robinnoelevans
Guest
Looking to buy a high miler ( 50K) with good service history. Could such a bike be entering a phase of expensive terminal decline? Do most go on and on with basic servicing. Any tips or pointers to articles etc would be great.
gs1150
Guest
mine has just done 50k
found out tonight that she has drunk a bit of oil but i do believe that goes with the territory.
other than that i cant fault it. she has alot of service history and previous owners have shelled out a fortune on parts
thankfully i don't have to.
At the end of the day if the bike has been well cared for inside and out then one can be confident that it will be fine. my gs spent most of her life outside so she aint cosmetically as well kept as others for her age but mechanically she is sound and that's all i care about. she has enough grunt for me and im well happy.
make sure that the 'big' things have been done like the rear bearing at the end of the driveshaft has been replaced (where the rear wheel connects to the driveshaft) Also make sure the 48,000 mile service has been done as it is major service.
found out tonight that she has drunk a bit of oil but i do believe that goes with the territory.
other than that i cant fault it. she has alot of service history and previous owners have shelled out a fortune on parts
thankfully i don't have to.At the end of the day if the bike has been well cared for inside and out then one can be confident that it will be fine. my gs spent most of her life outside so she aint cosmetically as well kept as others for her age but mechanically she is sound and that's all i care about. she has enough grunt for me and im well happy.
make sure that the 'big' things have been done like the rear bearing at the end of the driveshaft has been replaced (where the rear wheel connects to the driveshaft) Also make sure the 48,000 mile service has been done as it is major service.
Deleted account 250319001
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The service history will sway you one way ortother
I take it, it has service history?
I take it, it has service history?
The only big cost will be replacing the clutch – some last over 100,000 miles some go much earlier. You’d be looking in the region of £800+ from a dealer and something like £500 from an independent or do it yourself but it is a PITA job. Other than that I’d have no worries buying a 50K oilhead – I bought my latest 1150 with 60K on the clock
Mine had done 15000 miles when I bought her in 2004 and is now at over 65000. All I have done in that time (apart from routine servicing) is change the alternator belt, although the clutch is fecked now and will be replaced this weekend.
If the bike you are looking at has, as you say, a good service history then I wouldn't let the mileage hold me back.
If the bike you are looking at has, as you say, a good service history then I wouldn't let the mileage hold me back.
DollyRocket
Registered user
Mine has done 48K and runs better now that it has ever done. Boxer engines go on and on as long as you look after them - Regular oil changes and preventative maintenance is the key.
Steptoe has had bikes with over 100K through his workshop that he said still run well (probably had a few gearboxes / clutches but still original engine.)
Not worried about high milers myself.
Steptoe has had bikes with over 100K through his workshop that he said still run well (probably had a few gearboxes / clutches but still original engine.)
Not worried about high milers myself.
elevensies
Registered user
as others have said really, its the clutch thats the biggi at that mileage, but again, it could go on to 100 tho.
service history
good previous owner
clean and tidy
may use some oil, usually stops at about 20 thou, some carry on though
owner not long had it and getting rid
no history
you get the drift
service history
good previous owner
clean and tidy
may use some oil, usually stops at about 20 thou, some carry on though
owner not long had it and getting rid
no history
you get the drift
Stewart H
Registered user
Mine can double that and then some
Still runs and rides well, the previous owner replaced the clutch, rear shock and thats pretty much it.
Stewart
Still runs and rides well, the previous owner replaced the clutch, rear shock and thats pretty much it.
Stewart
motobiker
Registered user
Put yourself in the place of someone new to Boxers.. who has probably come from Jap bikes. If you didn't know better it's quite understandable to think that oil use is the sign of something major going on. And so they get rid.
50K is not high mileage for one of these bikes.
Paranoia over a potential clutch failure is pointless. it may happen.. it may not. It could be for sale because the seller has noticed intermittent clutch slip and is put off by the cost. who knows?
Factor in the 'possible' cost of a new clutch when doing the deal... or... pass this one by. There are plenty of these bikes about.. a bit of patience and a willingness to travel and it won't be long before you find something perfect for you.
Oh.. and by the way. if you're offered a GS that the seller says has just had a new clutch fitted. DEMAND to see the receipt. If they have done it on the cheap and only replaced the 'friction plate'... walk away. It's almost a given the clutch will fail again.. sooner rather than later.
50K is not high mileage for one of these bikes.
Paranoia over a potential clutch failure is pointless. it may happen.. it may not. It could be for sale because the seller has noticed intermittent clutch slip and is put off by the cost. who knows?
Factor in the 'possible' cost of a new clutch when doing the deal... or... pass this one by. There are plenty of these bikes about.. a bit of patience and a willingness to travel and it won't be long before you find something perfect for you.
Oh.. and by the way. if you're offered a GS that the seller says has just had a new clutch fitted. DEMAND to see the receipt. If they have done it on the cheap and only replaced the 'friction plate'... walk away. It's almost a given the clutch will fail again.. sooner rather than later.
My 1100 was (pre-Steptoe) looked after by an ape with a lump hammer. That's when he bothered to look after it at all.
It's now at 57k and running like a watch.
Compared with a lot of bikes, the 1100/1150 was still over-engineered and can take a LOT of abuse.
Buy on condition rather than mileage and ask Mr Steptoe's advice and you won't go far wrong.
It's now at 57k and running like a watch.
Compared with a lot of bikes, the 1100/1150 was still over-engineered and can take a LOT of abuse.
Buy on condition rather than mileage and ask Mr Steptoe's advice and you won't go far wrong.
Had my 1100 just over 10 years now and apart from routine maintenance, an alternator belt and a rear bevelbox bearing it's still going strong.
There is no set 'rule' as to when the clutch is going to fail as that all depends on previous owners mechanical awareness
There is no set 'rule' as to when the clutch is going to fail as that all depends on previous owners mechanical awareness
outback ufo
Guest
My 1100 was (pre-Steptoe) looked after by an ape with a lump hammer. That's when he bothered to look after it at all.
It's now at 57k and running like a watch.
Compared with a lot of bikes, the 1100/1150 was still over-engineered and can take a LOT of abuse.
Buy on condition rather than mileage and ask Mr Steptoe's advice and you won't go far wrong.
I best recomend is to make sure you change the fluids regularly... i do the oil every 6K (10K kms) and the gear box and FD every 12K miles (18K Km)
My 2002 1150GS has 163K miles (260K Km) on it and still holding around 50-54 mpg (5.6 to 5.1 Lp100km) at a good 110kph.
I had a lot of parts just wear out at 130K-140K miles.... replaced the whole FD at 140K the starter at 133K, Fuel Pump at 138K... the drive shaft only because the top and bottom pinon bearring were going at 136K... i am still on the oringal rings and heads with 145 and 150 psi in the heads for compression where newly broken cycles are looked to have 140psi on trickle down.
I have ridding my very hard but always did not push it into the overdoing it zone.
when you test ride,get it in top and crack the throttle open and see if the clutch slips,if it does dont worry .Deduct a suitable amount of dosh if it is,dont worry too much you can trash the clutch just by not leaving enough freeplay,it doesnt necessarily mean the bike isnt a good one plus you will know that correctly adjusted and as long as you dont wheely everywhere it will last a long time,remember to replace the complete clutch,a good way of getting a bargain duff clutches ps ignore the remark about freeplay just realised you are looking at a 1150
Worth checking the service history for signs of fixing the following:
Clutch, fork seals, dampers front and rear, brake lines, ignition switch (with wire loom), disks all round, battery.
If they have been replaced - good news. The owner has recognised and repaired the usual weak spots (or paid someone who knows what they are doing to do it for him). If not you are looking at a miracle bike where the normal laws of physics are suspended or just a snotter waiting for an unfortunate new owner. Only you can decide.
Then of course you have to look at the usual stuff with any bike - tyre condition, bearing play (head, wheels and driveline), accident damage, wheels (spokes and rims), brake pads etc. etc.
When you've done all that you can look at the owner - nice house, loads of money, pride in the bike, snap-on tool kit in an immaculate garage - you get the picture!
Point is you won't get all of this and there are no guarantees - just try and push the averages in your favour.
Clutch, fork seals, dampers front and rear, brake lines, ignition switch (with wire loom), disks all round, battery.
If they have been replaced - good news. The owner has recognised and repaired the usual weak spots (or paid someone who knows what they are doing to do it for him). If not you are looking at a miracle bike where the normal laws of physics are suspended or just a snotter waiting for an unfortunate new owner. Only you can decide.
Then of course you have to look at the usual stuff with any bike - tyre condition, bearing play (head, wheels and driveline), accident damage, wheels (spokes and rims), brake pads etc. etc.
When you've done all that you can look at the owner - nice house, loads of money, pride in the bike, snap-on tool kit in an immaculate garage - you get the picture!
Point is you won't get all of this and there are no guarantees - just try and push the averages in your favour.
EricGS
Registered user
I'm in this situation now myself and the seller is a mate of mine. Just didn't know that the full kit had to be replaced. He had pics and all to so the clutch had been done but admits that he thought you only had to do the friction plate. Now it's slipping again in sixth. I'll get the clutch kit and get him to fit it in a bit But goes to show you live and learn andthe above is very good advice.
raginmund
Registered user
What's in that 48k service? I bought mine with 54k on it and - touch wood - none of the early warning signs are there. The bike was home serviced after 37k, and I know the belt and all fluids were done at 52k.
motobiker
Registered user
The 48K service is the same as the 24K.. and is simply a major service with the fuel filter and Alternator drive belt thrown in.
I don't consider either to be drastically important. Maybe moreso for the Filter if you've been overseas and have had possible bad fuel... but otherwise?? its a tank emptied and off jobbie. not exactly a 'biggie' - just time consuming.
As for the drive belt.. why change it if its fine? the symptoms of it going wrong are pretty simple.. and these things dont simply 'fail' - but its not exactly time consuming to replace.. or indeed check - but yours has been done.. so its not a concern.
Why you would want to replace the rear bearing beats me completely... that is most certainly NOT part of the maintenance routine for these bikes.. that's pure paranoia. Completely unecessary on a 52K bike.
If I'm incorrect in this.. then I'm sure Steptoe will be along to reprimand me.
These, the final drive output bearing, can be simply changed with hand tools. The parts only cost around £35 from a dealer. ALthough I made use of a domestic oven and freezer Steptoe has a thread showing how it can be done with tyre leavers at the side of the road.
Don't worry about it, I changed mine at 26,000 after the original collapsed and at 57,500 it's still going strong.
Nothing else major either and it goes better than it did with 10,000 on the clock.
