I've Got Issues

[Popell]

With precious little experience (2k) on mine, I have not had the opportunity to tinker with anything other than the spring preload at the rear to accomodate laoded panniers etc but I have to say that the front end inspires a confidence that I searched for for ages on my previous bike!!Knowing the previous owner, mine will be set as it was coming out of the gate, AJ supplied.
It sounds to me like some problem rather than a setting, I would put a pint on you having misaligned/bent fork tubes or less likely , a frozen shock, if the wishbone bearings were seized to such an extent I don't think you would have made it home from the 50 miler with both wheels!!

Please take this as only my opinion (as if you would do otherwise) but from some engineering background

 

[Robin B'stard]

Check your movemnet without splitting the ball joint. If ity smooth then all is well, if it doesn't move then it will those pivots or the sliders stuck in the lowers. How weell do you know the previous owner(s). Is it possible that it has got bent sliders, that could cause some sticktion. If you sdplit teh ball joint and it is stiff, that might be cos something is out of alignment. If you plit the ball joint and it is all smoothly moving, that could be becuase something is now realigned - no conclusion could be drawn. IIWY I would take it slowly and check each item as you go. If the forks legs are stuck you might find the front shock is a sod to get out if it is stuck in a compressed state, so keep you fingers clear of a suddenly uncompressing shock.

Some members have found the bottom mounting bolt a PIA to remove, others not. I poured boiling over the surrouding telever to warm the metals and loosen any therad lock - no problems for me.

Let us know how you get on ...

Once I've got the shock off I should be able to tell if there's a problem with the sliders. The bottom torx bolt is best heated with a paint stripper gun so I understand from other posts on this forum. It melts BMW's thread lock. If every thing moves smoothly then that points back to the shock. Probably look at it next week as I'm taking kids camping this weekend. Wet weather n stroppy teenagers; oh joy of joys. I'd rather be fettling.

 

[Magwych]

Hot air gun, boiling water. Both do the same thing, but only one can also be used to make a brew

Good luck

 

[skywalker]

Some of the first 1200's did have an issue with the front shock being too hard. May be worth looking at an alternative

 

[Robin B'stard]

Some of the first 1200's did have an issue with the front shock being too hard. May be worth looking at an alternative

THE TRUTH SHALL SET ME FREE.

I've heard that they changed the shock in Sept 05 to a Showa. No idea if that was cost or design, maybe a combination of both. (Showa is owned by Honda and probably turn out 10x the number of shocks that WP make.)
Called into my local bike showroom today, Thunder road, they had a similar GS there. I had a look at the shock and it's different to mine. Must have been a Showa (no WP marks on it and the preload was set 2 from the top) which suggests a softer spring. I may have a look on fleabay before buying something more exotic aka(expensive).
Thanks for confirming that.

 

[Pukmeister]

My early 2004 GS had a ridiculously hard spring rate on its WP front shock just like yours hence my changing to Wilbers. I'd put money on it that your bikes front shock is the same, and is probably why BWM went over to Showa units.

FWIW the front shock is meant to be progressively sprung and damped, but IMO the whole thing is just too stiff and causes chatter/robs feedback.

Obviously any aftermarket quality shock absorber is infinitely more adjustable due to threaded spring preload collars, damping adjusters that actually work and replaceable springs for different rates of action. Probably cheaper than the stock item too.

 

[Robin B'stard]

My early 2004 GS had a ridiculously hard spring rate on its WP front shock just like yours hence my changing to Wilbers. I'd put money on it that your bikes front shock is the same, and is probably why BWM went over to Showa units.

FWIW the front shock is meant to be progressively sprung and damped, but IMO the whole thing is just too stiff and causes chatter/robs feedback.

Obviously any aftermarket quality shock absorber is infinitely more adjustable due to threaded spring preload collars, damping adjusters that actually work and replaceable springs for different rates of action. Probably cheaper than the stock item too.

'Progressivley sprung', thats a good one, does it mean hard and becomes immovable, these marketing men will say anything. I'll strip it apart this coming weekend and report my findings. Wish I had a spare shock to compare it with.

After market looks like the direction I'm heading in. Thanks 4 that.

Just got a bit of a shock when I typed White Power into google.

 

[Deleted account 211025001]

My 05 had WP shocks and I found that one click softer than standard on the front worked for me when combined with full preload and 1/4 turn more damping on the rear - I weigh 85kg. The amount of rear preload makes a very real difference to rate of turn and feel from the fron IME so I'm surprised when you say it made no difference

Having changed to Wilbers, they are better, but I have to say I was more than happy with the standard shocks.

The only other things I can think of are tyre pressures - the WBM handbook pressures are too low, 36/42psi seems to work on all tyres I've used.

Have you ridden other telelevered bikes - maybe it's a case of getting used to the vague feeling they give compared to tele's

Andres

 

[Robin B'stard]

My 05 had WP shocks and I found that one click softer than standard on the front worked for me when combined with full preload and 1/4 turn more damping on the rear - I weigh 85kg. The amount of rear preload makes a very real difference to rate of turn and feel from the fron IME so I'm surprised when you say it made no difference

Having changed to Wilbers, they are better, but I have to say I was more than happy with the standard shocks.

The only other things I can think of are tyre pressures - the WBM handbook pressures are too low, 36/42psi seems to work on all tyres I've used.

Have you ridden other telelevered bikes - maybe it's a case of getting used to the vague feeling they give compared to tele's

Hi, I think you misunderstand me. I wasn't refering to the front being vague and I don't think I have at anytime in this thread, I was refering to the the harsh feel of the front and this did not change buy altering the settings of the rear. The bike turns in differently, yes as I would expect it too and I said I've found a better setting for the bike overall but the front is still the same. And yes I've ridden other telelever bikes and they are nothing like this. But thanks

 

[Deleted account 211025001]

Hi, I think you misunderstand me. I wasn't refering to the front being vague ........................

You could well be right, think I did

Hope you get it sorted

Andres

 

[GSmonkey]

1) Stick a new front tourance on. I bet the blocks are cupped.
2) Set front preload to zero.
3) 40psi rear, 35psi front when solo
4) Rear 10click back from full hard

Doing this worked for me on a GSA (12st rider) with front washing out over bumps.

Good luck.

 

[Robin B'stard]

Check your movemnet without splitting the ball joint. If ity smooth then all is well, if it doesn't move then it will those pivots or the sliders stuck in the lowers. How weell do you know the previous owner(s). Is it possible that it has got bent sliders, that could cause some sticktion. If you sdplit teh ball joint and it is stiff, that might be cos something is out of alignment. If you plit the ball joint and it is all smoothly moving, that could be becuase something is now realigned - no conclusion could be drawn. IIWY I would take it slowly and check each item as you go. If the forks legs are stuck you might find the front shock is a sod to get out if it is stuck in a compressed state, so keep you fingers clear of a suddenly uncompressing shock.

Some members have found the bottom mounting bolt a PIA to remove, others not. I poured boiling over the surrouding telever to warm the metals and loosen any therad lock - no problems for me.

Let us know how you get on ...

Hi, Had a look at the problem today. The bottom shock bolt came out easy with the help of the paint stripper gun. The top was more of a problem as the shaft of the shock was turning . I can see why there's a hex socket in the top of the shaft.

Left the ball joint in place but took the shock out. The movement of the forks/sliders and telelever was smooth throughout the full range of movement.

Put a new front tyre on yesterday (Tourance same as what was on there) just to eliminate that as a possible source of the problem. The steering feels lighter and much better overall handling. But experience tells me that would happen with any bike. I've never put a new front tyre on any bike and the handling got worse.

So my attention now comes back to the shock. I couldn't get any movement out of it at all. What a wimp I am. Think I need a different shock even if its the stock showa from the later model bikes. They seem to be softer either through the spring rate or the damping.

That should give me some idea before I get something more exotic.

 

[Robin B'stard]

Problem solved

Just to give you all an update on my progress, I've changed the shock after work yesterday.

I purchased the Showa unit off fleabay from a 2007 bike as a direct replacement for the WP unit.

The front feels better already. Took the bike out last night for a test ride and immediately noticed the difference. The front feels firm but compliant and the harsh feel and chatter have gone (thankfully).

There are only six preload setting on the Showa whereas the WP unit had nine. I've got the Showa set in 2 (thats one up from bottom for the technically minded). I'll play around with the setting to get an optimum set up for my weight.

As for a conclusion to this thread and having read every thread/post on suspension I could find, I would say the majority of suspension problems relate to Showa shocks, front and rear, being to soft to take larger rider weight, the misses and all the laundry for a two week cruise. For me it has been the opposite problem but only with the front. The WP rear shock is fine.

So if you're a lighter rider and have a WP front shock which feels hard even on the lowest preload setting and doesn't give you confidence in the front end with serious chatter then try the Showa unit first before spending stupid money on something more exotic. It's worked from me.

If you are on the heavier side and like to take the kitchen sink on tour, the WP unit may be worth a try........

Thanks to all those who contributed with helpful ideas.

I could get to love this bike in the comimg months, which is a far cry from my earlier thoughts of getting rid of it and getting Tangoed.