is 14 gauge wire suitable for a pair of 35w spotlights?

mr_magicfingers

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I've just converted my fogs and spots to 35w hids.

Previously, each spot or fog was wired using 14 gauge wire, which has a rating of 6A.

I'd prefer to run single wire to each pair of lights and, at 35w each (total 70w per pair), they pull 5.8A at full power.

That should be ok according to the wire table, but I just wondered if you should have a bit more capacity or if it will be fine as it is.

I'm connecting the wires to AMP Superseal quick disconnect connectors so it's a lot easier just having 2 wires per set rather than 4.
 
Don't know if it helps, but

Amps = Watts / Volts

So a 35w, 12v bulb will draw 2.91amps.

I would personally run a cable to each spotlight. But that's just me.
 
technically you should be okay most bikes run at about 13v ish which is a draw of 2.6A per spot. giving nearly 1 amp spare, which as long as the wire coating is suitable for the enviroment IE hot engine, oily and weather, then I'd imagine you'd be cool :), though personnally I prefer to run individual wires to each spot for peace of mind and the extra spare capacity.

how 4 wires ? could you not have the returns going to chassis at the spots ? then all you have is 2 lives each going to the spots giving you room in the connector and plenty capacity spare in the cabling
 
The idea was to have the spots mounted on the bar and have the wiring with easily disconnectible connectors, so that I could remove the bar and lights if necessary without pulling all the wiring out. Was thinking about if I'm going offroading etc, taking the lights off might prevent damage in a fall etc.

However, have found that to take the light bar off I have to remove the fairing and indicators which pretty much takes away any chance of that working, as the bolts that hold the light bar on are hidden away in a very awkward place that you can't get at with the bodywork on.

I now have the lights all wired with the connectors on, and they proved to be a right pain in the ass to do. Looks like a lot of work to try and make things easy for myself when I've actually made it a lot harder than it needed to be. Now they're done, I think I'll run them as they are and if there's a problem I'll rewire with the extra wire.

Can't easily get to a shop to get new wire without the bike and need to have it back on the road tomorrow. Should have thought harder about this before I started the damn thing.
 
I try and keep the number of connections to a minimum but where I have them I use Pozi-locks. They are great for connections, power take offs etc as they don't cut the wires. A small needle type point goes through the wire without breaking it to make a connection.
 
You were probably ok if you had done what you planned but for future you need to remember volts drop as well. Probably doesn't really apply here as the length would have been pretty short but I would have gone the next size up.
 


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