is there a replacement for the tool section under the seat on an 1150?

In that scenario i'd think the tyre touching the box would be the least of your worries.

Your bollox going through the top of your head may offer some distraction.

Bollix just about covers the above post, I put gaffer tape across the bottom of the mudgard and even in road use with camping gear and two full panniers it got ripped through.
 
Bollix just about covers the above post, I put gaffer tape across the bottom of the mudgard and even in road use with camping gear and two full panniers it got ripped through.

Get a decent shock you cheapskate.
 
Well,the Mk1 is done and I really don't think it's worth bothering with.By the time I put my punture repair kit in,and a spare set of hall sensors,it was virtually full.

Plus the fact it IS possible to get it on full bump,so I think I'll not bother with this particular line.I can forsee a long line of people that have fecked their mudguards and want their money back.

Far better to buy one of my sooper dooper light weight racing top boxes,far more room for junk in there,and just leave the stock toolkit where it is.

Whatcha all think of that then,Huh

tooltray5.jpg


tooltray6.jpg


tooltray7.jpg


tooltray8.jpg


tooltray9.jpg


tooltray10.jpg
 
Looks like an awful lot of work was put in for what would be not much return financially if you're selling them. I have an idea I'm going to follow up next week which might serve my own purpose which I'll post details of when I've had a chance to try it out.

Cheers Vern,

Justin.
 
Looks like an awful lot of work was put in for what would be not much return financially if you're selling them. I have an idea I'm going to follow up next week which might serve my own purpose which I'll post details of when I've had a chance to try it out.

Cheers Vern,

Justin.

OOoo,Do tell:bounce1
 
I'm thinking of heat moulding a sheet of thin plastic into the space using hot air and pressure. Only thin PET, just enough to create a lightweight plastic skin to keep some of the crap out and make a better environment for the intercom and eventually the radio when my girlfriend gets her own bike next year. The awkward bit is that it wouldn't be able to use the toolbox lid, but I'm thinking about that too.

Not sure if it'll work but something I was pondering today and I should have a day next week I can try it out.

J.
 
I'm thinking of heat moulding a sheet of thin plastic into the space using hot air and pressure. Only thin PET, just enough to create a lightweight plastic skin to keep some of the crap out and make a better environment for the intercom and eventually the radio when my girlfriend gets her own bike next year. The awkward bit is that it wouldn't be able to use the toolbox lid, but I'm thinking about that too.

Not sure if it'll work but something I was pondering today and I should have a day next week I can try it out.

J.

I was having similar thoughts, do you have any ideas as to the type of plastic needed ? I was considering hot forming one then possibly using that as a plug and making some in GRP, provided theres actually enough room in there to make it worthwhile without hacking the bike about too badly.

Stewart
 
My first thought was to take the tool tray out, line the top of the mudguard with a couple of sheets of clingfilm folded up over the frame sides and then lay on a couple of layers of fibreglass, wetted down with resin, should lift straight out afterwards and trim with a dremel. Still considering this option.

What I'm thinking of now is using a thin sheet of PET. Get a 2 litre bottle of your favourite soft drink, cut the top and bottom off, slice down it to make a sheet and then apply heat (hot air gun?) to heat it enough to mould. I know you can do this to make moulds of things for models but not sure how this will work in practice on this scale. I only have small, fine point heat gun, not a big hairdryer size unit.
 
My first thought was to take the tool tray out, line the top of the mudguard with a couple of sheets of clingfilm folded up over the frame sides and then lay on a couple of layers of fibreglass, wetted down with resin, should lift straight out afterwards and trim with a dremel. Still considering this option.

What I'm thinking of now is using a thin sheet of PET. Get a 2 litre bottle of your favourite soft drink, cut the top and bottom off, slice down it to make a sheet and then apply heat (hot air gun?) to heat it enough to mould. I know you can do this to make moulds of things for models but not sure how this will work in practice on this scale. I only have small, fine point heat gun, not a big hairdryer size unit.

That is a good idea, I will hack up a pop bottle and see how it responds to my heatgun :thumb2

Stewart
 
Tried to fit a cut up PET bottle into place by heating and moulding with a very find hot air gun, but it's not going to do the job. Think I might try laying up some fiberglass to see how that works instead.
 
It's turning into the Blue Peter thread.

If you can use sticky backed plastic and fizzy drinks bottles, i'm going to use a cereal packet and glue.
 

Similar threads


Back
Top Bottom