Jump Starting
- Thread starter B4ndit
- Start date
I use the one on top of the battery
Bendy toy
Registered user
I don't get the problem - battery contacts are accessible. Clip negative to bare metal on engine and if necessary hold the positive onto battery.
Clamp a heavy duty battery lead onto the battery's terminal post. Dangle wherever you see fit.... Don't forget that the other end will be permanently live!
Ask yourself, "What would Fred do?"
You could easily make a suitable socket for jump starting. I made one for my 1200 GSA, as far as I know it is still on the bike and still works. Only used it once, to jump start a Blackbird in Germany.
Ask yourself, "What would Fred do?"
You could easily make a suitable socket for jump starting. I made one for my 1200 GSA, as far as I know it is still on the bike and still works. Only used it once, to jump start a Blackbird in Germany.
Poshtosser
Registered user
I jump started my Fireblade yesterday using my car battery and all was well. Last night at dinner I mentioned it to a mate who pulled a face and said you should never use a car battery as it can fry the electrics. I thought this was bollocks but he was quite sure that it is not the compatible Volts that matter. I'm not an electrician but I thought it was the voltage that mattered. What's the story?
iftikartaxis
Registered user
Jump start
If you used the battery purely as a slave battery
I don't think would be a problem
It's when you connect the car and it's running that's when problems occur
If you used the battery purely as a slave battery
I don't think would be a problem
It's when you connect the car and it's running that's when problems occur
flatdog
Registered user
jump start off car battery is fine, car mustn't be running.
slow typer me..
slow typer me..
King Key
Registered user
As you say, your mate is talking bollocks. Provided the battery used for jumping is also 12v it wouldn't matter if it was the size of a house.
Bendy toy
Registered user
The car battery cant hurt the bike battery. But running the donor engine could conceivably stress the donor generator as for a few seconds the power demand is way beyond what it's built to deliver. Its also pointless.
300 Amps at 12 volts is 3600 watts - adding another few watts from the donor generator is not going to make much difference. At tick-over its generating way below its rated output.
300 Amps at 12 volts is 3600 watts - adding another few watts from the donor generator is not going to make much difference. At tick-over its generating way below its rated output.
Bendy toy
Registered user
In electrical terms a starter motor is very dirty kicking voltage and current spikes back into the electrical system. Normally, all that noise is no problem because sensitive stuff is switched out during engine start. But if the donor car or bike is running there is no protection from that spike. So dont run the donor engine and all will be well.
buncobooth
Registered user
I bought some jump leads for my bike and reading the bike manual, have some questions:
1) It talks about the "donor vehicle" requiring a 12v battery, but does not say if this can be a car or another bike (could it be another bike ?)
2) It specifically says "Run the engine of the donor vehicle during jump-starting"
3) It specifically says you should connect terminal to terminal (both + and -) on both batteries, and not to connect the negative to the frame/metal part of the engine.
Is any of this correct seeing as it states this in the rider's manual ?
1) It talks about the "donor vehicle" requiring a 12v battery, but does not say if this can be a car or another bike (could it be another bike ?)
2) It specifically says "Run the engine of the donor vehicle during jump-starting"
3) It specifically says you should connect terminal to terminal (both + and -) on both batteries, and not to connect the negative to the frame/metal part of the engine.
Is any of this correct seeing as it states this in the rider's manual ?
1/ 12 volts is 12 volts wheather bike car or battle ship
2/ in the old days before electronics and cars had dinamoes with relatively low outputs running the doner vichecle was a good idea. As the eariler posts have said for various reasons it is better not to run the doner engine.
3/ that advice is valid ie - to - and + to+ and it is much easier to convey the message of correct connection ( how can one get it wrong). I have seen the result of getting it arseways and it's not nice. Upswing a metal part of the engine is also a good way to connect the- also it helps to keep sparks away from the highly explosive battery. JJH
2/ in the old days before electronics and cars had dinamoes with relatively low outputs running the doner vichecle was a good idea. As the eariler posts have said for various reasons it is better not to run the doner engine.
3/ that advice is valid ie - to - and + to+ and it is much easier to convey the message of correct connection ( how can one get it wrong). I have seen the result of getting it arseways and it's not nice. Upswing a metal part of the engine is also a good way to connect the- also it helps to keep sparks away from the highly explosive battery. JJH
Bendy toy
Registered user
When a car or bike starter is turning, all but the engine electrical circuits are disconnected, though on some the headlights might remain on.
This protects anything that wont cope with the noise and power spikes caused by the starter motor. Running the donor car is a sure way to have all that sensitive stuff live and unprotected while the rescue vehicle starter is doing its dirty stuff.
The additional power from the generator will help but really very little - 10% more than the battery alone at best.
As said earlier battery can deliver 3,500 watts of start power. Unless the donor engine is spinning, the generator will be lucky to make 350 watts . Its not worth the risk for the small benefit.
If the dead vehicle still wont turn on jump leads, disconnect its the dead battery negative contact. If its acting like a short circuit this will allow the broken down vehicle to start. You then know its totally shot and has to be replaced.
This protects anything that wont cope with the noise and power spikes caused by the starter motor. Running the donor car is a sure way to have all that sensitive stuff live and unprotected while the rescue vehicle starter is doing its dirty stuff.
The additional power from the generator will help but really very little - 10% more than the battery alone at best.
As said earlier battery can deliver 3,500 watts of start power. Unless the donor engine is spinning, the generator will be lucky to make 350 watts . Its not worth the risk for the small benefit.
If the dead vehicle still wont turn on jump leads, disconnect its the dead battery negative contact. If its acting like a short circuit this will allow the broken down vehicle to start. You then know its totally shot and has to be replaced.
What a load of tosh
And do not start a bike with the battery disconnected this will actually damage the electrics.
And do not start a bike with the battery disconnected this will actually damage the electrics.
Another I like about my tls, the starter motor is easily accessible at the front of the engine, all I needed to do when the battery packed up was connect the jump leads direct to the frame and positive on the starter motor, couldn't be easier, on some bikes you can't even work out where they've hidden the starter motor,
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