is this bad?
- Thread starter r1200rt
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It doesn't look promising! But it could/might be just surface rust.
Only way to find out is to lower the FD and take a proper look at it all...
Also, the concertina gaiter looks all very dry. There should be some grease in there (Staburags 30 (I think it's 30?))... If it was there and all since washed away, that may be a less promising sign
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Only way to find out is to lower the FD and take a proper look at it all...
Also, the concertina gaiter looks all very dry. There should be some grease in there (Staburags 30 (I think it's 30?))... If it was there and all since washed away, that may be a less promising sign
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The grease goes where the gaiter meets the face of the swingarm to help prevent water entering the swingarm
If the top rubber gaiter is broken like it clearly looks, and has been letting in water to corrode you drive shaft, I recon there is a pool of water at the bottom end of the swinging arm.
You need to either replace the top rubber gaiter, or reseal it somehow to stop water ingress.
If it was me I would dismantle the drive train, examine and replace if necessary either or bother rubber gaiters and more importantly examine the drive shaft. The drive shaft may just need a cleaning of surface corrosion and greasing. But if it’s been spinning in a pool of water at the bottom of the swinging arm, then who knows what state it’s in.
You need to either replace the top rubber gaiter, or reseal it somehow to stop water ingress.
If it was me I would dismantle the drive train, examine and replace if necessary either or bother rubber gaiters and more importantly examine the drive shaft. The drive shaft may just need a cleaning of surface corrosion and greasing. But if it’s been spinning in a pool of water at the bottom of the swinging arm, then who knows what state it’s in.
mmm.. ok. i've resealed the gaiter with silicon grease, it's not split. that's about the limit of my skills sadly. i have more chance of learning to figure skate than "dismantling the drive train"
Just lower the FD. It's a really simple job...
Wheel off
Brake caliper off - hang out up out of the way
Cable guide along top of swing arm off
Remove the little cable guides/grips on the back face of the FD
Gently prise out the abs sensor from the FD and get it out and away free.
Get a Jack/block/ something under the FD
Undo the torque reaction bar that runs about parallel to the swingarm, just above it.
Carefully lower the FD as you lower the Jack/blocks/ whichever...
It literally takes about 10min. I've just done mine yesterday. You'll have to do this anyway just to replace the gaiter... Can all be done with the bike on the centre stand - I'd guess that's true for the RT also?!
If the FD doesn't fall down (pivoting on the big 'hinge' on the underside of the swingarm end) with minimal help, then the shafts may be rusted together...at which point your onto Ian's very sensible suggestions...to remove the drive train completely...
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Wheel off
Brake caliper off - hang out up out of the way
Cable guide along top of swing arm off
Remove the little cable guides/grips on the back face of the FD
Gently prise out the abs sensor from the FD and get it out and away free.
Get a Jack/block/ something under the FD
Undo the torque reaction bar that runs about parallel to the swingarm, just above it.
Carefully lower the FD as you lower the Jack/blocks/ whichever...
It literally takes about 10min. I've just done mine yesterday. You'll have to do this anyway just to replace the gaiter... Can all be done with the bike on the centre stand - I'd guess that's true for the RT also?!
If the FD doesn't fall down (pivoting on the big 'hinge' on the underside of the swingarm end) with minimal help, then the shafts may be rusted together...at which point your onto Ian's very sensible suggestions...to remove the drive train completely...
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Your call!
When similar happened to me, I was amazed at the amount of dirty water that came out of the bottom end of the swinging arm. If water gets in at the top, it can’t get out if the bottom gaiter is properly sealed. I was lucky to catch it in time, so no damage was done to the drive shaft Universal joints, just light surface corrosion on the shaft.
Clearly the correct sealing of the swinging arm is a problem identified by BMW, which is why on the newer water cooled models they have fitted a drain valve at the lowest point of the swinging arm.
Watch a couple of YouTube videos first.
you dont want to start then realise you dont have the tools to finish lol
plus the video will show how easy it is.
bank holiday coming up.... sideline a day to do it in peace without wife n kids pecking your head
obviously if you watch a video and think fook that!!!
leave it
you dont want to start then realise you dont have the tools to finish lol
plus the video will show how easy it is.
bank holiday coming up.... sideline a day to do it in peace without wife n kids pecking your head
obviously if you watch a video and think fook that!!!
leave it
Don’t even think about going there!
The final drive is a sealed unit and completely separate from the swinging arm and driveshaft.
Fair enough!
You could always take to a bike mechanic who could at least assess it for you, and tell you what needs sorting.
“Steptoe” of this Parrish has an outstanding reputation and is near you.
Book it into Steptoe and get it done....
Behind that rubber isn't a a well of oil.
that part is free to spin and just greased and meant to be kept dry by the boot seal.
if water gets in past the rubber seal it runs down and pools in the bottom, splashing up onto moving parts as you ride.
bit like a prop shaft you see under trucks.
the front end is separate and oiled
that part is free to spin and just greased and meant to be kept dry by the boot seal.
if water gets in past the rubber seal it runs down and pools in the bottom, splashing up onto moving parts as you ride.
bit like a prop shaft you see under trucks.
the front end is separate and oiled
He does everything..Pm him..
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Cold hard facts,
The boot hasn’t been fitted correctly for quite some time.
You’ve got water ingress into the area of the lower u/j,
The u/j may or may not be ok.
The water may have made its way down to the splines and caused problems.
It may also have caused corrosion on the seal compression ring on the final drive..
It needs looking at by someone who knows the bikes.
This needs to happen ASAP,cos if the fd input spline is corroded you will struggle to find a used example.
A recent customer had to wait 4 months for a replacement fd.
A new prop is very expensive.
The cost of a new final drive,plus a new drive shaft will probably be close to the value of the bike if it has other issues.
The boot hasn’t been fitted correctly for quite some time.
You’ve got water ingress into the area of the lower u/j,
The u/j may or may not be ok.
The water may have made its way down to the splines and caused problems.
It may also have caused corrosion on the seal compression ring on the final drive..
It needs looking at by someone who knows the bikes.
This needs to happen ASAP,cos if the fd input spline is corroded you will struggle to find a used example.
A recent customer had to wait 4 months for a replacement fd.
A new prop is very expensive.
The cost of a new final drive,plus a new drive shaft will probably be close to the value of the bike if it has other issues.
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