18th September 2023
I wake to the alarm feeling well rested - I load the bike, avoiding the security tukey...
...and I'm setting off on the I80 south at 0835...
It's a beautiful morning, but I've (obviously) hit rush hour. That said, traffic moves at a good pace and the miles start clicking down. My plan is to do 100 miles or so, which will get me off the freeway, then stop for fuel and something to eat...
Quite abruptly, the traffic slows to a crawl. In California, you are allowed to filter (called lane splitting here), so I do so, for about seven miles. At the head of the tailback I find...
...that the lane closure has been due to the road being swept. During rush hour. On a two-lane road...
Two CHP vehicles are supervising this...
Onward. The land around here is heavily cultivated - vineyards here...
...but, when I get off the freeway, orchards that stretch for miles. They have buried irrigation systems that you can see water misting from near every tree...
It's a beautiful morning, and I maintain about 60mph through the 55 limit...
I spot this crop duster being refilled with chemicals - does anyone want to guess the make and model?
Palm trees - I must be on holiday!
The landscape changes - this prairie is presumably what it would all look like without irrigation...
I climb into some hill country - very pleasant with long sweeping bends. The temperature is just perfect - around 75F...
At just under 100 miles, I turn off into the unlikely-sounding town of Copperopolis, to fill up with fuel. Having filled up, I swing my leg over the saddle to pull the bike upright, when - with a loud CRACK - the side stand snaps and the bike falls to its left...
Well, shit...
Regular readers will recall that I had the stand bend last year, and had a welder repair it by inserting a steel rod through the centre of it...
I'm aided in getting the bike upright by a chap at another pump. I put it on its main stand and examine the damage - which thankfully seems to be limited to a scuff on the crash bar.
I wander over to Copper's Java House for an unmemorable iced tea and an apple Danish.
OK - this is a snag. The Adv fully laden is enormous - and
all my 20 years riding on one has involved me using the side stand, even when taking it on and off the centre stand. To pivot on one leg whilst holding the bike up is quite a manouevre, and one I am not relishing.
I manage to get back on and continue my route toward Yosemite, and my hotel, which is over 180 miles distant...
The countryside is
very pretty, and traffic is virtually non-existent. I should be feeling brilliant.
But I'm not.
I'm feeling lousy.
Confession time.
For the previous several weeks I have been diagnosed as suffering from anxiety. It's something completely new to me - although the number of people I have met since my diagnosis who are or have been suffering amazed me.
I thought that this trip - doing something that I enjoyed, and was familiar to me, might be what I needed to get myself back to 'normal' (or as normal as I ever was).
But I haven't enjoyed any of it. The stress of getting on the road the morning after I arrived was silly - but, in fairness, was planned before I started getting this illness. But every day I have been on the bike, I have just wanted it to be over. There's a large part of me that wishes I was back home in surroundings I'm completely comfortable with.
The idea that I may have to ride the rest of the trip without a side stand has - I fear - been the final straw.
I ride on, feeling miserable and considering various options for the rest of my time in the USA...
Still - always time for a bridge, eh?
I start a steady climb into the foothills of the Sierras - beautiful country...
The road is cut into the side of the hills and we gain altitude surprisingly quickly...
Traffic is light and I'm able to keep a reasonable speed up...
I arrive at the entrance to Yosemite National Park, where Ranger Kim sells me an annual parks pass for $80...
Were I a US citizen, being over 65, I would be entitled to a
lifetime pass for the same price...
A bargain either way. Entrance here is $35 - and I will hopefully make use of it a few more times in the next 12 months...
Jorge has a saying, "Yosemite has a way of making your camera work better" - and he's right.
Unfortunately, it's pretty hazy today, so the pics won't be the best. It's absolutely beautiful...
It's not too busy (it would have been a zoo at the weekend), and the speed limit is a not-unreasonable 45...
I slowly make my way down to the valley floor - El Capitan looks magnificent...
It's not hard to see what draws people here - nature at its finest...
I start the climb out of the valley and towards Tioga Pass, still some 40 miles away...
I desperately need to stretch my legs - I've been sat down on the bike for hours...
I pull into a layby and - carefully - swing my right leg over the bike. All was going well, until the cuff of my jeans caught (ironically) on the broken side stand I had strapped to the tail pack, I lost my balance and the bike went over...
Before I could do anything, a motorist who was passing and had seen what happened, stopped and helped me get the bike upright and on the centre stand. He waved off my thanks and - once sure I didn't need further help - carried on with his journey.
I sat on a log and stared at the bike for a
long time.
I hear a twig snap and look around to see a local seeing what the noise was. She stood there for a bit, then scampered up the hill opposite.
I still have a long way to ride. My confidence to get the bike off the stand and get on it has deserted me. In fact, I feel very shaky. I decide to swallow my pride and flag down the next motorcyclist I see and get them to 'spot' me whilst I do it.
Salvation arrives in the delightful form of Dylan and Ellena, who stop immediately and don't bat an eyelid at helping. I'm on the bike in a couple of seconds and they are continuing their journey into the park. Lovely couple...
I continue towards Tioga Pass...
There are some healthy-looking cumulus clouds forming in that direction...
I wonder if I might see some rain...
I exit the park - a reasonable queue to get in this late in the day...
...and ride to Tioga Pass...
...the scale of which is dramatic...
Soon I'm approaching the bottom...
...and pulling into the Mobil Service Station there - which is an oddity, in that it houses a superb cafe...
I co-opt a couple of chaps to spot me getting off the bike and putting it on its stand to refuel...
Then enter the cafe. Jorge has advised me what to order - Fish Tacos...
They're delicious - I wash them down with some Sprite.
Co-opting another kind chap to spot me getting the bike off the stand, I'm off and running towards Tonopah, some 150 miles away...
The road is good and twisty to begin with, as it negotiates some low hills...
...but soon becomes flat straight desert scrub...
I turn left at Benton junction...
...and start my way north. No one does straight, lonely desert roads like Nevada does...
There are some textbook Cumulo Nimbus anvil-shaped clouds to the northwest - someone is going to get a soaking.
I arrive at my motel in Tonapah at about 1830. I manage to get a chap to spot me to not only park the bike but then re-park it outside my room.
I feel completely exhausted.
I unload the bike, turn the AC to Pluto, then upload the (190) pics from today.
After a breather, Jorge and I have a chat over Facetime. He's ordered a replacement part off eBay (from Hawaii!), but he's more concerned about my mental state at the moment - as am I.
I extend my stay here for a further two nights. I need to sleep and do some serious thinking...