Is the S10 the best value ADV bike out there?

I'm considering the CJS remap. What are the real world benefits?
You can leave it in sport mode all the time is what I found plus the fan comes on at a lower temperature. In fact I tried T mode only yesterday, I'd forgotten it was even there not used in quite a few years. .I was asked if I wanted there to be less engine breaking but I said to keep it the same, just smoother when mine was remapped.

57k on mine from new (2020). It hasn't been totally reliable though, had to replace a few headlight bulbs over the last 6 years.

Only on my second set of rear brake pads, the first set never wore out, I just got nervous of them being old so replaced them. I swear I use the back brake all the time as well.
 
Only on my second set of rear brake pads, the first set never wore out, I just got nervous of them being old so replaced them. I swear I use the back brake all the time as well.
That’s odd as I’ve had the exact opposite. My original rears looked fine at 12k, but at 18k they were literally about to feck the disc up. I was a wee bit surprised to say the least. I fitted a set of EBC mineral pads which barely lasted the next 6k being replaced again at the 24k service with EBC HH pads. These are doing better and are still fine at 36k. I have picked up a set of EBCs heavy bike equivalent pads, think they’re intended for things like Yams big custom bikes that still use the same basic rear caliper. Will try them next. The fronts however, are still the original OE pads and are barely half worn. Got a set of HH’s ready to go in, but I reckon it could be a while yet as last service they’re barely half worn. And like you say, I do use the brakes.
 

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That’s odd as I’ve had the exact opposite. My original rears looked fine at 12k, but at 18k they were literally about to feck the disc up. I was a wee bit surprised to say the least. I fitted a set of EBC mineral pads which barely lasted the next 6k being replaced again at the 24k service with EBC HH pads. These are doing better and are still fine at 36k. I have picked up a set of EBCs heavy bike equivalent pads, think they’re intended for things like Yams big custom bikes that still use the same basic rear caliper. Will try them next. The fronts however, are still the original OE pads and are barely half worn. Got a set of HH’s ready to go in, but I reckon it could be a while yet as last service they’re barely half worn. And like you say, I do use the brakes.
I've just looked and it seems I am misremembering. Changed the rears at only 14k, the replacement set are still fine though (EBC FA319/2HH). I am on my second set of front pads as well, they only got changed at 41k (EBC FA380HH).

Had a couple of fork seals replaced. Weirdly over 40 plus years of riding and only ever had one fork seal go on all those normal right way up forks despite the bikes usually clocking back to zero. But upside down forks come along on my Versys1000 and now the XT12 and they seem to need replacing on a regular basis.
 
I've just looked and it seems I am misremembering. Changed the rears at only 14k, the replacement set are still fine though (EBC FA319/2HH). I am on my second set of front pads as well, they only got changed at 41k (EBC FA380HH).

Had a couple of fork seals replaced. Weirdly over 40 plus years of riding and only ever had one fork seal go on all those normal right way up forks despite the bikes usually clocking back to zero. But upside down forks come along on my Versys1000 and now the XT12 and they seem to need replacing on a regular basis.
I had to do a fork seal last summer prior to my summer trip. Only did the leaky one as had limited time to prep for the holiday. Other side still doing ok so will leave be for now.
 
What’s the electronic suspension like on the ZE models?
Very good JB. Plenty of different settings and you can definitely feel the difference between the settings.

I've got a white power rear spring on mine as well which just hardens the rear up which I like.
 
I had to do a fork seal last summer prior to my summer trip. Only did the leaky one as had limited time to prep for the holiday. Other side still doing ok so will leave be for now.

I've had to change both my front fork seals.

It's not a huge job but the bike does spend a bit of time strapped in teh back of trucks so I'm not surprised or bothered too much.
 
I've had to change both my front fork seals.

It's not a huge job but the bike does spend a bit of time strapped in teh back of trucks so I'm not surprised or bothered too much.
Possibly a similar issue with mine as it goes on my trailer quite a lot, although I tie the front axle on each side so don’t actually put any load into the forks themselves directly. It does get some compression though from the straps I then put round the centre section of the frame at the bottom of the tank.
About to load it for our Easter week as of tomorrow morning. Was hoping to have the new bike ready, but I’m nowhere near atm so the old ones doing this trip, but we’ll be using the box trailer. I can’t strap the front axle in this trailer so front straps will go from the front of the crash bars which will compress the forks a fair bit.
I broke the new bikes number plate when I pulled it out of my garage into my workshop last weekend, caught it on the exhaust of my old CBR6 that it was tucked up beside, so unless the new plate turns up in todays post I couldn’t take it anyway.
This new one has the bigger Givi pannier frames, for the Tracker type boxes. I had a little look the other evening to see what would need doing to make them accept my smaller monolock panniers. Looks like I just need a couple of sleeves welded into the top rail to bolt the monolock reciever too, and then I should be good to go, and could probably still be set back to camlock type if I ever got the bigger boxes.
 

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I'm considering the CJS remap. What are the real world benefits?
I had an early one so power nin 1st-3rd was restricted (throttle maps stopped you getting anywhere near full throttle until 4th) an the road this meant at low speeds acceleration was awful, if I exited a roundabout in 3rd and rolled on it was really weedy, or pulled out of a junction and short shifted to 2nd it would be sluggish, and much worse if two-up - not what you expect from a 1200cc twin.

I intially tried the "clutch switch mod" - short out the switch and it uses a different map, but this is not a good idea long term, according the CJS the map is bad, but it does remove the throttle restrictions in 1st to third and gives an idea of the gains.

I also fitted arrow headers, on a dyno these alone showed a 6BHP gain, but the low down fuelling was awful, initially I had an "ECU Unleashed" flash, but that did not fix the low revs / low throttle surging, and the throttle map was awful, made it very jerky, this was when I visited CJS, who fixed all the issue and picked up another 2-3 BHP.

If buying another one I would not bother with the Arrows, as the bike has enough power 99.9% of the time, but would get the remap for the removal of the throttle restrictions mainly, but I would guess it would also make the bike feel better, just had a remap on a KTM and it is just loads smoother and way more repsonsive at low revs / low throttle and less snatchy opening the throttle at low speed, for ~£400 it is worth it if a bike is to be a "keeper"
 
Got a few more jobs done on the new S10 yesterday afternoon. Finished the wiring for the Innovv cameras and the tracker that I’ve tucked up under the rear seat and rack, and Autocom and sat nav powers. I’d bought the accessory plug from Wiz but forgot how easy the wires pull out. Whatever he crimps them in with doesn’t hold them very tight, so like my other one they’re now soldered into the terminals. New numberplate turned up so thats now fitted too. But still got the givi screen, crash bars, hugger, fender extender, side stand foot, mirrors, and baglux cover to fit, and re fit the front panels. So we’ll be loading the old one shortly to take to Wales for Easter. Saves taxing the new one for just 3 or 4 days of March at least.
 
When I was picking up and delivering bikes for Vindis Ducati I moved all makes and models. The S10 was memorable as the most awkward to manually move around and felt really heavy. I am sure it is lovely under power though.
 
When I was picking up and delivering bikes for Vindis Ducati I moved all makes and models. The S10 was memorable as the most awkward to manually move around and felt really heavy. I am sure it is lovely under power though.

It does feel heavy when pushing it around but once on the move, it's no problem.

I always think of it as an R1150GS but brought bang up to date :)
 
I think I missed my window for owning one of these fantastic steeds.
I've moved to the lower, sport touring type of bike and don't see myself going back to the tall heavy yokes.

I'd imagine that if physical constraints weren't a consideration.....a well farkled S10 could be a great "forever" bike.
 
When I was picking up and delivering bikes for Vindis Ducati I moved all makes and models. The S10 was memorable as the most awkward to manually move around and felt really heavy. I am sure it is lovely under power though.
Were the tyre pressures correct ? I can’t remember it being any heavier to push than any bike of similar size
 
So how’s everyone doing, still got your S10s?
Mines up to 37k.
Cool to see some action on the S10 section again. :)

I bought my (new to me) XT1200ZE at the end of last year, without being able to ride her, and have just taken it out this week and ridden it to work twice. So far she seems good!
Can't wait to rack up more miles in the coming months.

I come from an 1150GS (2002) and a 1200GSA (2010). Both bikes were/are great, but both bikes also suffered from costly and critical final drive/drive shaft issues.

I have high hopes that the S10 proves a reliable and low-maintenance companion for long-distance touring, reliability being the primary reason for the switch.

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Having owned an S10 for around 7 years I was pretty convinced it was up there as the best value for money adventure bike but…
What about this?IMG_4070.jpegIMG_4074.jpegIMG_4073.jpeg
 
Having owned an S10 for around 7 years I was pretty convinced it was up there as the best value for money adventure bike but…
What about this?
Heard it's a great bike, never tried one.

I wish they made big bore touring bikes with that kind of technology today.

For the type of remote and long-distance riding I do, repairability and simplicity is two of my most important requirements to avoid trip ending failures.
BMW unfortunately no longer satisfy those.
I hope the S10 will.
 
Cool to see some action on the S10 section again. :)

I bought my (new to me) XT1200ZE at the end of last year, without being able to ride her, and have just taken it out this week and ridden it to work twice. So far she seems good!
Can't wait to rack up more miles in the coming months.

I come from an 1150GS (2002) and a 1200GSA (2010). Both bikes were/are great, but both bikes also suffered from costly and critical final drive/drive shaft issues.

I have high hopes that the S10 proves a reliable and low-maintenance companion for long-distance touring, reliability being the primary reason for the switch.

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Keep an eye on wheel spoke tension ,especially the rear.5nM ?
Spark plugs (all 4) water migration into the orifice.
I used to look every 12 m and change every 24m ,( copper slip) they are cheap.
Heard nasty story of a S10 have seized spark plugs ,head off the whole 9 yards.
 


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