading all my stuff out in the ground and knew I'd never get it all back in. When it came to me the keen guy got called aside and another cheerful chap came over. He clarified my reg number and waved me on. It would have been wrong to kiss a customs officer but I was tempted. This all took about an hour but after the African borders I went through (see "Basingstoke to Dakar" on this site) it was a doddle.
So on to Edrine, just 20km from the border. After checking in to the hotel and reparing a router issue back in UK, I wandered up the town. I'd seen glimpses of a mosque on the way in but it is even more splendid close up. Strangely it was not easy to photo and it was now getting dark but it rivals the great mosques in Istanbul.
It took my breath away when I went inside. The dome is massive, elaborately decorated and so wide I could not get a camera shot of it in total. I think Micky would call this smelling the roses. As I came outside another mosque had been lit up and looked fabulous against the darkening sky.
* *
While trying to digest all this splendour my senses were again assaulted this time with loud football supporter celebrating the local teams victory in the Turkish league, ad boy did they celebrate. Cars raced around with guys hanging out of the windows or sunroof waving large flags and horns blazing. What an evening. It was all finished off by a plate of the local meat balls which look like small sausages and taste great. I feel I have landed after the trecking across Europe in the rain.
In reading this it might sound like the trip is a well organised plan carried without any problems, but those that have done this will realise that things do not always run smoothly. Stuff happens, it happens to you or you cause it because you are tired. In fact in our honest moments we would admit to relishing something going wrong because the reason we do these adventures is to get out of our comfort zones. And because we are pushing ourselves, mistakes are almost inevitable. For instance I may have dropped all my documents in the street on the way into the ADAC office in Mainz and not noticed, I may have taken too much stuff and had to leave the excess with friends in Mainz and Munich, I may have discovered that I did not have a copy of my Turkish visa, later I may have even learned that the visa is not valid till tomorrow, and while waiting to be searched at the Turkish border I may have remembered I had something which may have been embarrasing if found. Of course all these things did happen but I'm in Turkey and the trip goes on.
Blue skies today and the waterproofs and goretex liners are stored, hopefully for a few weeks. Leaving Nis and finding the right road to Sofia and the Turkish border was no picnic. The GPS wanted to send me off on a tiny road heading into the mountains, while there looked to be a main road heading the right direction. I stopped and discussed the route with 2 other bikers in GS's with Slovenian plates. They also seemed confused and we had to get maps out, desperate times! We agreed the main road should work and eventually it did, leading to a motorway which was a work in progress. Some bits were finished, but most not, and there was a lot of contraflow and sharing a single carriageway, but probably quicker than the old road. I'll mention without comment the new motorway is being built with EU grants. Anyway, got to Sofia expecting to be routed to the infamous Sofia ring road but the GPS had a better idea, through the centre of Sofia. Well at least I've seen the centre and with the slow traffic had time to look around.
I was passing through 2 borders today and had expected delays on the Turkish border but had not expected to take over 30 mins to get out of Serbia into Bulgaria (EU). And here is where I nearly became a cropper(not where did that phrase come from). I joined the queue for the border officials leaving Serbia. I started to take my gloves off and the car in front began to reverse, spotting a shorter queue. I shouted and he kept coming, now where is the damn horn! Shouted again and eventually he stopped with inches to spare. I rode up the side of the car and the elderly couple in a German reg car were very apologetic, and insisted I go in front of them. It was close.
Getting through the border into Bulgaria I may have spotted an old friend or at least an acquaintance. 3 years ago when I came down here on a 1200GS I went through this border late in the evening. As I pullsd away from the last police check I looked to my left to see an Alsatian sunning towards me. I expected him to bark but he had more serious intentions. Before I could get fully away he had his jaw around my leg. I opened the throttle and he had to let go. Luckly i was wearing long sturdy boots and no damage done but it was an interesting "welcome to Bulgaria". So today as I left i instinctively looked left and there was an Alsatian, this time lying in the sun.*
So next it was on to the Turkish border this time on a new finished motorway which the GPS did not know about. It only had one service station but if Heineken did service stations...
The forecourt was immaculate, no oil or petrol stains. I out my side stand carefully so not to scratch. The attendant appeared immediatly and I normally prefer to fill my 2 tanks personally but there was no way I was getting the nozzle of this guy. He tolerated my supervision but made it clear it was unnecessary. I went inside to pay and the cashier beamed. I looked around at the perfectly laid out interior and she beamed even more. They are very proud of their new service station.
There was quite a queue on the Bulgarian side and even more so on the Turkish side. The big delay was custome who were emptying cars and searching suitcases on tne pavement, the most thorough physical search I've seen. Last time they xrayed my whole bike and I was prepared for that again. I of course was in the lane with the most dilligent searcher. I had visions of spreading all my stuff out in the ground and knew I'd never get it all back in. When it came to me the keen guy got called aside and another cheerful chap came over. He clarified my reg number and waved me on. It would have been wrong to kiss a customs officer but I was tempted. This all took about an hour but after the African borders I went through (see "Basingstoke to Dakar" on this site) it was a doddle.
So on to Edrine, just 20km from the border. After checking in to the hotel and reparing a router issue back in UK, I wandered up the town. I'd seen glimpses of a mosque on the way in but it is even more splendid close up. Strangely it was not easy to photo and it was now getting dark but it rivals the great mosques in Istanbul.
It took my breath away when I went inside. The dome is massive, elaborately decorated and so wide I could not get a camera shot of it in total. I think Micky would call this smelling the roses. As I came outside another mosque had been lit up and looked fabulous against the darkening sky.
* *While trying to digest all this splendour my senses were again assaulted this time with loud football supporter celebrating the local teams victory in the Turkish league, ad boy did they celebrate. Cars raced around with guys hanging out of the windows or sunroof waving large flags and horns blazing. What an evening. It was all finished off by a plate of the local meat balls which look like small sausages and taste great. I feel I have landed after the trecking across Europe in the rain.
In reading this it might sound like the trip is a well organised plan carried without any problems, but those that have done this will realise that things do not always run smoothly. Stuff happens, it happens to you or you cause it because you are tired. In fact in our honest moments we would admit to relishing something going wrong because the reason we do these adventures is to get out of our comfort zones. And because we are pushing ourselves, mistakes are almost inevitable. For instance I may have dropped all my documents in the street on the way into the ADAC office in Mainz and not noticed, I may have taken too much stuff and had to leave the excess with friends in Mainz and Munich, I may have discovered that I did not have a copy of my Turkish visa, later I may have even learned that the visa is not valid till tomorrow, and while waiting to be searched at the Turkish border I may have remembered I had something which may have been embarrasing if found. Of course all these things did happen but I'm in Turkey and the trip goes on.
Excellent write-up. Thanks for sharing. Photos, too.
Good luck, Bud.
Sounds much like the Silk Road program I've just watched on BBC4 presented by Sam Willis. Fascinating. Now, why did I not see such fascinating sights when I visited Iran in the 1980s...
Ride safe.
Good luck, Bud.
Sounds much like the Silk Road program I've just watched on BBC4 presented by Sam Willis. Fascinating. Now, why did I not see such fascinating sights when I visited Iran in the 1980s...
Ride safe.
Mr K
Registered user
Thanks.
I'm late leaving for work now.
I'm late leaving for work now.
redmarcus999
Registered user
I visited a neighbouring country to Iran in 1991 and again in 2003 - not much fun, but the locals were welcoming enough, but flipside was got paid whilst there and suntan 
great write up, keep it coming along with the photos too. Subscribed 
great write up, keep it coming along with the photos too. Subscribed - Joined
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Today, day 5, was all about getting further east, but first I had to get past Istanbul. "Passing Istanbul?" I hear you say, "how can you miss out on this beautiful city?". Well the team comprising this trip did debate this for some time, there were strong arguments in favour of visiting, the Blue Mosque, Aya Sofia, the Grand Bazzar are wonders of the world. On the contrary side I had visited Turkey and spent 2 days in Istanbul 3 years ago and I have plans to visit the city again soon on a city break. The chairman of the tour comittee(me) decided that the priority of this trip was to get as much time in Iran, so east we must go. One of the benifits of travelling alone is you get to make all the big decisions. The downside is that there is no one else to blame when it was the wrong decision. I did feel a bit like a Philistine missing out on all that culture but hopefully Iran may make up for missing Istanbul. And I do think the Philistines get a bad press if anyone can agree who they were.
So the day began slowly. The receptionist set the tone by having announced that breakfast was not till 8, instead of my normal 7 AM. I did have ideas of having the bike packed by 8 and riding off at 8:30, but it did not happen. I did however use the time before breakfast to do a few small jobs on the bike, check and top up the oil which was half way down the stick after around 1800 miles, not bad. I carry oil with me so used the same as the last oil change. The chain needed a slight adjustment too, a couple of flats of the adjusting screw. I don't think this DID chain is as good as the last so may need some closer monitoring. I then tried to fix problems with my comms from the GPS which also plays MP3 music. It seems to be picking up interference as if the earthing is not good. Still not sure it is sorted. The main equipment is buried inside the bike and I may have to take it all apart to clean and check connections, but not yet. The detail may be boring for some but I know some will love these facts.
I was quite concerned at how bad it would be getting through the Istanbul traffic. My last experience was my worst city driving experience ever. I found myself in a line approaching one of the toll gates of the motorway and looked either side and saw there were in fact 5 lines queuing for the same gate. I felt quite small even on my big motorbike. That competion for space continued for about 20km to my hotel. Anyway this time it started the same but seemed to keep moving, helped by the fact motorbikes use the hard sholder and when in Rome... I lost only about 20 mins getting through the city and over the Bosphorus. It is something special to take in the view crossing this famous streatch of water. The heavy traffic continued for some time over the crossing and you need your full concentration in Istanbul traffic. I have another couple of scares on this streatch. I was in the outside lane overtaking a truck and a large car decided it was a good idea to overtake me using my lane at the same time. It was not a good idea! The first thing I saw was the front wing of the 4x4, about a meter from my left shoulder. I glared at him but he continued the manouver. I need to position myself better in my lane in future it seems, or come back in an armour plated Hummer.
I pulled over to fill up and found myself in the grandaddy of service stations. This one had 30 pumps and I was directed to my designated pump by a gentleman with a whistle. He immediatly sent a guy to serve me, using his whistle. He had that petrol station buzzing. After the pristine service station yesterday I thought about service stations I've visited, both good and bad. The single service station in a 300 mile streatch of the Moritanian section of the Sahara desert, which sometimes has petrol, should be included. You have not lived till you arrive at that station and the man says "pas d'essance". The other one that comes to mind is in Ireland. Having arrived in the country without a map I called into this station and asked for a map. The guy thought about my question for a bit and replied, "Yes we have, but only for Ireland". He's got to be on the list. Well, maybe there is a book in this! All I need is a publisher and a generous advance.
So I'm now about 300km east of Istanbul in a one horse town, Gereme, hopefully I have no readers here. I asked the receptionist about a restaurant and he handed me a home delivery menu, which I had to choose from and it would be delivered to the hotel. Was not bad but this approach was a first for me. Travel eh!
No pictures today but a couple more from yesterday, in Edrine
This lifesize sculpture is quite lifelike and shows a guy making these hand brooms and I found it quite powerful.
The inside detail of the multi domed mosque(above).
Further east tomorrow, to a larger town I hope.
So the day began slowly. The receptionist set the tone by having announced that breakfast was not till 8, instead of my normal 7 AM. I did have ideas of having the bike packed by 8 and riding off at 8:30, but it did not happen. I did however use the time before breakfast to do a few small jobs on the bike, check and top up the oil which was half way down the stick after around 1800 miles, not bad. I carry oil with me so used the same as the last oil change. The chain needed a slight adjustment too, a couple of flats of the adjusting screw. I don't think this DID chain is as good as the last so may need some closer monitoring. I then tried to fix problems with my comms from the GPS which also plays MP3 music. It seems to be picking up interference as if the earthing is not good. Still not sure it is sorted. The main equipment is buried inside the bike and I may have to take it all apart to clean and check connections, but not yet. The detail may be boring for some but I know some will love these facts.
I was quite concerned at how bad it would be getting through the Istanbul traffic. My last experience was my worst city driving experience ever. I found myself in a line approaching one of the toll gates of the motorway and looked either side and saw there were in fact 5 lines queuing for the same gate. I felt quite small even on my big motorbike. That competion for space continued for about 20km to my hotel. Anyway this time it started the same but seemed to keep moving, helped by the fact motorbikes use the hard sholder and when in Rome... I lost only about 20 mins getting through the city and over the Bosphorus. It is something special to take in the view crossing this famous streatch of water. The heavy traffic continued for some time over the crossing and you need your full concentration in Istanbul traffic. I have another couple of scares on this streatch. I was in the outside lane overtaking a truck and a large car decided it was a good idea to overtake me using my lane at the same time. It was not a good idea! The first thing I saw was the front wing of the 4x4, about a meter from my left shoulder. I glared at him but he continued the manouver. I need to position myself better in my lane in future it seems, or come back in an armour plated Hummer.
I pulled over to fill up and found myself in the grandaddy of service stations. This one had 30 pumps and I was directed to my designated pump by a gentleman with a whistle. He immediatly sent a guy to serve me, using his whistle. He had that petrol station buzzing. After the pristine service station yesterday I thought about service stations I've visited, both good and bad. The single service station in a 300 mile streatch of the Moritanian section of the Sahara desert, which sometimes has petrol, should be included. You have not lived till you arrive at that station and the man says "pas d'essance". The other one that comes to mind is in Ireland. Having arrived in the country without a map I called into this station and asked for a map. The guy thought about my question for a bit and replied, "Yes we have, but only for Ireland". He's got to be on the list. Well, maybe there is a book in this! All I need is a publisher and a generous advance.
So I'm now about 300km east of Istanbul in a one horse town, Gereme, hopefully I have no readers here. I asked the receptionist about a restaurant and he handed me a home delivery menu, which I had to choose from and it would be delivered to the hotel. Was not bad but this approach was a first for me. Travel eh!
No pictures today but a couple more from yesterday, in Edrine
This lifesize sculpture is quite lifelike and shows a guy making these hand brooms and I found it quite powerful.
The inside detail of the multi domed mosque(above).
Further east tomorrow, to a larger town I hope.
Good progress you making there DL and thank you for taking us along. Lol re Ireland map 
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Sandtribe
Registered user
Good stuff! Keep it coming .
Stay safe
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Stay safe
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Since I woke up this morning feeling a little unwell I'm pleased to have still travelled a few hundered miles further east. This morning made me review my positive thoughts about the takeway to the hotel. Anýway I was able to have some breakfast and headed off.
The distance was not as great as other days but the GPS was saying it would take a long time. As I was on a good dual carrigeway, this surprised me but I made good time at the beginning. Then I began to understand why it would take so long, firstly the road went through towns and had tight speed restrictions and secondly the police clarified for me that motorbikes are limited to 80km throughout Turkey even on motorways or dual carriageways. Now I should have known thus before but had nievely expected that the limit would be the same as cars. This meant that I would have to revise my expected mileage each day but is managable. I fact riding at the slower speed is quite relaxing and suits the 650 quite well. It will improve reliability also and I'll get better fuel comsumption. But it did make for a long day today. Luckly tomorrow is shorter.
Some may wonder what I have for lunch well as I mentioned I don't have much of an appetite while riding and like to avoid eating big lunches as it can make you feel tired afterwards. So this it a typical lunch "swag".
To continue the service station theme a bit I had one of the excellent Turkish receptions at a stop today. The staff were all interested in the bike and my journey, they offered free Chi (Tea). One guy even noticed a loose screw on the bike which I tightened up and someone, possibly a customer, gave me some green fruit, like green tomatoes but they taste a bit like goosberries but have a hard stone in the centre. It was a really lovely stop and lifted my spirits when the I was feeling a bit road weary.
The road seemed to go along a valley with mountains on both sides. It was high up to start, about 1,200 meters and slowly decended. On the side of the road there were flooded plots which looked like they may be paddy fields and there was a lot of work underway getting them ready.
The exposed rock here looked quite colourful with the strata well defined.
Further on we began to climb and eventually got to 2,150 meters where I had to put on my goretex layer before decending into town. There was a lot of police presence along the road but this police car amused me and made me slow down.
Following my experience with the takeaway yesterday, I decided to be a bit more cautious this evening and opted for a kebab. We'll see!
Further east tomorrow but still in Turkey. You will understand if I'm less specific now about location approaching the border area as this an open searchable website
The distance was not as great as other days but the GPS was saying it would take a long time. As I was on a good dual carrigeway, this surprised me but I made good time at the beginning. Then I began to understand why it would take so long, firstly the road went through towns and had tight speed restrictions and secondly the police clarified for me that motorbikes are limited to 80km throughout Turkey even on motorways or dual carriageways. Now I should have known thus before but had nievely expected that the limit would be the same as cars. This meant that I would have to revise my expected mileage each day but is managable. I fact riding at the slower speed is quite relaxing and suits the 650 quite well. It will improve reliability also and I'll get better fuel comsumption. But it did make for a long day today. Luckly tomorrow is shorter.
Some may wonder what I have for lunch well as I mentioned I don't have much of an appetite while riding and like to avoid eating big lunches as it can make you feel tired afterwards. So this it a typical lunch "swag".
To continue the service station theme a bit I had one of the excellent Turkish receptions at a stop today. The staff were all interested in the bike and my journey, they offered free Chi (Tea). One guy even noticed a loose screw on the bike which I tightened up and someone, possibly a customer, gave me some green fruit, like green tomatoes but they taste a bit like goosberries but have a hard stone in the centre. It was a really lovely stop and lifted my spirits when the I was feeling a bit road weary.
The road seemed to go along a valley with mountains on both sides. It was high up to start, about 1,200 meters and slowly decended. On the side of the road there were flooded plots which looked like they may be paddy fields and there was a lot of work underway getting them ready.
The exposed rock here looked quite colourful with the strata well defined.
Further on we began to climb and eventually got to 2,150 meters where I had to put on my goretex layer before decending into town. There was a lot of police presence along the road but this police car amused me and made me slow down.
Following my experience with the takeaway yesterday, I decided to be a bit more cautious this evening and opted for a kebab. We'll see!
Further east tomorrow but still in Turkey. You will understand if I'm less specific now about location approaching the border area as this an open searchable website
BigRedUn
Registered user
I've never thought of a kebab as the safe option before.
Great reading, thanks.
Great reading, thanks.
Loving the RR- beautifully written. I also experienced a couple of Turkish speed limit 'clarifications' as you describe them whilst crossing Turkey 8 years ago. However last year I crossed Turkey toward Georgia in a decidedly 'progressive ' way but had no 'clarifications'.
Odd, really.
Do watch out for the Armenian police (I am assuming that is your route into Iran) as they have a cottage industry of booking people. Once I explained that I only had a credit card and a drivers license (ie no cash) they lost interest and went off to harass someone else.
Simon
Odd, really.
Do watch out for the Armenian police (I am assuming that is your route into Iran) as they have a cottage industry of booking people. Once I explained that I only had a credit card and a drivers license (ie no cash) they lost interest and went off to harass someone else.
Simon
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The planning committee of this bike trip met this morning, in the shower, to consider the proposal for having a rest day. Factors mentioned were, 2,500 miles covered in 6 days, depleted reserves of stamina and adrenaline, hotel and town are quite suitable, would allow the purchase of a sim for spare mobile and cable for bike comms. The proposal was carried. So a leasurely breakfast followed and later a wander into town to get that local sim.
I'd just upgraded before I left to have a better camera in the phone and with the quality of the pictures so far this was a good decision. The ides for the sim in the spare phone is to allow it to connect to the interet and get it to generate a wifi hotspot which the new phone can use.I went first to Turk Telekon and asked if anyone spoke English, no one did or suggest a solution, so I left and got the same reception from Vodafone. Next door was another phone shop dealing with a number of suppliers. None of the staff there spoke any English but they did go and get a guy from another shop who acted as interpreter. I believed my old phone was unlocked but before committing myself wanted to be sure, so we fitted a local sim, no signal. I will describe the solution to this, in case useful to anyone else in future. The fact that the local sim did not work was disappointing but to be sure we then fitted the same sim in my current phone, which I know is unlocked, and it did not workthere either. OK so the problem is not with the old phone. However I altered the settings on the new phone and manually selected the network and then registered on it. The phone then connected immediatly. So we did the same thing with the old phone and it connected too. So now I could get the sim. I had brought my passport which is required in Turkey as it was in Morocco, but not in Romania. Getting everything set up took a while and Cay (correct spelling, but pronounced Chi) was ordered for me. In the meantine they took selfies, told me which channel will have the Liverpool match tonight and asked about my trip. The 4G sim with 4Gb of data was 40Tl about £11 and lasts for a month. Althouth I'll only be in Turkey for a few more days I will be back and it will take a few days to pass through irespective of which route I take. When we finished I explained to the guy that in needed an auxiliary cable, with 2 jack plugs, formy bike comms, and he went with me to find a shop and stayed till I got the right part. From start to finish this was a really pleasant experience and reminded me about why I enjoy being in this country. If Iran is friendlier than this it makes me look forward even more.
I was reflecting further on yesterday and remembering the chat I had with the guys at the service station. We had no common language but I understood the guy wanted to know what the bike was worth. I finger wrote the number in the top box and noticed figures appeared in the dust. The what year was the bike and finally he pointed at my silver locks and I understood he wanted to know my age. I should have taken a picture of the top box with the numbers but I'll always have the memories.
It was around this time that I took out my earplugs and noticed that my hearing felt strange, I could not hear from the right ear. I didn't think I had gone deaf but wondered if my head cold had blocked my ear or had I got an ear infection. As I puzzled over this the guys were distracting me and I hoped the condition would clear. Once I got a chance to think properly I remembered only finding one ear plug to put back at the previous service station and used a spare. I then had an idea where the other earplug might be, and sure enough when I put my finger in my ear I could just feel the tip of the original earplug. It took me 5 mins to get it out and restore full hearing. Problem solved and no antibotics needed.
I went down to put the new comms cable in the bike and check and clean all connections. This done I tried it out and all seemed OK but the real test will be on the road. While there I checked oil and adjusted and oiled the chain. It has been a restful day but am concerned that I may regret resting here and not at my next stop. I'm picking up reports there is a storm moving in from the black sea which I may hit tomorrow. We'll see and I do remember where I put the waterproofs.
I'd just upgraded before I left to have a better camera in the phone and with the quality of the pictures so far this was a good decision. The ides for the sim in the spare phone is to allow it to connect to the interet and get it to generate a wifi hotspot which the new phone can use.I went first to Turk Telekon and asked if anyone spoke English, no one did or suggest a solution, so I left and got the same reception from Vodafone. Next door was another phone shop dealing with a number of suppliers. None of the staff there spoke any English but they did go and get a guy from another shop who acted as interpreter. I believed my old phone was unlocked but before committing myself wanted to be sure, so we fitted a local sim, no signal. I will describe the solution to this, in case useful to anyone else in future. The fact that the local sim did not work was disappointing but to be sure we then fitted the same sim in my current phone, which I know is unlocked, and it did not workthere either. OK so the problem is not with the old phone. However I altered the settings on the new phone and manually selected the network and then registered on it. The phone then connected immediatly. So we did the same thing with the old phone and it connected too. So now I could get the sim. I had brought my passport which is required in Turkey as it was in Morocco, but not in Romania. Getting everything set up took a while and Cay (correct spelling, but pronounced Chi) was ordered for me. In the meantine they took selfies, told me which channel will have the Liverpool match tonight and asked about my trip. The 4G sim with 4Gb of data was 40Tl about £11 and lasts for a month. Althouth I'll only be in Turkey for a few more days I will be back and it will take a few days to pass through irespective of which route I take. When we finished I explained to the guy that in needed an auxiliary cable, with 2 jack plugs, formy bike comms, and he went with me to find a shop and stayed till I got the right part. From start to finish this was a really pleasant experience and reminded me about why I enjoy being in this country. If Iran is friendlier than this it makes me look forward even more.
I was reflecting further on yesterday and remembering the chat I had with the guys at the service station. We had no common language but I understood the guy wanted to know what the bike was worth. I finger wrote the number in the top box and noticed figures appeared in the dust. The what year was the bike and finally he pointed at my silver locks and I understood he wanted to know my age. I should have taken a picture of the top box with the numbers but I'll always have the memories.
It was around this time that I took out my earplugs and noticed that my hearing felt strange, I could not hear from the right ear. I didn't think I had gone deaf but wondered if my head cold had blocked my ear or had I got an ear infection. As I puzzled over this the guys were distracting me and I hoped the condition would clear. Once I got a chance to think properly I remembered only finding one ear plug to put back at the previous service station and used a spare. I then had an idea where the other earplug might be, and sure enough when I put my finger in my ear I could just feel the tip of the original earplug. It took me 5 mins to get it out and restore full hearing. Problem solved and no antibotics needed.
I went down to put the new comms cable in the bike and check and clean all connections. This done I tried it out and all seemed OK but the real test will be on the road. While there I checked oil and adjusted and oiled the chain. It has been a restful day but am concerned that I may regret resting here and not at my next stop. I'm picking up reports there is a storm moving in from the black sea which I may hit tomorrow. We'll see and I do remember where I put the waterproofs.
Sandtribe
Registered user
First went to Turkey 30 years ago and you are right about then being friendly and hospitable - a wonderful country! Keep up the reports! Am jealous as am stuck in the office!
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sandtribe
Registered user
Great first post Sandtribe ... welcome
Thanks. Enjoying it!
Great report
Great report Jim!
Keep it up and post more photos when you can.
Great report Jim!
Keep it up and post more photos when you can.
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2008
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Well the reports of a storm were exagerated like Mark Twain said about reports of his death. The weather had changed however and it was a chilly start needing the goretex jacket liner. My route was to ride through town and pick up the dual carriageway further down. But once I'd loaded the bike I noticed the police had blocked the road. I had noticed something aboutit being a special day on the TV in the breakfast room. So it semed there was a parade or visiting dignitary. I decided to retrace my steps and join the main road where I had left it. Why trouble the police when it can be avoided, they are busy people. On the way out the GPS spotted a quicker way to join the dual carriageway so I turned off to pick up this slip road.
I'm sure I could have negotiated if I had to but as there was an easy main junction nearby I gave this slip road a miss. If anyone wants to come down here to try it, I'll tell you where it is. Leaving town we were at 1,200 meters, nearly as high as Ben Nevis (and little did I know that I'd meet someone who climbed it, before the day was out) and that was the lowest point all day mostly we were at 1,600 meters. There were 3 passes over 2,000 meters with the highest at 2,200 meters. The road was excellent at least most of the time, it did deteriorate later in the day. I hit one unplesant pothole but no damage. The route was as through along a high plateau with mountains on either sides still with some snow. At times it reminded me of pictures I had seen of Montgolia. In fact I believe I saw a yurt at one point. There were herds of lean cattle always accompanied by a herder.
This castle was a surprise.
I was getting used to the slower pace, now that I'm mostly observing the 80km speed limit and my route was not too long today, only 400km. It meant I took in more of what was around and stopped occasionally. The rest day yesterday also helped. The work I did on the bikes comms system had also paid off, I was getting nice clear commands from the GPS and good quality audio from my MP3 music also on the Garmin. The whole comms system is now a bit dated and I'll have to move to a bluetooth system soon. My GPS is loaded with 500 music tracks, which I can play as albums but on these long trips I like to play a random selection or an alphabetical one. This time it was alphabetical and I started at the beginning in Calais and just today got to the last track and started again. I don't listen all the time but on motorways or when there is not much to see around me. There can be quite a contrast in the tracks, from Luke Kelly to Meatloaf, from The Boss to Cat Stevens but it keeps it interested. With the alphabetical sequence you also get the occasional song sung by 2 different people following each other, like Luke Kelly's classic "Whiskey in the Jar" followed by Thin Lizzy, blasting it out. *When I went to Africa it forgot to load any music on my GPS and had to steal the few albums I had on my phone but it made a short playlist. I got quite fed up with Johnny Cash I can tell you. Anyway it was great to have the system working well again.
I like old bridges and this one was a beauty
As I rode along on this quiet road it occurred to me that I hadn't seen a big bike since Istanbul and no other adventure bikes. Then almost around the next corner I saw a cyclist, no, two cyclists in the side of the road and with panniers. It lifted my spirit to see them and I slowed down gave them a wave, rode on, then stopped and waited till they joined me. They were a lovely couple, Spanish, Alba and Ricard from near Barcelona. They were camping and heading somewhere in the Far East. Their website is www.bike2reality.wordpress.com. Not read it yet, but they were happy I shared it. It was a really uplifting meeting as we all looked so pleased to see each other even though we had only just met. I'm not in their league but there is something of a love of the open road and adventure which we shared even in the few minutes we spent together. I rode off with a big grin but was also quite emotional leaving them.
There were lots of theses stalls on the side of the road. I stopped and asked this guy of I could take a picture and he posed.
Near some of the houses were these. Not sure what they were but think they were made of bricks, like peat. Any ideas?
Further along the road I spotted something ahead apparently blocking the road. As I got closer I saw 2 white cars and assumed a police checkpoint, because the road was blocked by a digger. Then I saw that the white cars were not police and had a moment of anxiety. A guy was waving and I thought he was suggesting I could go agead under the digger but he stopped me. I had been once directed under the extended arm of a digger in the Moroccan Atlas mountains and only managed it by ducking my head. This was different and I began to see what was happening as a large boulder rolled down the slope to the side of the road. Then I noticed that on the top of this slope were two further diggers which were effectively throwing these boulders down to the side and some onto the road. Some of the boulders were the size of Range Rovers, not just ordinary cars.
This went on for some minutes and was fun to watch. Eventually the work was paused and we were let through.
The road started to climb again to another pass and then I spotted, yes, another cyclist, on his own. I pulled over and met Martin from Munich in Germany. He had music playing on a speaker behind him and a solar panel providing charging. He also had an Ice Axe!
"So what are you doing on your trip Martin?" I said.
"Oh, I'm cycling into countries along the way and go to the highest mountain and climb it"
" Mount Arrat is next, just up the road, it's over 5,000 meters"
Don't you just hate it when you think you are doing something a bit adventurous and you meet a guy like this. Mind you it would be hard to hate Martin he was a lovely guy.
"Had any problems with the bike?" I asked.
"Oh loads, a puncture everyday for the last week"
"And I keep losing these little brake screws"
"And there was shredded tyre and the bent rim"
" Its only my mountain bike and I have carry all the climbing gear, 60kg"
It was great to meet Martin. Getting back on my bike and engaging the engine to climb the pass, while Martin put his feet back on the pedals, helped keep my little adventure in perspective. Hopefully if you are keeping awake, you will have worked out that Martin is the guy who climbed Ben Nevis and quite a few other Scotish mountains, while he worked in Glasgow. I should put his website in too, www.peakbikepeak.net.
I arrived in my destination a few hours from the border. It is a lively place, has the feel of a border town, a bit edgy. I should know as I come from a border town, but the only edgness in Clones when I was young was if you somehow fell out with the McGuigan brothers, sorry Barry, only joking. With it being a shorter day it was good to get early to the town and be able to go for a walk and sample the atmosphere before dark. It was strange as I am clearly not a local but I walked around as if invisible, no one stared or commented. Ed wanted a few more photos so here's a few views. Lastly, as I sit here in reception writing this, someone comes along and puts a glass of cay in front of me as I finish the last. What nice people!
The modern fresh cheese seller, on the mobile as he wheels his barrow along.
"Right, lets clear up the last of these melons"
How to enforce a one way street in Turkey. I guess its effective.
I'm sure I could have negotiated if I had to but as there was an easy main junction nearby I gave this slip road a miss. If anyone wants to come down here to try it, I'll tell you where it is. Leaving town we were at 1,200 meters, nearly as high as Ben Nevis (and little did I know that I'd meet someone who climbed it, before the day was out) and that was the lowest point all day mostly we were at 1,600 meters. There were 3 passes over 2,000 meters with the highest at 2,200 meters. The road was excellent at least most of the time, it did deteriorate later in the day. I hit one unplesant pothole but no damage. The route was as through along a high plateau with mountains on either sides still with some snow. At times it reminded me of pictures I had seen of Montgolia. In fact I believe I saw a yurt at one point. There were herds of lean cattle always accompanied by a herder.
This castle was a surprise.
I was getting used to the slower pace, now that I'm mostly observing the 80km speed limit and my route was not too long today, only 400km. It meant I took in more of what was around and stopped occasionally. The rest day yesterday also helped. The work I did on the bikes comms system had also paid off, I was getting nice clear commands from the GPS and good quality audio from my MP3 music also on the Garmin. The whole comms system is now a bit dated and I'll have to move to a bluetooth system soon. My GPS is loaded with 500 music tracks, which I can play as albums but on these long trips I like to play a random selection or an alphabetical one. This time it was alphabetical and I started at the beginning in Calais and just today got to the last track and started again. I don't listen all the time but on motorways or when there is not much to see around me. There can be quite a contrast in the tracks, from Luke Kelly to Meatloaf, from The Boss to Cat Stevens but it keeps it interested. With the alphabetical sequence you also get the occasional song sung by 2 different people following each other, like Luke Kelly's classic "Whiskey in the Jar" followed by Thin Lizzy, blasting it out. *When I went to Africa it forgot to load any music on my GPS and had to steal the few albums I had on my phone but it made a short playlist. I got quite fed up with Johnny Cash I can tell you. Anyway it was great to have the system working well again.
I like old bridges and this one was a beauty
As I rode along on this quiet road it occurred to me that I hadn't seen a big bike since Istanbul and no other adventure bikes. Then almost around the next corner I saw a cyclist, no, two cyclists in the side of the road and with panniers. It lifted my spirit to see them and I slowed down gave them a wave, rode on, then stopped and waited till they joined me. They were a lovely couple, Spanish, Alba and Ricard from near Barcelona. They were camping and heading somewhere in the Far East. Their website is www.bike2reality.wordpress.com. Not read it yet, but they were happy I shared it. It was a really uplifting meeting as we all looked so pleased to see each other even though we had only just met. I'm not in their league but there is something of a love of the open road and adventure which we shared even in the few minutes we spent together. I rode off with a big grin but was also quite emotional leaving them.
There were lots of theses stalls on the side of the road. I stopped and asked this guy of I could take a picture and he posed.
Near some of the houses were these. Not sure what they were but think they were made of bricks, like peat. Any ideas?
Further along the road I spotted something ahead apparently blocking the road. As I got closer I saw 2 white cars and assumed a police checkpoint, because the road was blocked by a digger. Then I saw that the white cars were not police and had a moment of anxiety. A guy was waving and I thought he was suggesting I could go agead under the digger but he stopped me. I had been once directed under the extended arm of a digger in the Moroccan Atlas mountains and only managed it by ducking my head. This was different and I began to see what was happening as a large boulder rolled down the slope to the side of the road. Then I noticed that on the top of this slope were two further diggers which were effectively throwing these boulders down to the side and some onto the road. Some of the boulders were the size of Range Rovers, not just ordinary cars.
This went on for some minutes and was fun to watch. Eventually the work was paused and we were let through.
The road started to climb again to another pass and then I spotted, yes, another cyclist, on his own. I pulled over and met Martin from Munich in Germany. He had music playing on a speaker behind him and a solar panel providing charging. He also had an Ice Axe!
"So what are you doing on your trip Martin?" I said.
"Oh, I'm cycling into countries along the way and go to the highest mountain and climb it"
" Mount Arrat is next, just up the road, it's over 5,000 meters"
Don't you just hate it when you think you are doing something a bit adventurous and you meet a guy like this. Mind you it would be hard to hate Martin he was a lovely guy.
"Had any problems with the bike?" I asked.
"Oh loads, a puncture everyday for the last week"
"And I keep losing these little brake screws"
"And there was shredded tyre and the bent rim"
" Its only my mountain bike and I have carry all the climbing gear, 60kg"
It was great to meet Martin. Getting back on my bike and engaging the engine to climb the pass, while Martin put his feet back on the pedals, helped keep my little adventure in perspective. Hopefully if you are keeping awake, you will have worked out that Martin is the guy who climbed Ben Nevis and quite a few other Scotish mountains, while he worked in Glasgow. I should put his website in too, www.peakbikepeak.net.
I arrived in my destination a few hours from the border. It is a lively place, has the feel of a border town, a bit edgy. I should know as I come from a border town, but the only edgness in Clones when I was young was if you somehow fell out with the McGuigan brothers, sorry Barry, only joking. With it being a shorter day it was good to get early to the town and be able to go for a walk and sample the atmosphere before dark. It was strange as I am clearly not a local but I walked around as if invisible, no one stared or commented. Ed wanted a few more photos so here's a few views. Lastly, as I sit here in reception writing this, someone comes along and puts a glass of cay in front of me as I finish the last. What nice people!
The modern fresh cheese seller, on the mobile as he wheels his barrow along.
"Right, lets clear up the last of these melons"
How to enforce a one way street in Turkey. I guess its effective.
DL, you ride slow at 80 kmph and do less miles - I can see that, that gives us more pics and more to read
Ride safe and enjoy!
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Ride safe and enjoy!
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
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