Last minute Outer Hebrides trip

Mike_E

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First trip report for me!

This is not normally the sort of thing I would... but over the last year or so during times of being stuck at home unable to travel, being able to log onto the site and read the trip reports of other members and thus allowing me to travel vicariously through their reports has really been enjoyable and something I've looked forwards too on many occasions over the last 12 months. Hopefully this thread provides some level of minor entertainment or motivation to a fellow member or two.

I recently got back into biking after a break of 15 years or so - I grew up racing MX and then got into sportsbikes once I got my license whilst I was back home in Aus, but moving overseas at 24years old disrupted this. Apart from renting bikes every few years for a week at a time to go to a few TT's I've been bikeless! Fast forwards to October 2024 and after jacking in my job and taking a career break i thought it was perfect timing to get back into bikes... and the GSA was purchased. A 6 month old bike (BMW staff management bike) was purchased with 500miles on the clock with the aim of getting across to Europe in 2025. This was to provide the tonic I needed to unwind and escape a toxic management culture in my previous job and remind myself of really what is important, and to do things that genuinely provide you with happiness.

I had done a 4 week trip with the missus around France and the Alps back in 2011 in my old Caterham 7, which was a truly epic trip... but even then when we were seeing the bikes on the alpine passes in the Alps I had a pang of jealousy. I really wanted to go back for a 2 week trip and relive some of the great roads and memories. Unfortunately due to elderly family sickness and ongoing treatments etc I could not plan or commit to getting away - throw in some ad-hoc consultancy work which took me away to Africa for 3 weeks at a time and suddenly it was the end of August. How on earth did that happen?!?!?! I had a chat with the missus and spotted a 6 day window of opportunity the following week. She was off to the borders to help her Mum through some big appointments and I was at home alone. Decision made! I was off.... but no idea where!

Being based in Aberdeenshire, given the available window of opportunity it rapidly narrowed down to being UK based. I've done the north west coast a lot (pre NC500 when it was gorgeous and quite) so I was not keen to go that way again with the swarms of campervans... so possibly a shetland/orkney/westcoast loop? The long ferry to Shetland with the high winds forecast for the upcoming week was not ideal so I parked that as a backup. I'd done Lewis and Harris before but never the southern outer hebrides, and in a turn of fate a friend who has a croft on North Uist got in touch out of the blue on the same day I was starting to plan. It was a sign!

So I borrowed a mates tent (4 season mountaineering tent - wise decision as you'll see later) and a camp mat, packed the trangia and the sleeping bag and booked a ticked from Oban to Barra! Time for the off!
 
Day 1 - Friday 5th Sept - Transit and Ferry

I have always done my holidays fully planned out - every days accommodation and rough itinerary worked it months in advance. I had a different plan for this trip - wing it. Well sorta ... I had a ticket to get to Barra and one to get to Eriskay but that was it.

I'd plotted my route from Aberdeenshire down to Oban using MRA, taking in the A93 snow road over Glenshee and down the side of Loch Tay before cutting across to Oban. Not a bad batch of roads... estimated duration 3hrs 20min, add in a few stops for a brew and call it 4hrs. So I was pretty much all packed the night before and all I had to do was get the panniers on, do some last minute bits around the house and get on the road. Ferry check-in closed at 12:25 so I planned to head off at 8am which gave heaps of fat in the schedule. I'd managed to squeeze everything I needed for the 6 days camping into the panniers - including 2 sleep mats, a jet boil and a trangia. Can't beat options and I love my food!

So I was up at 6am raring to go - excited like a kid on Christmas morning! A leisurely load up, gear on and I fired up MRA on the Carpuride and started the Navigation.

1st hurdle - ETA Oban of 12:30. WT absolute F?!!? 1hr more than it showed when I plotted it on the PC the night before? Not entirely sure of what was going on (seen it once before when I've used MRA) but I thought this was the beauty of the cloud based system of using MRA on the PC and MRA on the phone that these sorts of hiccups cannot happen. Need to examine that more later. This is exactly the scenario I HATE ... racing the sat nav. A recipe for disaster. Well, no time for a pee break on route so I got a wiggle on with focus at 10/10.

A beautiful sunny and uneventful ride down to Oban (after getting fuel in Ballater) and I arrived at 12:15. Phew. I spent most of the trip down grinning and soakign up the rays and happy that it was finally happening. On the road, freedom and anticipation of what I was to discover over the next 6 days. Unfortunately no photos of the ride down given the lack of stops but I was selfish and prioritized getting on the Ferry rather than snapping some "trip write up candy" on route. Apologies fellow tossers!

I met a fellow biker in the queue for the ferry - Sam. He was on a NX750 loaded up and we started chatting... realized we were on a similar itinerary. It was a slightly lumpy crossing - the wind was up at 25mph and rising to 35, with the weather for the next day (Saturday) now looking decided ropey. 24hr period over 45mph with peaks of 56mph. :oops: It's quite a long crossing - 4.5hrs but it went remarkably quickly once your chatting away to a new acquaintance with hobbies in common.

So after a quick arrival and a goodbye to Sam (we'd swapped numbers in case we wanted to catch up for a pint or had mechanical issues etc) i was onto Barra! I had wanted to see Barra for years after I worked with a guy from there back in 2010. Quick stop at the Coopy for some supplies essentials (cooked chicken to put with dinner and beers) I made my way up to the north of the Island (all of 10min ride) to "Barra Sands Campsite". A very freindly welcome, and given its later in the season it was not too busy so I got a pitch inside one of the wind breaks on the site. Its a simple site - toilets, showers, a sink and a small fridge. £10/night. Perfect.

I got set up no bother - had a good student food meal of chicken, pasta and pesto, a few beers and a few chapters of my book and it was lights out. Day 1 success.
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Well written interesting read.........more please
 
This is timely, we're booked on the Oban to Barra ferry this Saturday. Heading up from Preston on Saturday.
Then working our way up to Lewis.
Watch out for 2 VanVans 😁
Mark.
 
Sounds a great trip. Have a good one 👍
 
Great so far Mike. Please keep it coming. I’ve not yet been to Barra, I’ve visited Harris, Lewis and Eigg so Bara awaits.
 
I've always fancied flying to Barra and landing on the Beach.
I did that a while back, landed on Solus North Uist, another of the beaches safe to land on.
Had to give the plane a good rinse when we got home to get the salt and sand off.
The outer isles are great, weather changeable but given their location that’s to be expected. If you can cope with that then the highlight is countryside and the people.
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I've been to some of the Inner Isles Islay, Jura, Mull and Skye (even before the bridge) over the years. But the outer Isles are still a delight to be experienced. (y)

Great Photo!
 
Should be off to S Uist for fishing trip next month....sea trout and salmon.
But my favourite time is May, for trout in the machair lochs, when all the waders that have become so rare in mainland UK are there in abundance....curlew, peasies etc etc. The birdsong is sublime! Add in corncrakes.. ...!
 
Day 2 - Saturday 6th - Explore Barra


Explore might have been a bit extravagant for an island that is 7 miles across and about 10 long! Not a bad nights kip considering it was night 1 and I was up and about and packed up soon enough. I really wanted to see the planes landing on the beach at Barra. For those that do not know the airport "runway" is the beach and the control tower looks like a seaside restaurant. I'm not sure why I was so keen to see it as I'm not interested in planes or anything but it just piqued my interest and a plane was due in at ~11am - that was my only real plan for the day!


I had checked the weather and the forecast for Saturday and Sunday just as I was leaving the campsite and it had deteriorated! It looked horrendous, 60mph forecast for 3pm Saturday. I looked at the Calmac ferry app and the last ferry of the day was already cancelled and there was warnings for the ferry I was planning on, and the one earlier! I was aiming for the ~4pm ferry which would have given me a leisurely day on Barra and Vattersay... but if I got stranded I was going to be there until Monday at best. Shizer. Do I "wing it" and hope for the best, or try and bail off the island ASAP. I don't mind getting stuck for a few days but thought if I'm going to get stuck then being on South Uist/Benbecula/North Uist would be a much better option because they are linked by causeways... and as nice as Barra is, man its small... but I really wanted to see this damn plane land on the beach!


To cut the suspense I wimped out and went straight to the ferry terminal at half 10 - hoping to squeeze onto the 11am sailing as a standby. There were already 5 cars and 2 bikes in front of me... hmmm. Odds not looking good. Sam also arrived 10min after me after also reviewing the forecast and the options and he came to the same conclusion. The ferry arrived and we were waiting to see if we could fit on... and I saw the plane lining up for its approach! you can see the runway from the ferry terminal.... and just as it was about 100ft up I got waved onto the ferry. I missed it landing. Dammit.... no hang on that's a win... is it? I'm on the ferry! The later ferry did run as I learned later (they ran it earlier than planned) so I would have been OK but hindsight is 20/20. At least I've left something to go back for as this is a sort of recce mission - if its good then the missus and I will come across and give it another go.


So we got onto Eriskay and both Sam and I had planned to Stay on Benbecula (at Otters edge campsite). Its in the middle of North and South Uist so a good base to explore all of the islands and given the south easterly wind forecast it should be sheltered... well, a bit... sorta. In theory. Or not....................


We had a really warm welcome from team, and again this was a small campsite with a lovely feel to it. More facilities here than the last place with a campers kitchen with a microwave, a grill, fridge and lots of seating. We got the tents up ASAP before the winds really picked up (it was already ~30mph) and then Sam and I headed off for an explore around South Uist. There is a new distillery and what a cracking building. The architecture and interior design is first rate - and the building mimics the lighthouse on the nearby Monach islands just offshore. We had some minuscule tastings as we were on the bikes - the whisky is a blend at the moment of other distilleries from the Outer Hebrides but the taste is what they are aiming to produce themselves in the future. They have only been open 1.5years so can't sell whisky yet. It was OK but it was a little young and fiery in my opinion(and Sams!). The gin on the other hand was amazing but they had no bottles for sale until Monday.

We then basically had a poke about the Island, taking a trip down any likely looking road and seeing what happened. The wind was picking up by now and it was making for some interesting riding... looked like we had both had a "crofters dram"
worth at the tasting as we were blown about all over the show. doing 65mph into a 60mph head wind results in a bloody lot of noise... whaaa??? Cant hear you.

On the way up on leaving the ferry I'd seen a large statue on the hill so we stopped and had a look as we went passed again- short but steep walk up the hill only to find the path up the hill is a road and there is a turning area at the top! If anyone is going, just take the bike up! Its called "our lady of the isles" - information plaque missing but a subsequent google reveals she's holding the baby Jesus. In any case - a fine view and in good weather it would be amazing.

We headed back to the campsite for a beer and to get turned around. The wind had picked up and I lashed the GS to a wooden pole in case it got blown over... it was fierce and forecast to get worse! We then headed out to the "DI" as its called on the island.. the "Dark Island Hotel" which is 500m from the campsite. Food was good, reasonably pricey though but it had a cracking whisky selection! this could have been our undoing but we resisted and only had 1 nip.

By this stage it was absolutely howling.... some of the tents were really struggling and there were two MSR tents which looked near to collapse. I was in a 4 season mountain tent which was stood strong, shrugging it off like it was a walk in the park (Wild Country Trisar 2D). I guess there is a reason my tent is 3.5kg and the MSR's are under 2! When i borrowed the tent I was told it was inner pitch first which I was worried about, but in this howling wind it was a godsend as the inner is so taught and its so quiet. Top tip - whatever time of year if you're camping on the Outer Hebrides bring a strong tent.

The rain started about 11 and did not let up for ours but I had a good kip. I find nothing more soothing than being tucked up warm in your sleeping bag and listening to the rain on the tent. Despite the inclement weather, another good day.

Success!! or failure... ?
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Benbecula Distillery
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Our Lady of the Isles
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Safety first..... note the lashing to the post!
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edit - typos
 
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oh I forgot to add.... funny story. Sam was at Borve campsite on the Friday night and had prepared a dinner for himself on the stove with some canned Tuna... he put all his rubbish in a bag in his tent vestibule and crashed out for the night. He was awoken in the early hours but a rustling noise right outside his tent so he got up and unzipped the tent to see what was going on... to see an Otter scarpering away across the campsite at top speed!

how cool is that. Your camp getting raided by Otters in the wee hours!
 
Day 3 - Survival!

When I was having breakfast in the campers kitchen the site owner told me the local airport (just a few miles up the road) logged 48mph overnight... which felt about right based on how it sounded during the night but today was meant to be worse! With the lowest forecast wind speed for Sunday at 43mph, and peaking at just under 60 at 3pm along with some rain, I was not anticipating a great day. Potentially just hunkering down at the campsite which is once of the reasons I wanted to get off Barra to a better equipped campsite.

Sam was off today heading for his ferry from Berneray to Harris - so we said our goodbyes and parted company. I had plotted a route around Benbecula and northern parts of South Uist - basically riding every road on the island, to every dead end peninsula just to see what was about.

As I pottered about the Island by overwhelming feeling (apart from would that bloody wind die down FFS) was that its like going back in time, and living at a fraction of the pace of the mainland. And its so much better for it. Seeing the peat being cut and smelling the aroma of its being burned in these small remote cottages, seeing how connected the islanders are with the ocean, almost everyone has a small rib and some lobster pots. No one is in a rush, and everyone waves to each other. Not just as a thanks for letting them pass (its almost all single track roads with passing places) but even just passing another car deserves a wave. I found myself just pootling about at 35mph - to ride about any faster or to be in any kind rush felt like an insult to the Island and the locals.

I spotted a war memorial at the north end of the island so I stopped to pay my respects as I often do. Although not of a military background, I have an affinity and great respect for those that have served and find a lot of my good friends are invariably ex-forces. Seeing the names of the men lost in the 1st world war was incredibly sobering, the same surnames keep appearing. Brothers, fathers, uncles, cousins. On an island this small, with the population at the time of the 1st world war it must have been absolutely catastrophic with whole parts of certain families lost.

It was heading for 3pm and it was getting to the point that it was not enjoyable to be wrestling the GSA against the wind so I went past the Coopy again for supplies essentials (ie beer...) and then headed for the campsite. One MSR tent was flattened.... but the owner parked his car in front as a windbreak until the occupants in a very nice 110 landy got back. I'd seen these guys on Barra and we were criss-crossing paths along the way.

A good evening in the campers kitchen with the Trangia, chatting to the couple in the 110, the site owner and some other visitors made for a great evening. There are some very interesting people out there doing some great things and improving a lot of people lives.

10pm came and I retired to tent (the "limpet" as I named it) after a few folks commented on how well it was taking the weather. The wind was due to "ease" but rain was forecast.

Given the weather during the day I'd call that a success again! Happy days.
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worlds most remote post box???
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edit - typo
 
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Day 4 - Monday 8th - North Uist and Crofting time

Another good nights sleep and I was up reasonably early for a biggish day. I'd spent a bit of time the last afternoon plotting out a route around the entire North Uist, again taking in every road and peninsula to explore what was on offer.

A friendly breakfast with my fellow campers was nice - although my porridge was a poor relation to these which I witnessed being cooked up...

1) Scallops and black pudding
2) Black pudding and bacon baps/rolls/buns depending on your geographic location :)
3) Bacon, sausage, black pudding and eggs and fried bread

When the weather is bad then these communal areas for the campers come into their own. That said I could not take the enticing aromas anymore so I had to go and pack up the tent!

I said my goodbyes and as I set off I saw something odd, took me a while to figure out what was going on but I got there after a few minutes. It was the SUN!!!! still blowing a hooley though.

I had a lovely lap of North Uist - again pottering about but at least I had the sun and in the sheltered bays it was absolutely beautiful. Saw some young staggies out near Cheesebay (first red's I'd seen on the Isles) and then I went up to East Bay on Berneray. This is a stunning place and has a large grassed area for camping. No facilities but popular with the campervan crew. I stopped to take it in and have a brew so got the jetboil out and laid on the grass. Shame it was a southerly wind, if it were more from the west it could be reasonably sheltered. Still a stunning place and worth a visit regardless of weather!

I continued my route and needed to pop back to the distillery on Benbecula to collect a bottle of the gin which had arrived in at lunchtime (gift for my host for the evening) so after that I headed for Paibles (west coast of the Island) where my friends Dad has a croft. I passed a smoke house so pulled in and had a look and could not resist the local hand dived scallops which were then mild hot smoked over peat. Hellish expensive - worth it! Took a pack of them and then when I came out to the bike a cyclist was wanting to chat. He had a GSA1250 as well, also in Tipple black! He also (still - unlike me) had a Caterham. Lots to chat about. He was cycling the Hebridean Way which does seem very popular as there are a lot of cyclists about.

I arrived at 4pm at my digs for the evening, must warmer and quieter than the tent! John took us for a good tour of the croft and was showing me how he harvests the seaweed from their beach to use as fertiliser on the Machair - the coastal grassy fields which are an extremely rare habitat. The sand which contains a lot of shell grit is alkaline, so the pH of the soil is about 8.5. This promotes the variety of gasses and wild flowers that grow here. the pH on east of the island is 4.5! Heather and that is about all that grows over there. The management of the Machair is strictly controlled with cyclical harvest to allow the flowers to seed every 2 years and maintain the flora diversity. The crofters communal grazing is also interesting and he explained exactly how that worked.

We'd hoped to take the RHIB out to get some lobsters but the weather was not playing ball so that was skipped unfortunately. We retired for a shepherds pie made from their own Hebridean lamb and home grown potatoes and a good blether with a glass or two of red before turning in.

A small Island - but very diverse from one side to the other. I also did 115miles that day.. considering its an island 15 miles long and about the same wide I thought that was a good shift!

Teanamachar Beach
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Road to cheesebay - staggies in the background
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East Beach Berneray
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Watch out for the locals....
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