Italian Dolomites for Sun & Snow

[AndyT]

Well this years trip to Europe is over and it was my best ever. We took the New Ferry from Scotland to Belgium and I cannot sing it's praises enough. The only downside is the food was quite pricey so I suggest anyone going for breakfasy just gets a coffee and Sandwich in the Bar as you will never eat £8 worth of food from the buffet.

Our first destination was Klotten in the Mossel Valley not far from Koblenz which ias a fantastic ride through Belgium and down the A258 past the Nurburgring racetrack. Fine weather and not a speck of gravel made for a brisk ride. There are several biker friendly hotels in Klotten and the food is excellent with wine in a resteraunt at £4 a bottle - superb. Be warned though if you stay there pick a hotel away from the railway line as they fly through the village all night long..........aaarrrggghhh

Here's a view of the Mossel at Klotten

 

[AndyT]

on through Germany.....

From the Mossell we header for Wurzburg and planned to ride down through the Romantic Road although to be honest we never found it. By using the GPS (Which was the star of the holiday by the way), we just took minor roads and headed south towards Fussen and the famous Neuwansteinn Castle of King Ludwig II. This is the castle that Walt Disney modelled his Cinderella Castle on and it is even more spectacular in the flesh. One of the benefits for me was by taking the minor roads we sometimes followed untarmaced roads which we great for the GS but scary for my colleague on his New FJR1300.

A Bavarian track that eventually lead us through a wooded track.

 

[AndyT]

to Bavaria

As we headed into Bavaria I couldn't help but to notice that Churches in every Village had that Tyrolean look about them. Each Village also seemed to have a huge pole with a Fir tree stuck at the Top. You can just see one in the distance on the right of this church.
Anyone any ideas what they are for or symbolise???

 

[AndyT]

Advancing into Austria

Still heading South we arrived in Austria where I had loaded more detailed Maps into my GPS. I only have a 64Meg card so couldn't fit detailed maps of Germany in just the less detailed ones but managed to fit in all of Autria, Switzerland and Northern Italy.

My memory of Austria didn't let me down and the pictures do not do justice to the mountain passes. Petrol here was also cheaper than Germany. I was amazed by how many bikers were out on the roads. It was the most bikes I've seen outside the Isle of Man. I was also pleased to say that the GS was one of the most popular with Honda Transalps and Africa twins very prominent and also supprisingly cruisers of every make especially Moto Guzzis.

 

[AndyT]

Ferne Pass

We stopped on the Ferne Pass and chatted to a group of German bikers who were on their way home after a week in the Alps. They gave us all there maps which are issued to them by the German Motorcycle club and highlight all the best roads for a Motorcycle. Armed with this we had the most fantastic time over the next 6 days. I am going to try and find a website where I can get some more of these maps because apparently they do them for alot of areas not just the Alps.

Here's one of the coffee stops on the Ferne Pass.

 

[AndyT]

Hotels in Austria

I was suprised to find it quite difficult to find accomodation in the ski resorts in Austria as they were absolutely dead. We tried St.Anton without luck, Zurs (nobody home), and eventually stayed in the Lech Hotel which is upmarket but with the best breakfast I've ever had in a Hotel all for £33. It was quite cold in the evenings but bear in mind the Arlberg region of Austria is quite high up. The next day we headed off and took a smaller road which had again fantastic views. I bypassed on of the tunnels and took the walkers path to get this shot. however about 600 metres up the road it was closed due to subsidence and a small avalanche....quite unbelievable actually.

 

[AndyT]

Onwards to Italy

We stayed the night in a hotel just up the Brenner pass and got as Taxi into Innsbruck for a Saturday night on the town - highly recommended as the beer is great especially washed down with Jeigermeister (spelling??).
We took the smaller road over the Brenner pass not the Toll road and this is a never ending road of bends with more bikes than cars...just great.
Once into Italy we headed East to Val Gardena and the start of the Dolomites. They are the most impressive mountains I have ever seen and cannot recommend them highly enough. I only remember blue skies but the picture below says different. Well at least it never rained. Once again throughout the Dolomites were biker frienly hotels and cafes with the best food in the world outside of India or Rushholme in Manchester.

 

[Steve]

Re: to Bavaria

Each Village also seemed to have a huge pole with a Fir tree stuck at the Top. You can just see one in the distance on the right of this church.
Anyone any ideas what they are for or symbolise???

I was in the Mosel area a couple of weeks ago, and all the towns and villages there had them as well. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it's something to do with May Day. I think they're complete fir/pine trees, with the lower branches and bark stripped off.

 

[AndyT]

Yet more hills and great roads

One thing that tripped us up a few times in Italy was alot of the Petrol stations seemed to be 24hr cash or card only affairs with the problem being that they didn't take our credit cards or my bank card. It was okay if you had a 10 Euro note but if you only had a 20 Euro note you would have to much to put in your tank and have to share the fuel out. Not to worry with views like this who cares...............

 

[AndyT]

Dolomites and Pasta

Another thing that caught us out a few times was not seeing the signs for "Pass closed". We got caught out a few times once in Austria when the Pass over to Italy from Obergurgel was closed (after travelling about 20 miles up the valley), and here on a small road going over the top into Bormio. I asked if we could take the bypass around the tunnel at which point he just laughed so I took his word for it. Well worth the trip up there though however I was feeling a bit sorry for my mate on his FJR which was a handful on the single track hairpins. His rear brake actaully failed the next day due to the fluid bopiling over when decending one pass which was a continous snaking road with 60-75 hairpins on a 1 in 4 or 5 gradient.

 

[AndyT]

Onward to Switzerland

From Bormio we wanted to take the Stevlio pass but this is still closed and opens June 1st (tomorrow). Our only route was over to Livigno which took us through our first snow storm. From Livigno we headed towards Switzerland along a huge reservoir over the dam at the end and through a single track Toll tunnel with traffic lights on. This was 8 Km long and I thought the lights were broken at first but its not the sort of thing you can head down without being sure. Switzerland was our only rainy day and we headed off to St Moritz which was a huge letdown....no Aston MArtins or blokes in black polo necked shirts jumping off bridges with a box of milk tray under thier arm. Infact just a very boring town so off to Davos for some sight seeing. DAvos is very high up and was very cold and wet so we headed back East towards Austria. The higher we climbed the more the snow came down. We went past 3 British bikers at the top who were taking refuge hiding behind a shed from the snow.

 

[AndyT]

Run to the Sun

As the weather in Switzerland was not the best for biking we headed back into Italy and the "South Tyrol". This is another gem of a place and would make an ideal touring base for a few days. We stayed in a village named Latcsh which has a fantatsic resteraunt serving local dishes all very reasonable and loads of good quality accomodation. In the hillsides around Latcsh there were hundreds of walkers and I could see the attraction as it has spectacular views all around as shown below.

This was our last day in the Alps and we made a long haul up through Austria and Germany staying once again in the Mossel Valley (albiet the other side of the river from the train line).

The BMW behaved itself perfectly except the false neutral indication which started. I longed for heated grips in Switzerland but the power of the 850 was more than adequate for the journey even cruising at 90mph back up through Germany.

Star of the Holiday was the GPS (Garmin ColourMap) although I lost all my tracks which is a downer. I had also just purcheased a Baglux bag from the list which was fantastic. I only had a topboz for my water proofs as I don't trust the BMW rack with a GIVI box.

The other star of the holiday was my Roof Boxer helmet which I rode most of the time in the Alps with it in open face mode which was just great going through the villages and in Italy when the weather was in the 30's (centigrade). I was going to sell it before this trip because I didn't like it but glad I percevered.

Well untill next year thats about it unless I'm not working for Princetown or one of the NAtional events. I'm sure Andy Cameron can organise a weekend outing for the Scots lads and myself (a mere White settler up here...!!!) R U listening Andy..!!


PS If Roy Buchan or Jim Gordon are reading and want to borrow the Maps or any gear please let me know. I'm back from offshore on June 12th but can get it to you before that if required.

 

[AndyT]

Re: Re: to Bavaria

I was in the Mosel area a couple of weeks ago, and all the towns and villages there had them as well. I'm not absolutely certain, but I believe it's something to do with May Day. I think they're complete fir/pine trees, with the lower branches and bark stripped off.

Steve - now you mention it I think they were actually the tree trunks and some of them were covered in coats of arms up to 20 of them. I thought they were the sign of a vineyard at first but there were just to many of them.

Andy

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Re: Onward to Switzerland

From Bormio we wanted to take the Stevlio pass but this is still closed and opens June 1st (tomorrow). Our only route was over to Livigno which took us through our first snow storm. From Livigno we headed towards Switzerland along a huge reservoir over the dam at the end and through a single track Toll tunnel with traffic lights on. This was 8 Km long and I thought the lights were broken at first but its not the sort of thing you can head down without being sure. Switzerland was our only rainy day and we headed off to St Moritz which was a huge letdown....no Aston MArtins or blokes in black polo necked shirts jumping off bridges with a box of milk tray under thier arm. Infact just a very boring town so off to Davos for some sight seeing. DAvos is very high up and was very cold and wet so we headed back East towards Austria. The higher we climbed the more the snow came down. We went past 3 British bikers at the top who were taking refuge hiding behind a shed from the snow.

Andy, we had to do the same thing in 2001,from Bormio it's a dead end if the Stelvio's closed,so we went up to Livorgno and up to the Tunnel/reservoir.The Tunnel was scary after riding,in the bright sunshine.
We also got stuffed by a couple of locals on R1100RS's,dressed like Italian bike coppers(but they weren't),who showed us a clean pair of heels.......local knowledge!!!!!
So the Timmeljoch Pass,near Obergurgl was also closed.......looks like a lot of snow.I was there twice last year in June and Sept and it's a great pass when the weather is good.Shame!!

Brilliant pics and brings back a lot of memories of riding the GS,over there in the last couple of years.

The German/Austrian villages seem to celebrate Mayday in big style,although never been there at that time.
I've seen the pine tree trunks decorated,with the coats of arms-maybe local families.Plus they also depict local trades/crafts and jobs like Hunters/Woodcutters/Farmers etc.
As for the churches,they seem all to be styled with the Dome - like the Russian and Serbian Orthodox ones, from further East in Europe,similar to ones that I've seen when in Czechoslovakia,Hungary and Yugoslavia,so I guess they must be closer to the Orthodox Christian religion,than ourselves and obviously most of France/Italy/Spain is closer to Catholic Rome.

Different styles of everything, all over Europe,that's what makes it interesting................go tour.

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Italian Dolomites/Maps

I agree the Dolomites are some of the best looking mountains,I've ever seen.............some are simply breathtaking.
Most bikers seen to agree,last we were talking to Austrian bikers, near Cortina and they said that this was most German/Austrian biker's favourite place,in the whole of the region and they're certainly spoilt for choice !!!!!!!!!!

On the subject of the maps - Shell Oils do a very good little book,called something like the 'Biker Book' and it's free from most UK dealers,selling Shell motorcycle oils.It's written in English and is a mine of information.
However for some briilliant reason(which is ok by me),it contains those very maps from the German/Austrian biker federations,that you describe,detailing all the passes and suggesting circular routes/tours.See if you can find one.
I got mine last year and it's small enough to fit neatly into your tankbag

 

[MikeO]

Andy,

excellent ride report and pix - many thanks!

Mike

 

[Der Kommissar]

outstanding pics shipmate.

 

[Scipio]

Agree with you on the Dolomites... excellent ride, story, and pics.

Ciao