GS Mods - Raising the seat on an 1150

[Phil]

Hi! I had a look around but am struggling to find the information I need to raise my 1150's seat. I guess this should be posted in the modifications forum but I am new around here.

I'm in a bit of a rush to do this but feel free to explain how I _should_ do it

I want to shim up the seat. I read a web article about a year ago suggesting using some longer bolts and a bunch of washers. They were using normal bolts (non-allen) and this clogged up the lower seat setting but I'm not too concerned about this.

So, can I safely raise the seat this way by about 1" (25mm these days?)?
Or how high can I go safely?
what gauge bolts do I need (M6/M8 etc)?
What length bolt do I need:
If 1" is safe?
For the highest safe lift?


In the longer term, is there anyone selling a kit that has nicely machined shims and allen keys I should buy?

Any other advice gratefully appreciated

Thanks

Philip

 

[Gecko]

I tried something like this a long time back but found no matter what I tried that raising the seat increased the gap between the front edge of the seat and the tank leaving it open and exposed to rain so I binned the idea and went down the route of getting a Wunderlich 'ergo-hi' saddle. It's 4cm higher than stock and made all the difference for me. I have a 35"inside leg so it makes for a more comfortable sitting position. Worth the money in my opinion.

 

[Phil]

Thank for the quick response but I can't justify the expense for a new seat :-(

I can easily justify the expense for some bolts and washers though

 

[Gecko]

He he .... you'll change

If you try it then try and find some way of sealing that gap that will appear between the front of the saddle and the tank. Maybe some self adhesive foam strip from a DIY shop like the stuff you can get for draft excluding around window frames or similar. Good luck

 

[Aidan1150]

Hi Phil,

I raised my seat by 15mm, but as Gecko says it does leave rather a wide gap between the back of the tank and the front of the seat, which does not bother me too much to be honest.

I had a few stainless steel spacers made up especially for the job and may have some of them in the garage somewhere. Mild steel would do the same job as stainless though.

If I can find them I will post a few pics if you want.

 

[Phil]

Aidan1150,

Thanks. I think I know what you both mean by the gap. I was thinking of just quickly getting the thing working with washers (to save the pain in my legs) before I put the correct solution in (with hand made spacers). I think all I need now are the actual bolt sizes so I can go buy them from my preferred DIY shop

Thanks

 

[Yoda]

What about lowering the pegs instead?

 

[cecilthecat]

Phil

I have some ally spacers that Vern made for me some time ago and they work fine, they are currently gathering dust in my shed as I bought a set of Corbins in the end. You can have them free of charge, the only problem is that I am going to the US for work in the morning and will not be back till the weekend, so if you can wait drop me a line and I can arrange to get them to you somehow.

Simon

[email protected]

 

[Phil]

Phil

I have some ally spacers that Vern made for me some time ago and they work fine, they are currently gathering dust in my shed as I bought a set of Corbins in the end. You can have them free of charge, the only problem is that I am going to the US for work in the morning and will not be back till the weekend, so if you can wait drop me a line and I can arrange to get them to you somehow.

Simon

[email protected]

That is a fantastic offer - Thanks! Since I've only got this Thursday to see if I like the raised seat I could be biting your hand off next week!

Thanks

Phil

 

[Phil]

What about lowering the pegs instead?

Yup! I got a set of Verholen 'peg droppers' and handle bar raisers. The local dealer put the pegs on for me (how lazy can I be?) but refused to put the handle bar raisers in - claiming that the brake cables were too tight. I've since read that cutting a couple of the cable ties releases them enough so I'm putting the handle bar raisers in at a friends house this Thursday (the bike is normally nowhere near my tools and so I have to use his!) (hence the small window of work!).

Talking of pegs, and given the generous offer from cecilthecat, would anyone be interested in the original pegs? They're a little dirty but I'm sure they'd clean up fine!

Phil

 

[Lord Snooty]

Why not try a combination of using some spacers or shims below the seat and also fitting one of those aftermarket gel pads which are about 3/4" of an inch in height. This would remove the problem of having a large gap between the seat and the petrol tank.

Seat Gel pads

If you don't fancy paying £45 for one then I just happen to have one gathering dust in my garage

 

[Phil]

Why not try a combination of using some spacers or shims below the seat and also fitting one of those aftermarket gel pads which are about 3/4" of an inch in height. This would remove the problem of having a large gap between the seat and the petrol tank.

Seat Gel pads

If you don't fancy paying £45 for one then I just happen to have one gathering dust in my garage

Another generous offer! (Though I realise they can never be entirely free).
Are they comfortable?
I have to ask, though, why are you not using it - did you not get on well with it or did you progress to better things?
I'm certainly interested but I don't have skype :-(

Philip

 

[Lord Snooty]

Another generous offer! (Though I realise they can never be entirely free).
Are they comfortable?
I have to ask, though, why are you not using it - did you not get on well with it or did you progress to better things?
I'm certainly interested but I don't have skype :-(

Philip

I used to use it on a Yammy I had but it is no longer needed as I have a Sargeant seat on my GS which is very comfortable.

You can have the gel pad for £20 plus £5 p&p if you can't collect it.

 

[Jim Dow]

Hi Phil. I ride an 1150 GSAdv and I also have an inside leg of 35" and had my seat skinned and repadded about 2" higher. This gave me much better leg room and also relieved the tool roll moulding from pounding my tailbone somewhat. I also installed fastway pegs which lowered the peg height about 1/2". They are also much wider which is more comfortable on the arch of the foot when riding on my feet. I also use adjustable bar raisers from Wunderlich. I think they may be the same as the Touratech ones. These I reversed so the bars are more forward. This is by far the best ergo improvement so far. I roll the bars back and down for road work, and still have a comfortable reach.This relieves the shoulder tension from the elbows up ergonomics of the standard position. It also relieves some pressure on the sacrum by allowing a slight lean forward, particularly on long trips. I,m referring to 600-900 kilometre days which we have plenty of here in Australia. Just roll the bars back up for dirt. I carry a 6 mm allen key in a small carry all on the cross brace for convenience As a matter of interest I also have 6" shorter Adv screen which allows less turbulence around the head = much quieter. It also slicks rain away MUCH more efficiently form the visor, and is cooler for this climate, although I have ridden in our alpine areas without being noticeably cold.
Hope these ideas help you.
Jim.

 

[Phil]

I used to use it on a Yammy I had but it is no longer needed as I have a Sargeant seat on my GS which is very comfortable.

You can have the gel pad for £20 plus £5 p&p if you can't collect it.

I'll pass for the moment but thanks

 

[Phil]

Hi Phil. I ride an 1150 GSAdv and I also have an inside leg of 35" and had my seat skinned and repadded about 2" higher. This gave me much better leg room and also relieved the tool roll moulding from pounding my tailbone somewhat. I also installed fastway pegs which lowered the peg height about 1/2". They are also much wider which is more comfortable on the arch of the foot when riding on my feet. I also use adjustable bar raisers from Wunderlich. I think they may be the same as the Touratech ones. These I reversed so the bars are more forward. This is by far the best ergo improvement so far. I roll the bars back and down for road work, and still have a comfortable reach.This relieves the shoulder tension from the elbows up ergonomics of the standard position. It also relieves some pressure on the sacrum by allowing a slight lean forward, particularly on long trips. I,m referring to 600-900 kilometre days which we have plenty of here in Australia. Just roll the bars back up for dirt. I carry a 6 mm allen key in a small carry all on the cross brace for convenience As a matter of interest I also have 6" shorter Adv screen which allows less turbulence around the head = much quieter. It also slicks rain away MUCH more efficiently form the visor, and is cooler for this climate, although I have ridden in our alpine areas without being noticeably cold.
Hope these ideas help you.
Jim.

Great info thanks - I'll take a look at the fastway pegs

 

[Phil]

That is a fantastic offer - Thanks! Since I've only got this Thursday to see if I like the raised seat I could be biting your hand off next week!

Thanks

Phil

I made some shims out of thick plastic I found at B&Q (!!!) I like the idea of aluminium ones - they sound a little sturdier! If they're > 15mm I'd love to take you up on your offer - how can I contact you to at least cover your postage?

I can understand why everyone progresses to new seats though - the gap at the front between the seat and petrol tank is rather scary!
Philip