Is there any reason not to replace a stud with a bolt?

'what oil' :D

Seriously.....cutting oil as recommended for use when cutting the thread to insert the helicoil insert into......special stuff? Any old lubricant? any good substitute suggestions?

Rocol RTD or Rocol Cleancut
 
Fairy nuff :beerjug:

I have to wait until the parcel from Motorworks arrives anyway, as the two ring gaskets and the bigger oval gasket have got to be replaced at the same time.

The 'fitting one handed' aspect doesn't come into play in this case...the stud on the other side is still there and still tight and in good condition (I did order two studs though just in case)


I like understanding things though, so it was worth asking :thumb2

EDIT.......while I have some proper minds focussed on this.......I'm going top break the cardinal rule and ask 'what oil' :D

Seriously.....cutting oil as recommended for use when cutting the thread to insert the helicoil insert into......special stuff? Any old lubricant? any good substitute suggestions?

Sorry :blast

For a one off a drop or two of EP80/90 will help. The alloy is far softer than the stud so it will be enough rather than buying a tin of cutting compound. Years ago they used tallow, foul smelling stuff.
 
Rocol RTD or Rocol Cleancut

For a one off a drop or two of EP80/90 will help. The alloy is far softer than the stud so it will be enough rather than buying a tin of cutting compound. Years ago they used tallow, foul smelling stuff.


:beerjug: again :thumb2

Tallow is beef fat or something isn't it?
I associate it with oldee stylee candle making :nenau

This is one stud into the ally head, so I'll give it a drop of the Ep90 that i've got a handy bottle of in the toy room :thumb
 
Rotate the tap in a tub of LM grease. This will lubricate and also pick up all the bits of swarf.

Not being funny but do you know how to properly use a tap?
 
Rotate the tap in a tub of LM grease. This will lubricate and also pick up all the bits of swarf.

Not being funny but do you know how to properly use a tap?

Shhhh, Bill could start a whole new 'thread' :blast


:D

No. :blast

Common sense says it's got to go in at the same angle as the centreline of the hole I'm re-tapping.

I have a draper t-bar thing to hold the tapping bit in, and I was going to approach it slowly, keeping it as close to this line as possible after drilling out the hole with the drill bit provided.......That could be tricky so I intend to take off the crash bars to give myself as much room as I can find to proceed squarely to that hole.

Advance a bit, reverse a bit to let swarf come out, go back in, rinse and repeat :nenau

I'm going to poke a widget into the hole that the stud came out of to establish the depth, and will wrap a bit of insulting tape around the tap to show the limit I want to go to.


I don't have an airline, so I was intending to stick a drinking straw into the freshly tapped hole to blow out any swarf.....all hi-tech stuff here :D

Then, using the insert tool, I'll screw in the insert, again, marking the depth off......If it needs two inserts, I'll knock the locating tab off with the tool and remove it (straw again, IDK, but I'll make sure I get it out) then if it needs a second insert, I'll screw that in and remove the tab again.

That done, in theory I ought to be able to re-assemble with the new stud :nenau

I'm guessing it's all a slow , checking at all stages type operation.......but it is the first time I've done it and I'm very happy to pick up any tips :thumb2

I don't mind looking a twat if I'm learning from it* :cool:



*And I bet I'm not the only one who is learning from it all.....I'm just more willing to look daft by asking the question out loud :D
 
I'm looking forward to the bit when the tap bottoms out so you give it some more and the tap snaps :bounce1
 
I'm looking forward to the bit when the tap bottoms out so you give it some more and the tap snaps :bounce1


I may be stupid, but I'm not dumb :P

I've seen a dozen threads here over the years asking how to get hardened steel taps out of various nooks and crannies........so it's something I am aware of :dabone

Thank you for your input though Timothy :kissy2
 
I don't have an airline, so I was intending to stick a drinking straw into the freshly tapped hole to blow out any swarf.....
Whatever you do to get the swarf out and even when drilling - please make sure you wear eye protection :thumb2

ps It's always interesting to read posts like this - even if much of the info is already known :thumb2
 
:D



Advance a bit, reverse a bit to let swarf come out, go back in, rinse and repeat :nenau

I'm going to poke a widget into the hole that the stud came out of to establish the depth, and will wrap a bit of insulting tape around the tap to show the limit I want to go to.


I don't have an airline, so I was intending to stick a drinking straw into the freshly tapped hole to blow out any swarf.....all hi-tech stuff here :D

Then, using the insert tool, I'll screw in the insert, again, marking the depth off......If it needs two inserts, I'll knock the locating tab off with the tool and remove it (straw again, IDK, but I'll make sure I get it out) then if it needs a second insert, I'll screw that in and remove the tab again.

Get a spiral fluted helicoil tap and you won't be needing either an airline or a straw!

Get the correct size insert and you won't need to bodge two inserts in one hole!

Oh, and don't bother with 'insulting tape' , just a few choice expletives of your own should do!

:D
 
Whatever you do to get the swarf out and even when drilling - please make sure you wear eye protection :thumb2

ps It's always interesting to read posts like this - even if much of the info is already known :thumb2

Also make sure you go for a wee first and have a clean hanky:thumb
:D
 
Get a spiral fluted helicoil tap and you won't be needing either an airline or a straw!

Get the correct size insert and you won't need to bodge two inserts in one hole!


I'm operating on a miniscule budget, so I'll have to do with what I have.

The kit i got today is this from Neilsen.

I have no idea if that's a 'spiral fluted helicoil tap' or not, but it's what I have :)

Looking at the inserts, I'm going to need two of them.....I'll just have to be careful when inserting the second one so it doesn't start compressing the first out of the thread*.

It's all good fun :thumb

*I've already imagined that through.....I won't use the tab remover to take off the second tab, I'll use some long nosed pliers instead, unless the removal tool will do it easily without springing the coil out of the thread.
 
I'm operating on a miniscule budget, so I'll have to do with what I have.

The kit i got today is this from Neilsen.

I have no idea if that's a 'spiral fluted helicoil tap' or not, but it's what I have :)

Looking at the inserts, I'm going to need two of them.....I'll just have to be careful when inserting the second one so it doesn't start compressing the first out of the thread.

It's all good fun :thumb

So you've bought the kit before knowing how to do the job :clap As you say , it's all good fun! :thumb

Ps: No they're not spiral fluted.

You've just reminded me , I need to buy a lump hammer - I have a clutch to adjust...
 
Looking at the inserts, I'm going to need two of them.....I'll just have to be careful when inserting the second one so it doesn't start compressing the first out of the thread*.

Bollocks..... :nono
Use only one helicoil. If you damage the inner one, you will not get it out again when a second insert is against it.
One helicoil insert is ample fixing for a standard M8 engineering stud to screw into it in your casting.
I told you earlier, the M8 inserted hole has higher strength than a basic M8 hole into alloy, so the extra thread you are trying to gain by fitting two inserts is overkill, and risky to achieve.
 
Once you have your new studs there, screw an insert on to the shorter of the two threaded ends and you'll see what I mean, the inserts are longer when fitted, and your kit describes the M8 insert as M8x1.25x8mm, which should be ample for this application.....
 
So you've bought the kit before knowing how to do the job :clap As you say , it's all good fun! :thumb

Ps: No they're not spiral fluted.

You've just reminded me , I need to buy a lump hammer - I have a clutch to adjust...

:D

I bought the most comprehensive kit I could find within my budget for this and any future jobs.......It'll work, I have faith :thumb

Bollocks..... :nono
Use only one helicoil. If you damage the inner one, you will not get it out again when a second insert is against it.
One helicoil insert is ample fixing for a standard M8 engineering stud to screw into it in your casting.
I told you earlier, the M8 inserted hole has higher strength than a basic M8 hole into alloy, so the extra thread you are trying to gain by fitting two inserts is overkill, and risky to achieve.

Once you have your new studs there, screw an insert on to the shorter of the two threaded ends and you'll see what I mean, the inserts are longer when fitted, and your kit describes the M8 insert as M8x1.25x8mm, which should be ample for this application.....


Thanks Timpo, I can understand that......I think I would have seen it as I did it if you see what I mean.....it certainly makes sense that the insert will form to the new thread and expand/uncoil along its channel :thumb2

:beerjug:
 
Best get someone who knows what they're doing to successfully complete the task in hand

Much less grief, I expect:thumb2
 
Best get someone who knows what they're doing to successfully complete the task in hand

Much less grief, I expect:thumb2

:blast

No....'cos that way, I'll never learn.

I'm quite happy to look daft and ask the questions......that's what it's about, learning and then being able to do it easily the next time.

The virtual-hand holding here is fantastic......I'm not totally incapable and I do learn fast, and more importantly, I WANT to learn ......how else can anyone go forwards?

I'd rather go through the grief if I have to, and look daft asking the questions along the way, to get to the point where I'm not afraid to get stuck in.....it's the 'better pay someone who knows what they're doing' attitude that keeps overpriced dealers in business.....sorry, that's not for me :comfort
 
.....it certainly makes sense that the insert will form to the new thread and expand/uncoil along its channel :thumb2

That's why I suggest screwing an insert up the short end of the stud, this will show you exactly what happens in side the hole when the insert is applied.
Once the insert is in the hole, ie, just flush with the top edge of the hole, and you have broke the tang off, the expanding effect of the coil will hold the insert in position, and jobs a good'un. :thumb2
 


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