Is this problem caused by my speedo sensor playing up?

Bones

Bones

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Have a problem with my 06 GS that started yesterday morning. Just after hitting the London traffic after my usual thrash from home the red triangle of death appeared along with flashing Brake Failure. I also noticed the speedo had stopped working except the odd flick of the needle. A quick dab of the brakes to see what I had and all seemed good but I still pulled over at the next safe spot and had a quick check over and nothing seemed wrong. The brakes were working normally, even the servo, so I switched off, restarted, and the warning lights were gone, only to reappear a further mile or so up the road when the speedo once again started playing silly buggers. I reckon in my naive lack of knowledge that it's the speedo sensor causing the Brake Failure light to come on, something to do with the ABS maybe (because the speedo wasn't working). It could just be that the bike is absolutely caked in shit after leafy Kent has experienced weather of Northern unpleasantness. She's 65K old so something or lots of things could be knackered and also 2 nights ago on the way home I hit a boulder in the road (it suddenly emerged from between the wheels of the car in front) at about 50 that caused a bit of a heart in mouth moment. Anyone got any ideas what my fault is caused by? Thanks
 
Bear said:
A stroppy speedo sensor is very likely to be the source of your problems. This thread http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/192097-1200-FD-oil-change-with-pics! will show you where it is. If the end is covered with bits of steel swarf it's an early warning of a tired final drive, about which you'll read lots in these pages.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I also found this thread which seems to describe the same symptoms as I have. http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showth...Warning-Light-Fault-–-How-I-fixed-the-problem

I will remove the rear wheel and have a good look around at the weekend.
 
I couldn't get the rear wheel off yesterday, not had a problem before so I assume the last tyre fitter was a bit enthusiastic. I notice the rear pads were a bit thin so changed them and while I was at it I gave the sensor a good clean. I managed to go two days without getting the fault again, it seems to be motorway runs that cause it to fail. Switch off and on again once off the mtorway and no more problems.

Obviously the sensor will have to be changed sometime (when I can the rear wheel off!!), does anyone know how much a new one is? Sherlock want £59 for a 12 year old one!!
 
I would be loathe to trust a used sensor, I replaced my rear speedo/ABS sensor a few years ago and I don't recall it being that pricey from my local dealership.

Be sure to get the correct item, I believe the speedo sensor differs between early and later bikes.
 
Pukmeister said:
I would be loathe to trust a used sensor, I replaced my rear speedo/ABS sensor a few years ago and I don't recall it being that pricey from my local dealership.

Be sure to get the correct item, I believe the speedo sensor differs between early and later bikes.
Click to expand...

It may be 12 years old but it's only done 14K miles :confused: I did consider telling them it didn't work and returning my old one (dodgy daughter came up with that one)

The stealers are pretty good at ordering the right part, they do it off the VIN number.

£123 + p&p + a bit for a new o ring and tiny bolt https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=6&Q=1200gs+speedo+sensor&x=0&y=0
 
How much ???

That seems way steeper than what I paid to repair my failed speedo/ABS on my 2008 GSA which has the later part.

I would check with your nearest Motorrad agent for a retail price in case Motorworks are putting a huge mark-up on the part.

If you buy the used one be sure to get a guarantee for it at that price. They will most likely put a mark on it to prevent you stiffing them by returning the faulty one if they have any sense, I presume they aren't complete mugs.
 
Mine has worked fine ever since I opened the connector and removed/refitted the sensor to the back wheel. There's a used one on eBay for a 2003 to 2007 for £80. A huge wedge for something that would cost 2-1/2p if it was from Ford or Fiat.
 
£123 for a coil in plastic!!! and it costs pence to make!!!

Good old oem markups!

Mart ;)
 
Bendy toy said:
Mine has worked fine ever since I opened the connector and removed/refitted the sensor to the back wheel.
Click to expand...

If I could get the rear wheel out I would try that. The last tyre fitter must have been a bit keen as I have never had a problem removing the wheel before but now I can't move any of the bolts :(

Pukmeister said:
They will most likely put a mark on it to prevent you stiffing them by returning the faulty one if they have any sense, I presume they aren't complete mugs.
Click to expand...

That's more or less what I told my dodgy daughter who came up with the idea.
 
The connector lives beneath the seat. There's no others between there and the FD.
Mines a TC and I can just about remove the sensor with the wheel on, but it's fiddly. Obviously, removing the wheel is going to be an essential at some point anyway.
Gonna need a bit more leverage on those bolts.
The used sensor I put on was £25 on eBay. Still going after 15k miles. Shouldn't have said that! Bound to fail now.
Have a spare one that was on a second hand r nine T FD I picked up. No, it's not for sale!
 
I will keep an eye on ebay before I finally order a new one. After home servicing for the last 30K miles I am going to treat the old girl to some pampering from my local independent so he can sort out the wheel bolts ;)
 
Be 100% sure you have the correct Torx bit then a 600mm breaker bar will shift those wheel bolts. Lefty Lucy of course ;)

If you don't have a breaker bar, you can use your socket set T bar with the long extension. Plug the torx into a bolt and support the extension bar free end on a jack. Then you can stand on the T bar to shift the wheel bolt.

Correct wheel nut torque is 60Nm I do them to 20Nm then go round again with 60Nm.

http://www.r1200gs.info/misc/torque.html
 
This purports to be a new genuine item for £25. It doesn't look genuine to me (and mines a 2006 :( )

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-BMW-R...239900?hash=item33c445c91c:g:K-YAAOSwo4pYFGkE

Bendy toy said:
Be 100% sure you have the correct Torx bit then a 600mm breaker bar will shift those wheel bolts. Lefty Lucy of course ;)

If you don't have a breaker bar, you can use your socket set T bar with the long extension. Plug the torx into a bolt and support the extension bar free end on a jack. Then you can stand on the T bar to shift the wheel bolt.

Correct wheel nut torque is 60Nm I do them to 20Nm then go round again with 60Nm.

http://www.r1200gs.info/misc/torque.html
Click to expand...

Thanks
 
Bones said:
It may be 12 years old but it's only done 14K miles :confused: I did consider telling them it didn't work and returning my old one (dodgy daughter came up with that one)

The stealers are pretty good at ordering the right part, they do it off the VIN number.

£123 + p&p + a bit for a new o ring and tiny bolt https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=6&Q=1200gs+speedo+sensor&x=0&y=0
Click to expand...

Just seen this. I have just paid £68 odd delivered for a new sensor from Williams Manchester.
 
If I didn't have a spare already, I would have already bought it.
Good price, even 2nd hand and if it's obvious it's not new, you're covered anyway.
As you say, no good to you. Think you're looking for one with white connectors.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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