JohnGS1100 Tuning Chip

Report:

R1100gs with Lambda, no CAT, Remus and K&N filter - with John's chip.

Using 95 RON fuel
Very small amount of surging, less than before.
Quicker through the gearbox and quicker to pick up for overtakes etc.
Don't have to drop down 2 gears for a 90 degree corner (Lincolnshire - there's lots of them) or roundabouts.
Engine purrs better when cruising at higher speeds.
55 MPG with a mixture of roads and speeds.
Tickover between 1100 - 13000 RPM, a bit higher than I'd like but I will get this reset in the near future and see the result.

All in all as good, if not better, than when the bike was run in with 30,000 miles on the clock - it's now got over 136,000 miles on the clock - only with better fuel consumption, the best I ever got was 50 MPG when pottering.

Using shell V-Power
A lot of surging at low speeds, way more than before.
Tickover around 15/16000 RPM
Goes like a rocket, as quick as a 1200 that I rode but with the planted feeling you get with the 1100
51 MPG

I must say I was very surprised with the difference made by changing the fuels - I have a 100 mile daily round trip commute so it is easy to do a comparison.

I shall stick with the 95 RON fuel for the smoothness and fuel economy, there may be a time when I go out with some mates on their VFRs, Multistradas, KTMs ect when I shall use the Power but in general I find my urge to ride fast and race sports bikes is dying.

I am extremely pleased with my chip - a complete bargain, well done John and many thanks. :thumby::thumby::thumby:
 
hi am after one but bit confused got a 1997 with remus fitted and kn air filter looking at earlier post you are talking about different coloured fuses ect. or is it just plug and play.:beerjug:
 
If you have a Lambda you need a red CCP if not a beige CCP - I made my own but was ordering some stuff from motorworks and they're £2.50 so I added one on.
 
Report:

R1100gs with Lambda, no CAT, Remus and K&N filter - with John's chip.

Using 95 RON fuel
Very small amount of surging, less than before.
Quicker through the gearbox and quicker to pick up for overtakes etc.
Don't have to drop down 2 gears for a 90 degree corner (Lincolnshire - there's lots of them) or roundabouts.
Engine purrs better when cruising at higher speeds.
55 MPG with a mixture of roads and speeds.
Tickover between 1100 - 13000 RPM, a bit higher than I'd like but I will get this reset in the near future and see the result.

All in all as good, if not better, than when the bike was run in with 30,000 miles on the clock - it's now got over 136,000 miles on the clock - only with better fuel consumption, the best I ever got was 50 MPG when pottering.

Using shell V-Power
A lot of surging at low speeds, way more than before.
Tickover around 15/16000 RPM

Goes like a rocket, as quick as a 1200 that I rode but with the planted feeling you get with the 1100
51 MPG

I must say I was very surprised with the difference made by changing the fuels - I have a 100 mile daily round trip commute so it is easy to do a comparison.

I shall stick with the 95 RON fuel for the smoothness and fuel economy, there may be a time when I go out with some mates on their VFRs, Multistradas, KTMs ect when I shall use the Power but in general I find my urge to ride fast and race sports bikes is dying.

I am extremely pleased with my chip - a complete bargain, well done John and many thanks. :thumby::thumby::thumby:

Why do you think your bike surges on high octane fuel?
 
Hi Roger.

I've no idea - As I said "I was very surprised".

But I'm not a mechanic, engineer or petrochemical scientist. I can just about service my bike, anything bigger than routine I take it somewhere.

When I'm on the continent I usually fill up at supermarkets, which is often reported as being of inferior quality to petrol stations - I'm in France for a weekend in June so will see what happens.
In the meantime I'll get someone to do the 'Zero Zero' thing as reported on here and report back.
 
Be careful with the zero=zero thing you really want it set to zero degrees throttle equals 250 mV. Z=Z was a mistake and makes the bike too lean at zero throttle.
 
Roger what is the correct figure for an 850R?

I'm not a fan of adjusting the TPS but if you need to because someone else did it wrong then you would use zero=250 mV too.

I've moved the answer to your AFR question to the AF-XIED thread since this thread is for John's chip activities.
 
Am using one of John's chips but the bike was running too rich having one of my indicators getting full of soot! Also cant open up the bbs more as idling speed will go up to 1500
 
I bought one of John’s early chips for my bike, primarily in an attempt to cure the god-awful stuttering/surging that I was getting between 2-3k. Duly fitted it and the chip was a great overall improvement on the bike’s performance: smoother and with much more acceleration.

I was really pleased with the changes but there was one slight disappointment, the original problem was reduced, but it was still there and now at around 3k. I spoke to John about this late last year and he was very helpful as well as promising to sort it out. At that time I asked him to put any further effort on hold as I was taking the bike off the road for a good refurb. Fast forward to a week ago when I contacted John again to tell him I was back on the road with the bike and he sent off a new chip which arrived yesterday.

I fitted it today and went out for a test ride. The bike performs just as well as on the original chip but the problem has now been completely cured: smooth performance throughout the rev range, no hesitancy to be found and glorious acceleration when the throttle’s opened up. :D

To say I’m chuffed would be an understatement, the bike has become everything I want and moreover for the first time it is now a total pleasure to ride it. :thumb2

A heartfelt and mahoosive thank you to John from me!

R
 
I just make richer the fuel at 2.000-3.000 rpm and i make little richer the lambda maps at close loop.

The main problem to R850 by the stock chip is that the AFR is richer at 4.000-5.000 and lean, very lean at others revs. Also the timing advance is very slowly at all revs. So the torque at very low rpms is poor and there is no power at high.
Now you have full power from 1.600 until red line (8.100) by better consumption (if you can drive easy your bike now :D ).

You have the perfect maps in to the chip exactly for your bike. Hope to enjoy :thumb2
Many thanks Ralphy.
 
Hi John,

Chip arrived this morning, thanks.

Assume it is where the X is in the photo - couldn't find the instructions on what to pull apart in the thread (photo lifted from another EU GS forum)...

6787d1207218433-steuergeraet-1100gs-motronic_ma_2.2.jpg
 
Hi John,

Chip arrived this morning, thanks.

Assume it is where the X is in the photo - couldn't find the instructions on what to pull apart in the thread (photo lifted from another EU GS forum)...

6787d1207218433-steuergeraet-1100gs-motronic_ma_2.2.jpg

That's the bugger, nice and gentle does it and make SURE the little notch is in the right position and ALL the pins line up before pressing it home. Good luck. :rob
 
I have been running with on John's chips for a few weeks now, so here is some more non-scientific and purely subjective feedback.

Once fitted :
- there was a clear and significant improvement in the low speed constant throttle running of my bike. (100% confidence)
- there was an impression of a little more mid range power (75% confidence)

several weeks later:
- the low speed running is not as good as the day I fitted the chip (90% confidence)
- its still better than before I fitted the chip (70% confidence)

I have a single spark 1150.
 
Is that the yellow block thing that is in a cardboard box in garage somewhere (previous mod recommended here). should I plug it back in ?
 
Yes !!

If you do not have the yellow CCP at fuse box, do not worry about, just fit a wire or jumper as the photo :

10686782_388714934622142_5812978140523161576_n.jpg

After take out for 3-4 min the fuse 5, here is a photo from your fuse box :

10404195_360475527446083_5957758950289264509_n.jpg


And drive your bike for 5-10 miles (needed to load all new maps) and then tell us please what about improvement and consumption :)
 


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