david a hall
Registered user
This thread is worth my £12
K1100R
- Thread starter MikeP
- Start date
megamax
Registered user
Great thread. Check it every day....
Mike, what do you use for cleaning the metal parts of rust etc, besides hard graft...everything comes up looking great.....
It's starting to all come together........
Mike, what do you use for cleaning the metal parts of rust etc, besides hard graft...everything comes up looking great.....
It's starting to all come together........
bmdavis
Registered user
Inspiring with plenty of great photos to help me. Thanks for sharing.
If you recall, I had some trouble getting the ignition trigger assembly off because there was a bit of corrosion under the cover. So I had to get rid of the rust before I could reassemble it.
Then all the front cover screw threads got a clean:
Pressed in a new seal on the timing chain cover:
Then made certain that the mating surfaces of the timing chain and water pump covers were good and clean - before:
After:
Then, remembering to pass the temperature sender and gauge wires through the timing chain cover (I'll admit to forgetting to do so once and spent ages trying to feed them through with the cover in place), the mating surfaces were given a squirt of Thee Bond clear sealer and all the cover retaining screw threads had a dob of Ali-Slip anti-seize as the new screws are all stainless:
With the cover re-fitted it was time to un-bag the ignition trigger parts:
The locating dowel means that the plate can only go on in one position but it's possible to put it in back-to-front hence the Sharpie reminder:
The hall sensor can then go back. The spacer washers that have a slice out of them need to be aligned, it can be fiddly:
A new cork gasket under the HES cover completes the job:
I made the mistake once of trying to use the minimum amount of sealer on the front covers. The result was an oil weep that could only be fixed by removing the covers and doing it all again. Now I pipe on a goodly amount and prefer to see the excess extruded as it confirms that the sealer has done its job. The excess is easily trimmed off after twenty-four hours.
I've still got some work to do on the crank and cam covers. Instead of masking the bare aluminium 'highlights', this time I polished them to get a good finish then painted over them. Now that they're fully cured, I used the back of a knife drawn over it to remove the paint:
Then all it needs is a light rub with a fine sand block:
It's less work than masking but it does need care not to mark the paint on the cover.
I didn't fancy replacing all of the cover screws which were a bit scruffy:
First job was to separate the rubbers, clean them and then give them a healthy dose of the rubber 'food'. Once done I put them on a radiator for a few days to help the Gummi Pflege be absorbed.
Then I wire brushed the screws to remove the rust and degreased them ready for a coat of enamel, heat resistant ali paint:
Then the rubbers slipped nicely back on:
That'll do for now.
Then all the front cover screw threads got a clean:
Pressed in a new seal on the timing chain cover:
Then made certain that the mating surfaces of the timing chain and water pump covers were good and clean - before:
After:
Then, remembering to pass the temperature sender and gauge wires through the timing chain cover (I'll admit to forgetting to do so once and spent ages trying to feed them through with the cover in place), the mating surfaces were given a squirt of Thee Bond clear sealer and all the cover retaining screw threads had a dob of Ali-Slip anti-seize as the new screws are all stainless:
With the cover re-fitted it was time to un-bag the ignition trigger parts:
The locating dowel means that the plate can only go on in one position but it's possible to put it in back-to-front hence the Sharpie reminder:
The hall sensor can then go back. The spacer washers that have a slice out of them need to be aligned, it can be fiddly:
A new cork gasket under the HES cover completes the job:
I made the mistake once of trying to use the minimum amount of sealer on the front covers. The result was an oil weep that could only be fixed by removing the covers and doing it all again. Now I pipe on a goodly amount and prefer to see the excess extruded as it confirms that the sealer has done its job. The excess is easily trimmed off after twenty-four hours.
I've still got some work to do on the crank and cam covers. Instead of masking the bare aluminium 'highlights', this time I polished them to get a good finish then painted over them. Now that they're fully cured, I used the back of a knife drawn over it to remove the paint:
Then all it needs is a light rub with a fine sand block:
It's less work than masking but it does need care not to mark the paint on the cover.
I didn't fancy replacing all of the cover screws which were a bit scruffy:
First job was to separate the rubbers, clean them and then give them a healthy dose of the rubber 'food'. Once done I put them on a radiator for a few days to help the Gummi Pflege be absorbed.
Then I wire brushed the screws to remove the rust and degreased them ready for a coat of enamel, heat resistant ali paint:
Then the rubbers slipped nicely back on:
That'll do for now.
Looking superb Mike..... I can't wait to see it up and running 
Running?Looking superb Mike..... I can't wait to see it up and running
Bloody hell Keith, I don't know if it will work when it's finished.
Excellent thread,loving your work,following your build certainly motivates a lard arse like myself to get into the garage and start working on my old pig.Excuse me for asking,but when you apply your sealant, i take it,you just apply it to the leading edge of the cases so the excesses you see on the outside is,nt repeated on the inside,only sometimes over use of sealant can wreck an otherwise well put together engine.
Great read Mike thanks for taking the time to post it all.
Towards the outer edge certainly but the stuff doesn't come adrift inside if it does squeeze out in there. I used to worry that it might do as you say but when you take apart one that hasn't been disturbed since BMW put it together you'll find excess of the original sealer still in place. What's more, it's a bugger to remove.
Just spent a very snowy sunday morning here in Val d Isere catching up with this thread, it doesn't get much better than this.
Mike, whilst I am sure that writing this up must be a real chore, well it would be for me, I am equally sure that you are writing yourself a place in UKGSer History and deservedly so, Thank you,
Mike, whilst I am sure that writing this up must be a real chore, well it would be for me, I am equally sure that you are writing yourself a place in UKGSer History and deservedly so, Thank you,
GBDamo
Registered user
.........taps fingers impatiently..........
Is it nearly done yet??
Spectacular work but ffs get a wiggle on....
Is it nearly done yet??
Spectacular work but ffs get a wiggle on....
good work, mike
Several times in the past few days I've been planning to get on with things but today is the first time since my Chemo session that I felt able to do so. Even then an hour and a half was about the limit.
One good thing about the delay is that the paint on the crankcase cover is well and truly cured now. Scraping the paint off the bare aluminium detailing is about as time consuming as masking is. If I do this again, I think that I'll use the polish then scrape method again just because masking is more fiddly.
The paint is yet to be buffed-up so it looks a bit dull here:
The gaskets needed all the old silicone sealer removing and that's another time consuming job. I find that Wurth brake cleaner brushed onto a short section at a time, softens the sealer enough for it to be mostly wiped away with a rag but there's always some that needs to be picked off with a blade or a scraper.
I've found covers where the silicone has been applied on both sides of the gasket. The factory only applied it on the outer, flat surface. The inner channel doesn't need a sealer but there's always a few spots of impact adhesive used to keep the gasket in the channel. The first time I did this job I struggled to keep the gasket in place when offering it up until I used a few dobs of glue too.
Crankcase:
Cam cover:
They can go without buffing-up until further down the line.
The next jobs weren't too taxing. Re-fitting the starter and alternator (new cush-drive rubbers slathered in rubber paste for the alternator):
Then the upper footrest mounting bracket:
Followed by the battery tray and inner footrest mounting plates:
Tomorrow, hopefully, I'll begin re-fitting the loom(s) then the frame can be properly located so that the main footrest plates can go back on.
One good thing about the delay is that the paint on the crankcase cover is well and truly cured now. Scraping the paint off the bare aluminium detailing is about as time consuming as masking is. If I do this again, I think that I'll use the polish then scrape method again just because masking is more fiddly.
The paint is yet to be buffed-up so it looks a bit dull here:
The gaskets needed all the old silicone sealer removing and that's another time consuming job. I find that Wurth brake cleaner brushed onto a short section at a time, softens the sealer enough for it to be mostly wiped away with a rag but there's always some that needs to be picked off with a blade or a scraper.
I've found covers where the silicone has been applied on both sides of the gasket. The factory only applied it on the outer, flat surface. The inner channel doesn't need a sealer but there's always a few spots of impact adhesive used to keep the gasket in the channel. The first time I did this job I struggled to keep the gasket in place when offering it up until I used a few dobs of glue too.
Crankcase:
Cam cover:
They can go without buffing-up until further down the line.
The next jobs weren't too taxing. Re-fitting the starter and alternator (new cush-drive rubbers slathered in rubber paste for the alternator):
Then the upper footrest mounting bracket:
Followed by the battery tray and inner footrest mounting plates:
Tomorrow, hopefully, I'll begin re-fitting the loom(s) then the frame can be properly located so that the main footrest plates can go back on.
looks fantastic you can really see it coming together now 
Hi Mike,
Excellent work and very inspirational - I bought a cat C unloved R1150GS and threads like this give me inspiration to continue with restore instead of just selling/parting out. One question though - your paintwork is always top notch, are you using spray cans or actually have an air compressor setup? Where did you learn about priming/painting/coating?
Excellent work and very inspirational - I bought a cat C unloved R1150GS and threads like this give me inspiration to continue with restore instead of just selling/parting out. One question though - your paintwork is always top notch, are you using spray cans or actually have an air compressor setup? Where did you learn about priming/painting/coating?
Bump - a reminder of one of the reasons you'll be missed Mike...
Similar threads
