Knocked TPS sensor

[ianmc64]

Ok Guys had an issue whilst moving my r1100s around garage i accidentally bumped the TPS sensor of the foot peg of my other bike. didn't notice at first.. My findings where, bike seems to run smoother the idle tick over is loads better and performance does not seem to be effected..But i fear there may be something more to this.. I'm seeking advice on this one, should i move it back slightly and align the paint spots or do i keep running what seems to be a better bike. Am i causing damage elsewhere. The dreaded TPS sensor or ecu.. HELP!!!! Looking for a decent video link to testing TPS voltages any ideas...

 

[Grizzly]

Hi,
There's plenty info in this forum on TPS set up - try use various search phrases.

If it would be any help - or if you can't find the info you need on here, I must be reasonably "local" to you ( I live about 3 miles from Carnoustie in Angus ) and I have a GS911 interface - which makes setting your TPS a 10 minute job. I'm perfectly happy to set it up with the GS911, if that would help you?
PM me if you wish and we can sort something out.

Cheers.......................Grizzly

 

[ianmc64]

Thanks for the offer Grizzly, i have carefully lined up the paint marks again and reset TPS, disconnected battery etc the bike seems to be running like old self again. i think it felt better when off slightly but i don't want to tempt fate.. I'm pretty good with a volt meter but not sure about the checking for TPS values, so if bikes feels worse a trip to Angus it will be,,Thanks... much appreciated...

 

[mspenz]

Adjusting the TPS itself is easy enough but it would have been useful to know the reading before you knocked it, you can re-set it to 0.36mV using a decent digital voltmeter and you won't be far off but the GS911 would get it spot on

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Is there not a CO2 pot to be adjusted on an 1100 ?

 

[mspenz]

Is there not a CO2 pot to be adjusted on an 1100 ?

Oops, it's an 1100 not a 1150

You are indeed right..

 

[ianmc64]

Thanks Guys, assuming this has never been moved since factory set its seems to be working quite well after aligning the paint dots up again i have checked with meter and reading 0.47 v. idling well, no smell of fuel and plugs burning ok so i will ride it and see what happens.see what mpg is delivered..

 

[Nick591]

0.47v is high. Standard setting on an 1100 is 0.377V. I think your bike will be running richer than it should. Presume when you knocked it you might have leaned it off a bit which would explain the improved running? If you are OK with a DVM as you say then just adjust the TPS yourself to 0.377V? For what its worth I have one of Greek John's stage 5 chips on my 1100GS and have the TPS set to 0.366V as he recommends. In mixed riding I get 55mpg.

 

[Roger 04 RT]

Thanks Guys, assuming this has never been moved since factory set its seems to be working quite well after aligning the paint dots up again i have checked with meter and reading 0.47 v. idling well, no smell of fuel and plugs burning ok so i will ride it and see what happens.see what mpg is delivered..

Ian, The Motronic converts those millivolts to "degrees the throttle is open". It can tolerate a wide range of errors and won't affect gas mileage one way or the other. However, to get it aligned so that it reads the value your Motronic expects, assuming you have factory paint on the throttle stop screws, set it to 340 mV. You won't be tempting fate, it will work.

The way you have it set now, when your throttle is on the stops, the throttle is open 0.32 degrees. The correct millivolts for 0.32 degrees is 340 mV (not 3.66 or 3.7 or 3.8). At 470 millivolts, the Motronic initially thinks the throttle is open about 1 degree, as a result, overtime, the Motronic has to reduce fuel to get things lined up correctly. So it will work and eventually through Mixture Adaptation become correct, but you've thrown the Motronic a curve-ball.

The reason the paint looks right now is that you're only 0.7 degrees off, a tiny amount that you can't see.

Best thing to do is set it to 340, reset your Motronic by pulling fuse 5 for 5 minutes, and then key on, twist the throttle twice, key off and you're done.

 

[Trullion]

Is there not a CO2 pot to be adjusted on an 1100 ?

Not on an 1100S. Although still an 1100 the S has much in common with the 1150 bikes: 6 speed box, hydraulic clutch actuation, Motronic 2.4 etc. it's mainly the early 1100/850 UK bikes that had a CO pot (not a CO2 pot). Many 1100 and 850 oilheads had no pot.

 

[ianmc64]

Thanks for all the advice guys i think i will spend a bit of time and set it to recommended voltage.just one thing, fuse box a pain does disconnection of battery do same reset..

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Not on an 1100S. Although still an 1100 the S has much in common with the 1150 bikes: 6 speed box, hydraulic clutch actuation, Motronic 2.4 etc. it's mainly the early 1100/850 UK bikes that had a CO pot (not a CO2 pot). Many 1100 and 850 oilheads had no pot.

Thanks, I see now!

 

[ianmc64]

Ok Guys, i have done the deed. set TPS 0.34 v wasn't that bad, reset Motronic by removing fuse 1 on this model re-set throttle position and the bike seems to be running fine. I noticed a bit lower showing on the needle so adjusted the air idle screws a little now sitting around 1100 rpm. The mixture screws are sitting around 2 full turns out is this normal?.. i will give her a long blast and see how the performance has altered.. loads of great advice from very learned guys..

 

[Roger 04 RT]

Ok Guys, i have done the deed. set TPS 0.34 v wasn't that bad, reset Motronic by removing fuse 1 on this model re-set throttle position and the bike seems to be running fine. I noticed a bit lower showing on the needle so adjusted the air idle screws a little now sitting around 1100 rpm. The mixture screws are sitting around 2 full turns out is this normal?.. i will give her a long blast and see how the performance has altered.. loads of great advice from very learned guys..

Well done. Thanks for pointing out the Motronic Fuse is F1 on the R1100S.

All is normal based on what you've done. You won't notice a big difference but it's now right. The TB shafts are slightly worn on a lot of bikes. I find the most accurate setting of the TB on my 1150 is with the bike fully warmed up after a ride, and with it idling. Just be very careful (idling or not) not to short the wires you put into the connector to measure TPS voltage.

 

[ianmc64]

Cheers Roger, been there before im now a lot more careful with power on.. very complicated uncomplicated bikes eh.. now just a major task to quieten down clutch bearing sounds like a Ducati..

 

[mspenz]

Well done. Thanks for pointing out the Motronic Fuse is F1 on the R1100S.

All is normal based on what you've done. You won't notice a big difference but it's now right. The TB shafts are slightly worn on a lot of bikes. I find the most accurate setting of the TB on my 1150 is with the bike fully warmed up after a ride, and with it idling. Just be very careful (idling or not) not to short the wires you put into the connector to measure TPS voltage.

I'm a bit confused about setting TPS with the engine running and at operating temperature Roger? As you know I have recently reset to zero=250 which was done on a cold engine and also set TPS to 0.35v, settings will obviously alter when the engine warms up but is it not relative to the initial set up, or should I have attempted zero=250 with a warm/hot engine

Or...is it just the perfectionist in you

Sorry for jumping into your Thread Ian and I'm glad that you got it sorted out, I know feck all about 1100s but are you absolutely sure that your noise is coming from the clutch?

Cheers,

Mike.

 

[ianmc64]

Thats ok mike, thats what this is all about. i have just got into BMs i have an R1150 gs and R1100s totally different bikes but enjoying the task..almost a year and i still know feck all. oh i set the TPS when bike was cold with ignition on only.. The clutch thing on the 1100 goes away when i put strain on the lever so i hope so..

 

[Roger 04 RT]

I'm a bit confused about setting TPS with the engine running and at operating temperature Roger? As you know I have recently reset to zero=250 which was done on a cold engine and also set TPS to 0.35v, settings will obviously alter when the engine warms up but is it not relative to the initial set up, or should I have attempted zero=250 with a warm/hot engine

Or...is it just the perfectionist in you

Sorry for jumping into your Thread Ian and I'm glad that you got it sorted out, I know feck all about 1100s but are you absolutely sure that your noise is coming from the clutch?

Cheers,

Mike.

Hi Mike, It is a bit the perfectionist in me but also, we're trying to replace a factory procedure, which is using specialized equipment, with an on-bike in-the-field procedure, so you need to be precise. BTW I'm not a fan of using z=250 if you have blue paint on the throttle stops and if no one has messed with the TB stop screws, best to leave them as calibrated at the factory.

The first part of zero=250 is getting the throttle plate opened a precise, small amount, using the TPS as a gauge. That can be done on a cold engine, not operating. So your procedure worked out fine. As long as you keep the process consistent (the throttle plate firmly against the throttle stop), you will rotate it open 90 mV, which is about 0.4 degrees.

The second part of getting the TPS aligned involves setting it to a voltage that the Motronic recognizes as in the center of 0.32 degrees, which by measurement seems to run from 310 mV to 370 mV. From experience, you can get it close on an engine that's not running but intake vacuum seems to pull it in just a bit more. So if you want it to read 340mV when you're done it sometimes needs to be a bit higher on a not-running motor.

The third part when you balance idle, need to be on a 90C or hotter engine according to the BMW Repair Manual. That is because idle speed increases as the engine warms up.

 

[ianmc64]

Roger the 1100 seems to be running very well took her for a long run and didn't stutter once, however did notice a rise in tick over when bike got quite hot jumped to around 1300 rpm so just set back slightly and all seems well. thanks for advice.

 

[mspenz]

Thank's again Roger, excellent information provided for those of us who have had to reset to 'factory' for whatever reason.

Ian, if you are technically minded then do a search for some of Rogers previous posts on this topic and others similar but be prepared as the amount of technical information can/will make your head hurt..but in a good way