JimVonBaden
Guest
After finding out that the 07 R1200 series bikes will require an oil change at 600 miles, I decided to change my 05 "permanent" oil now, at 20K miles, just in case.
Here are the steps:
1. Remove the fender (GS models only).
2. Remove the rear wheel.
3. Unbolt the Brake Caliper and hang it with some wire to the frame.
4. Remove the rear speed sensor, both screws and the clip, and hang it with the brake caliper.
5. Remove oil drain plug, and drain off the oil.
6. Release the paralink at the rear and support the final drive with a strap (it's now flopped down, with the fill plug at the bottom) I didn't do this; I just held it in place for a couple minutes. The drive shaft comes out easily, but you may need to push it down a bit to get it to relaese.
7. Clean the drive shaft and FD input shaft, then add Moly 60, or equivalent lube, to the shaft and splines.
8. Install the rubber gaiter, pivot the rear-wheel drive up and introduce the bevel-pinion shaft into the universal shaft. If necessary, turn the FD gently back and forth to facilitate this operation. (This is made way easier if you have the bike in neutral. I took half an hour to figure this out, and it still took a few minutes)
9. Reconnect the paralever link. (Install the bolt and torque it down to 43 nm.
10. Clip the gaiter back in place.
11. Put the drain plug back in, after you clean it and put some oil on the O-ring.
12. Fill the final drive with oil via the speed sensor hole, with .22 liters of oil. (Do it VERY slowly. The oil will not go in fast, and will come back out the hole and run all over the place. DAMHIK)
13. Grease the speed sensor O-ring and put it in the final drive, followed by the greased speed sensor and then install the screw, the clamp screw, and the clip.
14. Install the caliper, remember to reinstall the fender holder on the lower bolt.
15. Install the wheel, torque it to 60nm.
16. Install the rear fender (GS only), and make sure to start all three screws before tightening them down.
Tools needed:
· 16mm Socket and ratchet
· Torx Sockets:
o T-50, T-45, T-30, T-25
· 3/8” 3” extension
· ¼” 6” extension, depending on your Torx socket set
· Torque Wrench
· Flat blade screw driver
· Measuring cup
Supplies:
· Paper Towels, lots of them
· Synthetic gear oil, 75/140
· Honda Moly 60 grease
· Q-tip
· Bolt holder
· Wire, or coat hanger
Here is the old oil. It was definitely darker than the new, but not bad for 20K miles. There were no shavings in the old oil, and the little amount of fuzz on the speed sensor was negligible.
I am very glad I did it, and will be doing my GF’s 12ST next week, along with a couple others at our tech day.
Overall it should take less than an hour, and is not too bad. Just make sure you have all the tools you need, and plenty of paper towels!
Jim
Here are the steps:
1. Remove the fender (GS models only).
2. Remove the rear wheel.
3. Unbolt the Brake Caliper and hang it with some wire to the frame.
4. Remove the rear speed sensor, both screws and the clip, and hang it with the brake caliper.
5. Remove oil drain plug, and drain off the oil.
6. Release the paralink at the rear and support the final drive with a strap (it's now flopped down, with the fill plug at the bottom) I didn't do this; I just held it in place for a couple minutes. The drive shaft comes out easily, but you may need to push it down a bit to get it to relaese.
7. Clean the drive shaft and FD input shaft, then add Moly 60, or equivalent lube, to the shaft and splines.
8. Install the rubber gaiter, pivot the rear-wheel drive up and introduce the bevel-pinion shaft into the universal shaft. If necessary, turn the FD gently back and forth to facilitate this operation. (This is made way easier if you have the bike in neutral. I took half an hour to figure this out, and it still took a few minutes)
9. Reconnect the paralever link. (Install the bolt and torque it down to 43 nm.
10. Clip the gaiter back in place.
11. Put the drain plug back in, after you clean it and put some oil on the O-ring.
12. Fill the final drive with oil via the speed sensor hole, with .22 liters of oil. (Do it VERY slowly. The oil will not go in fast, and will come back out the hole and run all over the place. DAMHIK)
13. Grease the speed sensor O-ring and put it in the final drive, followed by the greased speed sensor and then install the screw, the clamp screw, and the clip.
14. Install the caliper, remember to reinstall the fender holder on the lower bolt.
15. Install the wheel, torque it to 60nm.
16. Install the rear fender (GS only), and make sure to start all three screws before tightening them down.
Tools needed:
· 16mm Socket and ratchet
· Torx Sockets:
o T-50, T-45, T-30, T-25
· 3/8” 3” extension
· ¼” 6” extension, depending on your Torx socket set
· Torque Wrench
· Flat blade screw driver
· Measuring cup
Supplies:
· Paper Towels, lots of them
· Synthetic gear oil, 75/140
· Honda Moly 60 grease
· Q-tip
· Bolt holder
· Wire, or coat hanger
Here is the old oil. It was definitely darker than the new, but not bad for 20K miles. There were no shavings in the old oil, and the little amount of fuzz on the speed sensor was negligible.
I am very glad I did it, and will be doing my GF’s 12ST next week, along with a couple others at our tech day.
Overall it should take less than an hour, and is not too bad. Just make sure you have all the tools you need, and plenty of paper towels!
Jim
- enough to leave a stain on the casing. Booked into NOG next week... but, would like to use the bike this weekend.
