I'm leaving my winter springs on with spring oil. Bit concerned this may invalidate my warranty? There was a fella at the garage who filled my crankcase with a 78% nitrogen 21% oxygen mix for £10 after they'd done my oil - bargain.
Is my new GSA using too much oil?
- Thread starter snerkler
- Start date
If your concerned about the oil, ring Rainbow.
Mine has used virtually no oil in 300 miles but judging (from your photo) the colour of your headers after the first 50 miles you ride a lot harder than me. My exhausts are a nice amber after 300 miles and I didn't think I'd been hanging around.
Mike
Mine has used virtually no oil in 300 miles but judging (from your photo) the colour of your headers after the first 50 miles you ride a lot harder than me. My exhausts are a nice amber after 300 miles and I didn't think I'd been hanging around.
Mike
Both myself and a mate bought new GSA's last Sept. Now done 5K miles each and neither bikes have used a drop of oil. 
snerkler
Registered user
Spoke to rainbow today and they say a litre every 1000 km is acceptable
Think I need to buy shares in Castrol 
I honestly don't know why my headers are so blue, I've honestly not ridden it that hard. Under advice from Rainbow I haven't thrashed it
GSband
Registered user
Hi, oil threads don't get many serious answers anymore, since there's a lot to choose from, and everybody has a preferred oil. But here are some basics :
For a new bike like yours : upto the 6000 miles service only MINERAL oil is recommended by BMW. This has to do with the proper running in of your engine. If you dealer wants to put in synthetic oil at the 600 mile service, he's not doing a good job. Really.
After the 6000 miles service, you have a free choice between mineral/semi synthetic/synthetic oil. They all have their pros and cons, and although there's enough scientific info about, this is where everybody has a personal preference, so it's up to you to do a search and then decide.
What oil specification (e.g. 20W-50) you put in your bike is also up to you, though I'm sure your dealer will have stock oil he wants to sell. Have a look at your manual for approved oil specifications.
Here's MY opinion : my bike's my baby, and my baby gets the best. Synthetic doesn't deteriorate as fast as mineral, it doesn't go acid over winter, and generally speaking its' qualities remain stable over a longer period of time than mineral. So synthetic it is. Then I'm thinking of better lubrication at cold starts, and better lubrication at low temps, so I want a 10W. I've read that the '50' reduces distribution chain clatter. So MY choice is synthetic 10W-50. I'm not using a car oil, since I rev my boxer high from time to time, and bike oils (I'm told) have a better shear resistance. (This is MY solution, I'm sure somebody will come along and tell me I'm a fool - duh).
Now, back to your bike : it's new, and it's using oil. That's common, nothing to worry about, but oil consumption should decrease as your mileage goes up. BMW's statement that consumption of 1L oil per 1000Km is acceptable, is only to avoid owners complaints. It's actually very uncommon to get this high kind of consumption. Some use more than others. Mine consumes 1/2 L on 10000km, but more when riding in the mountains.
Then, reading the oil level through the looking glass can give puzzling results.
This has to do with oil expanding as it gets hot. 4L of oil can expand to 4,3L when it's hot. The BMW manual EXPLICITLY says to check oil when engine is hot. This actually means cold oil will show a lower level seen through the looking glass.
Why does BMW want you to check the oil level when engine's hot ? If you check oil level when cold, and are confronted with what you think is a too low level, you may add too much oil in the cold engine. As it expands, the excess oil may get in touch with the engine crank, and get frothy, and air doesn't lubricate. Also, the surplus of oil may get burnt, and that's no good for the catalytic converter.
So, for a good reading of oil level through the looking glass : ride your engine 'till it's hot (as can be seen on dash). When stopped, put it on centre stand. Wait a few minutes to let oil flow down from all parts of the engine (esp. oil cooler), and then check.
This is the basic info for your boxer. The burden of choosing the oil spec (xW-y) and sort of oil (mineral/semi/synth) I leave to you.
Ah yes : if you have chrome headers, they'll turn blue. If you have the standard headers, they'll turn amber and then rust (which it actually is not).
Enjoy your new bike !
For a new bike like yours : upto the 6000 miles service only MINERAL oil is recommended by BMW. This has to do with the proper running in of your engine. If you dealer wants to put in synthetic oil at the 600 mile service, he's not doing a good job. Really.
After the 6000 miles service, you have a free choice between mineral/semi synthetic/synthetic oil. They all have their pros and cons, and although there's enough scientific info about, this is where everybody has a personal preference, so it's up to you to do a search and then decide.
What oil specification (e.g. 20W-50) you put in your bike is also up to you, though I'm sure your dealer will have stock oil he wants to sell. Have a look at your manual for approved oil specifications.
Here's MY opinion : my bike's my baby, and my baby gets the best. Synthetic doesn't deteriorate as fast as mineral, it doesn't go acid over winter, and generally speaking its' qualities remain stable over a longer period of time than mineral. So synthetic it is. Then I'm thinking of better lubrication at cold starts, and better lubrication at low temps, so I want a 10W. I've read that the '50' reduces distribution chain clatter. So MY choice is synthetic 10W-50. I'm not using a car oil, since I rev my boxer high from time to time, and bike oils (I'm told) have a better shear resistance. (This is MY solution, I'm sure somebody will come along and tell me I'm a fool - duh).
Now, back to your bike : it's new, and it's using oil. That's common, nothing to worry about, but oil consumption should decrease as your mileage goes up. BMW's statement that consumption of 1L oil per 1000Km is acceptable, is only to avoid owners complaints. It's actually very uncommon to get this high kind of consumption. Some use more than others. Mine consumes 1/2 L on 10000km, but more when riding in the mountains.
Then, reading the oil level through the looking glass can give puzzling results.
This has to do with oil expanding as it gets hot. 4L of oil can expand to 4,3L when it's hot. The BMW manual EXPLICITLY says to check oil when engine is hot. This actually means cold oil will show a lower level seen through the looking glass.
Why does BMW want you to check the oil level when engine's hot ? If you check oil level when cold, and are confronted with what you think is a too low level, you may add too much oil in the cold engine. As it expands, the excess oil may get in touch with the engine crank, and get frothy, and air doesn't lubricate. Also, the surplus of oil may get burnt, and that's no good for the catalytic converter.
So, for a good reading of oil level through the looking glass : ride your engine 'till it's hot (as can be seen on dash). When stopped, put it on centre stand. Wait a few minutes to let oil flow down from all parts of the engine (esp. oil cooler), and then check.
This is the basic info for your boxer. The burden of choosing the oil spec (xW-y) and sort of oil (mineral/semi/synth) I leave to you.
Ah yes : if you have chrome headers, they'll turn blue. If you have the standard headers, they'll turn amber and then rust (which it actually is not).
Enjoy your new bike !
mr badger
Registered user
Spoke to rainbow today and they say a litre every 1000 km is acceptable
I honestly don't know why my headers are so blue, I've honestly not ridden it that hard. Under advice from Rainbow I haven't thrashed it
My first 1000 miles used about a litre of oil. Since then (another 9k) about 250ml.
Bluing is what chrome does under heat. Nice!
Number 6
Registered user
Keep it topped up to the max, there is less space for the oil to thrown around and it will use less this way! Someone will say thats "bollox" but a top ex BMW engineer / service manager and race engineer with GP bikes gave me this advice, and I think he know more than most here!
You're absolutely right...................that is bollocks
Do you think it's alright to use some spare mineral oil to top up a bike filled with sythetic oil? Some my say it's bolderdash, but a BMW trained mechanic told me that if you do, you end up with smeg on your rings.
Deleted Member I
Guest
They shouldn't use that much oil if you run in the bike properly. So best take it back to the garage to have it checked that you haven't damaged the engine. Not too much of a problem if you plan to sell it within 2/3 years as the fault will most likely affect the next owner.
I have some Castrol GP (mineral oil specifically for the 1200GS and GSA). They can cost up to £12 per litre bottle at a BMW dealer. As you are a fellow member I can let you have a one for £9.
I have some Castrol GP (mineral oil specifically for the 1200GS and GSA). They can cost up to £12 per litre bottle at a BMW dealer. As you are a fellow member I can let you have a one for £9.
They shouldn't use that much oil if you run in the bike properly. So best take it back to the garage to have it checked that you haven't damaged the engine. Not too much of a problem if you plan to sell it within 2/3 years as the fault will most likely affect the next owner.
I have some Castrol GP (mineral oil specifically for the 1200GS and GSA). They can cost up to £12 per litre bottle at a BMW dealer. As you are a fellow member I can let you have a one for £9.
Come come - as per your other thread. No subs, no selling.
I'll take on this minor task.
Broadly, bike-specific oils are inferior to an equivalent car oils as they don't have friction modifiers* which would shag a wet-plate clutch.
As the R-series don't have wet-plate clutches, it's not an issue. Use car oil to give your engine the best and save a few quid into the bargain.
Greg
*From the Amsoil website:
Another issue with using an automotive type oil in a motorcycle with a wet clutch is that many automotive oils have friction modifiers. Friction modifiers in automotive oils tend to provide increased frictional reduction and offset a portion of the fuel economy lost when the U.S. Government mandated a reformulated gasoline for emissions requirements. However these friction modifiers can be detrimental to proper wet clutch operation and can cause slippage
AberdeenAngus
Registered user
So, oil contains 'friction modifiers'.
You learn something new every day !
You learn something new every day !
snerkler
Registered user
Hi, oil threads don't get many serious answers anymore, since there's a lot to choose from, and everybody has a preferred oil. But here are some basics :
For a new bike like yours : upto the 6000 miles service only MINERAL oil is recommended by BMW. This has to do with the proper running in of your engine. If you dealer wants to put in synthetic oil at the 600 mile service, he's not doing a good job. Really.
After the 6000 miles service, you have a free choice between mineral/semi synthetic/synthetic oil. They all have their pros and cons, and although there's enough scientific info about, this is where everybody has a personal preference, so it's up to you to do a search and then decide.
What oil specification (e.g. 20W-50) you put in your bike is also up to you, though I'm sure your dealer will have stock oil he wants to sell. Have a look at your manual for approved oil specifications.
Here's MY opinion : my bike's my baby, and my baby gets the best. Synthetic doesn't deteriorate as fast as mineral, it doesn't go acid over winter, and generally speaking its' qualities remain stable over a longer period of time than mineral. So synthetic it is. Then I'm thinking of better lubrication at cold starts, and better lubrication at low temps, so I want a 10W. I've read that the '50' reduces distribution chain clatter. So MY choice is synthetic 10W-50. I'm not using a car oil, since I rev my boxer high from time to time, and bike oils (I'm told) have a better shear resistance. (This is MY solution, I'm sure somebody will come along and tell me I'm a fool - duh).
Now, back to your bike : it's new, and it's using oil. That's common, nothing to worry about, but oil consumption should decrease as your mileage goes up. BMW's statement that consumption of 1L oil per 1000Km is acceptable, is only to avoid owners complaints. It's actually very uncommon to get this high kind of consumption. Some use more than others. Mine consumes 1/2 L on 10000km, but more when riding in the mountains.
Then, reading the oil level through the looking glass can give puzzling results.
This has to do with oil expanding as it gets hot. 4L of oil can expand to 4,3L when it's hot. The BMW manual EXPLICITLY says to check oil when engine is hot. This actually means cold oil will show a lower level seen through the looking glass.
Why does BMW want you to check the oil level when engine's hot ? If you check oil level when cold, and are confronted with what you think is a too low level, you may add too much oil in the cold engine. As it expands, the excess oil may get in touch with the engine crank, and get frothy, and air doesn't lubricate. Also, the surplus of oil may get burnt, and that's no good for the catalytic converter.
So, for a good reading of oil level through the looking glass : ride your engine 'till it's hot (as can be seen on dash). When stopped, put it on centre stand. Wait a few minutes to let oil flow down from all parts of the engine (esp. oil cooler), and then check.
This is the basic info for your boxer. The burden of choosing the oil spec (xW-y) and sort of oil (mineral/semi/synth) I leave to you.
Ah yes : if you have chrome headers, they'll turn blue. If you have the standard headers, they'll turn amber and then rust (which it actually is not).
Enjoy your new bike !
wow thanks for such an in depth and informative reply
I do check my oil in the correct manner by the way.
It does appear that even BMW mechanics can't agree on oil either, I received a reply yesterday saying that they use a running in oil for first 600 miles, and that I should use 20-50 semi synthetic. There's no wonder I get confused
I have to say I like the blue tinge to the headers
wow thanks for such an in depth and informative reply
I do check my oil in the correct manner by the way.
It does appear that even BMW mechanics can't agree on oil either, I received a reply yesterday saying that they use a running in oil for first 600 miles, and that I should use 20-50 semi synthetic. There's no wonder I get confused
I have to say I like the blue tinge to the headers
As long as there is oil in the sightglass when the engine is off...................just ride the fecking thing and spank it's arse
As it's a 1200....................it may or may not detonate the engine on the right hand cylinder at some point, so as long as it in the next 23 months..............you'll get a new engine or an engine rebuild from BMW anyway..............so why worry what oil, just as long as there is some in.......just ride it
snerkler
Registered user
I have run it is ad recommended so I won't have damaged it, if anything it'll be a faultThey shouldn't use that much oil if you run in the bike properly. So best take it back to the garage to have it checked that you haven't damaged the engine. Not too much of a problem if you plan to sell it within 2/3 years as the fault will most likely affect the next owner.
I have some Castrol GP (mineral oil specifically for the 1200GS and GSA). They can cost up to £12 per litre bottle at a BMW dealer. As you are a fellow member I can let you have a one for £9.
I'm not worried though as it does appear that the usage is within normal limits.
GSband
Registered user
Actually, I was aware of this. I had read this on the Amsoil website, and on a German website dedicated to the boxer engine before deciding what oil to put in my bike.
So I went out there looking for a synth car oil with same spec, and intended for high revs. Most synthetic car oils I found are suited for revs upto 6000 rpm, which is already high for a car with a petrol engine. If I want a synthetic caroil that's intended for even higher revs (shear resistance) I'm getting into synth oil intended for sports cars (BMW M3 and the like). That's incredibly expensive oil territory, more expensive than the synthetic 10W-50 bike oil I'm using now, which is not cheap either.
What oil is chosen is very much a personal thing. All kind of factors come into play, scientifically correct or not. Some simply won't care, some consider price, what the dealer has in store, ambient temperatures (Morocco vs. Scandinavia), the interval between oil changes, etc etc. I found the learning proces interesting, and then deciding actually quite fun.
I don't think a 'best' oil exists, that is : an oil that will suit all. That's why we have these neverending discussions on oil
.Having considered all factors I've made this personal choice : I'll stick with synth bike oil 10W-50.
I'm open for suggestions, though : if anyone can help me find a brand synth car oil, at least 10W-50, for revs upto 8500, that's not incredibly expensive, give me a whistle !
What oil is chosen is very much a personal thing. All kind of factors come into play, scientifically correct or not. Some simply won't care, some consider price, what the dealer has in store, ambient temperatures (Morocco vs. Scandinavia), the interval between oil changes, etc etc. I found the learning proces interesting, and then deciding actually quite fun.
I don't think a 'best' oil exists, that is : an oil that will suit all. That's why we have these neverending discussions on oil
Deleted account 211025001
Registered user
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- Feb 3, 2005
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A 10/50 oil is as thin as a 10/40 so when very hot will not keep the cam-chain tensioner quiet in the way that a 20/50 (or for that matter 20/40 will)
AFAIK the first figure refers to the oil's actual vicosity. The second figure tells you that the oil gives the same level of protection a a mon-grade 50 or 40 oil even though it's actual viscocity is much lower.
I think.................................
Andres
