JohnGS1100 Tuning Chip

Hi Lee. I suggest a stage 3 or 4 chip for US petrol. Works perfect by US petrols (89-91 ron). Gives the same torque at very low and middle rpms as a stgae 5-6 chip and little more power at high than stock chip. I can send you plus a stage 6 chip just for trying.
Also you can use the stage 6 chip by another CCP settings at fusebox (by a jumper at pins 30,87,86), so there is no problem about using low octate petrols.
 
Hi Lee. I suggest a stage 3 or 4 chip for US petrol. Works perfect by US petrols (89-91 ron). Gives the same torque at very low and middle rpms as a stgae 5-6 chip and little more power at high than stock chip. I can send you plus a stage 6 chip just for trying.
Also you can use the stage 6 chip by another CCP settings at fusebox (by a jumper at pins 30,87,86), so there is no problem about using low octate petrols.

Great. So what's the best way to purchase a chip? Ebay? Your own website?
 
Hi Lee. I was send to you, two chip, stage 4 and 6, will arrive soon.

The stage 6 is more powerfully but needed 94 ron petrols using and CCP stock yellow 30,87.
Also try the stage 6 by CCP 30,87,86, maybe this setup burn low octane petrols.

If you want use always low octane petrols you should fit the stage 4 chip, works by 91+ octane petrols.

Let us know when you will try.
Thanks :)
 
Fitted my chip last night and I know it's been said before but was a transformation. Why don't BMW send them out of the factory like that ?

Thanks John, excellent service :thumb2
 
Hi Lee. I was send to you, two chip, stage 4 and 6, will arrive soon.

The stage 6 is more powerfully but needed 94 ron petrols using and CCP stock yellow 30,87.
Also try the stage 6 by CCP 30,87,86, maybe this setup burn low octane petrols.

If you want use always low octane petrols you should fit the stage 4 chip, works by 91+ octane petrols.

Let us know when you will try.
Thanks :)

Received them this afternoon. Thanks. I fitted the stage 4 chip. Bike started right away. Idle raised by about 100rpm. Will do around 500km on Saturday. Will report.

Please John, tell me what the Stage 6 does. Same fuel (US 91) as the stage 4, but more top end?

Lee
 
Hi Lee. I was send to you, two chip, stage 4 and 6, will arrive soon.

The stage 6 is more powerfully but needed 94 ron petrols using and CCP stock yellow 30,87.
Also try the stage 6 by CCP 30,87,86, maybe this setup burn low octane petrols.

If you want use always low octane petrols you should fit the stage 4 chip, works by 91+ octane petrols.

Let us know when you will try.
Thanks :)

Received them this afternoon. Thanks. I fitted the stage 4 chip. Bike started right away. Idle raised by about 100rpm. Will do around 500km on Saturday. Will report.

Please John, tell me what the Stage 6 does. Same fuel (US 91 - high octane here) as the stage 4, but more top end?

BTW Does the following quote apply to the Stage 4 chip for my de-cat 1150GS twin spark?

Thank you Ralph.

Try CCP 30 87 87a, gives a little more richer fuell :thumb

The chip for R1150 has 3 sets of maps.

1. Standard fuel CCP 30 87
2. Little more rich fuel CCP 30 87 87a, this recommend for K/N air filter and de-cat exhaust, or larger tubes of RT-RS.
3. And without CCP, gives Little lean (but better AFR than stock maps), for economy.

Finally i have to tell, that the motronic make adapts day per day and after a week make the perfect maps for hardware setup bike ..

r5ZKo5G.jpg
 
Hi Lee. The stage 6 chip has little more faster timing advance than stage 4. You should try by low octane petrol and if you not hear pings (at 3.500-4.500 revs) then it is ok..
At photo i can not see, it is a jumper at 30 - 87 pins ?

The CCP 30,87,87a is recommended by the large intake air tubes from RT-RS. By the narrow stock GS tubes it is recommended the yellow CCP (30,87). It is better for economy consumption. The K/N air filter does not so matter, the chip gives the more richer AFR so works fine by the stantard CCP setting.
 
I did 500 km this weekend with stage 4 chip. My bike was running great before I fitted the chip. No real problem to solve (well, I did have a problem with a faulty AFXied module though, but it was removed).

With the stage 4 chip installed, I first bridged pins 30-87. It was nice. Improvement is felt around 3,5K and up. I felt a kick that wasn't there before. The engine sounded/felt different, most likely caused by the increased timing advance. After 50km, I bridged pins 30/87/87a and left fo the day... The engine felt not as smooth, and it felt akward too. I think it was running too rich. At 450km, I reset the DME and returned to pins 30/87. It felt better. I also checked for pinging by running at low RPM and twisting the throttle. No pinging to be heard. Did many tests at low RPM in 5th gear. Still no pinging. BTW This bike, even on stock chip was nnever been pinging. Except for the time when the afxied was faulty. It seems it was leaning the mixture. A lot.

My tank now only has 5 or 6 liters of fuel left, so I will remove it to install a stage 6 chip.

BTW what is stage 5?

Lee
 
The stage 5 is like the 6, expect the air temp maps (has the stock air temp map).
Also has little slowly timing advance.
The new air temp maps gives richer fuel when the engine is hot (5+ lines)..
So sound smoothly and runs much better without noise. That give also better consumption.
 
The stage 5 is like the 6, expect the air temp maps (has the stock air temp map).
Also has little slowly timing advance.
The new air temp maps gives richer fuel when the engine is hot (5+ lines)..
So sound smoothly and runs much better without noise. That give also better consumption.

Hi John, If you got your LC-1 installed you would see that the air temp map has no effect once the bike is warm and in closed loop. Do you need help getting it installed?
 
Hi Roger. By higher values (as stock) air temp maps, the AFR is little (very little) more richer than stock, make the engine smoother at all temps. The AFR is 14,2-14,4:1 at close loop. At open loop (by 5+ temp lines) the AFR is about 13,2-12,5:1 (5.700-8.000 rpms). There are effects by air temp maps..
I do not still have LC-1, i see these results by a standalone wideband when driving a R1100 and R1150GS.
 
Hi John, If you got your LC-1 installed you would see that the air temp map has no effect once the bike is warm and in closed loop. Do you need help getting it installed?

Wouln't it be curious if the air temp parameter was disgarded once the engine is warmed up? It goes against all I have learned on previous Motronics for the past 30 years. An engine requires a different fuel mixture wether it runs thru 0°C or 30°C weather. Also, closed loop is only used at steady throttle, correct? As long as you accelerate or go WOT (wide open throttle), the closed loop is bypassed as you need a much richer mixture, right?

BTW i love my stage 4 on pins 30-87
I will soon swap the chip to a stage 6 to see what happens beyond 5K rpm ;-)

Lee
 
Hi

I'm waiting in anticipation for the arrival of one of John's magical chips for my 850GS so spent most of yesterday trawling through the 40 odd pages of this thread and have a couple of questions:

1) Do I have to remove the tank completely or can you get at the ECU by just moving it back/propping up?

2) A number of people have reported higher tickover after fitting but when I 'Harmonized' mine last week the Big Screws were wound nearly all the way in (1/4 turn out at max) so there is little room to lower if I need to. I also note that John recommends that the screws are wound out 2 3/4 turns which would make my tickover about 3k rpm by my calculation. Any ideas what might be wrong before I make it worse??

It's a yr 2000 model with Lambda sensor, full Remus and std air filter if that helps. And I adjusted the valves etc and balanced with a Harmonizer which has made it silky smooth, almost.
 
Wouln't it be curious if the air temp parameter was disgarded once the engine is warmed up? It goes against all I have learned on previous Motronics for the past 30 years. An engine requires a different fuel mixture wether it runs thru 0°C or 30°C weather. Also, closed loop is only used at steady throttle, correct? As long as you accelerate or go WOT (wide open throttle), the closed loop is bypassed as you need a much richer mixture, right?

BTW i love my stage 4 on pins 30-87
I will soon swap the chip to a stage 6 to see what happens beyond 5K rpm ;-)

Lee

Lee, The whole point of Closed Loop fueling is that you want the same Lambda (or AFR if you prefer that term) no matter what the IAT or Barometric pressure or fuel stoichiometry (ethanol or not). The reason that you want the same AFR/Lambda all the time is that the catalytic converter only functions efficiently (or at all) very near Lambda = 1. If hotter air or lower barometric pressure was causing the AFR to change, the catalytic converter would no longer remove pollutants. So the whole idea of the sensors is to help the CC stay running effectively by keeping AFR at lambda = 1 as much time as possible.

Check out the explanation below to some recent questions I got.

Q: I measured 53degC in the airbox when idling in traffic, our bikes are designed to run lean, surely such a high AIT makes the bike run even leaner, just when a richer mixture would be safer.
A: Measuring the higher temperature won't make the mixture leaner, the idea is that if the actual air entering the combustion chamber is hotter. Let me digress for a moment.

The purpose of all sensors (TPS, RPM, Barometric & Air Temp) is to estimate how much oxygen will be in the combustion chamber at the moment of ignition. TPS & RPM are the biggest factors but higher barometric pressure or altitude result in more O2 getting packed in. Likewise, lower temperature air is denser and results in more O2 being packed into the combustion chamber. Therefore, Baro & Air are refinements to the TPS/RPM fuel table estimate. (The amount of fuel squirted is considered constant for a given time, except that the injectors turn on more slowly at lower battery voltage, so there is a correction for that.

So when the air in the airbox is 53C, it is less dense and needs less fuel for the same AFR.

Now if you have the sensor in fresh air, the ECU will overestimate the amount of fuel needed and over the next several seconds, the short term trims calculated using the O2 sensor will spot this "error" and reduce the fueling. Although the mixture gets "fixed", the short term trim is now biased to reduce fuel, possibly leading to a lean condition when you get rolling, until the short term trim fixes itself up.​

Q: Most vehicles have the AIT arranged as close to the front of the vehicle as possible so as not be affected by engine heat.

A: This may be true when one sensor reports ambient air temperature to the display and air temperature to the ECU. However, the more accurately the IAT sensor estimates charge-air-temperature, the more accurately the short term trims are calculated.​

Q: There is a pressure sensor built into the ecu, hot AIT combined with the atmospheric pressure would be sending conflicting signal to the ecu.

A: As I mentioned above, both pressure and temperature affect the amount of O2 entering the combustion chamber and both are helpful to accurately estimating the amount of fuel required for a given AFR target.​

Q: Any AIT "spoofs" get adapted out because of the O2 sensor chasing that 14.7 AFR - now that we understand that the latest firmware goes to Closed Loop at 42degC, "spoofing" the O2 becomes even more important - until someone learns how to re-map the ecu.

A: An interesting point, even if you remap the ECU, the Closed Loop software will still bring the fueling to the reference point of the O2 (Lambda sensor).​
 
Hi Roger. By higher values (as stock) air temp maps, the AFR is little (very little) more richer than stock, make the engine smoother at all temps. The AFR is 14,2-14,4:1 at close loop. At open loop (by 5+ temp lines) the AFR is about 13,2-12,5:1 (5.700-8.000 rpms). There are effects by air temp maps..
I do not still have LC-1, i see these results by a standalone wideband when driving a R1100 and R1150GS.

John, I really hope you get an LC-2, they are not very expensive and if you installed one in your R1100 or R1150, you would immediately know what your chips are actually doing. You could make a log of the AFR while riding, showing acceleration enrichment and cruising AFR. I could compare that log to stock. Then if you wanted, I would take a chip and confirm your results.

In truth, I think you will be very surprised by what you find when you take such a log on a Closed Loop bike.
 
To Nige

I recognize your situation with a high idle, although the brass screws are almost fully seated. Had the same situation due to "un-seated" pulley at idle. The engine took air through the throttle and not via the brass screw. (I managed to "harmonize" the engine but the brass screws were not in play.)
Suggest that you check that the trottle cables allow the pulley all the way to the stop screw. Once it it is seated (at idle) you can open - and use - the brass screws as they were intended to.
John's chip is worth waiting for!
 


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